128 Items, or: What I Gave Away

Last October, after a crazy, compulsive summer, I started to tally what was coming in and out of my closet, hoping that data would help me understand my habits. Using Daytum, I made a notation every time something left my wardrobe and where it went.

This doesn't include purging earlier in the year, nor the plethora of unworn me-mades that have been stashed elsewhere. But if the average American buys 60 items of clothing a year, than I purged more than two years worth of stuff.

In that same time, I gained 23 items. Besides thrifted items, I bought socks and stockings, a pair of boots, and hand-me-downs. 

In terms of handmade goods, I sewed nine and knit four things for myself.

Comparatively, I think I did really well: 36 things came in, 128 out. And the numbers aren't perfect, of those 36, several were sewing wadders or bad-thrift-decisions that were re-donated.

Why on earth does this matter?

I think, in a general sense, many women I know struggle with both limiting how much they accrue and letting go. I certainly do. All the while, psychologists tell us that we actually make better choices and feel better about the choices we've made the narrower our options are.

On a more personal level, this represents my growing ability to be selective about what's in my closet. Last year, Colette Patterns asked what our ideal wardrobe would look like. Referring to her own ideal wardrobe, Sarai says, "There wouldn’t be a ton of clothes, just a well edited and lovely selection. If I could sew a brand new ideal wardrobe from scratch, that’s exactly what I would make."

By massively slimming down my closet, I'm getting closer to an edited selection. I gave away cashmere sweaters and silk blouses, vintage dresses and things I bought just the month before. For some reason or another, they just didn't work.

What's left is the 20 percent of things I actually wear, plus a few things I'm trying to make more useful.  

My closet: All my tops, dresses, pants, pullovers and cardigans. My fabric stash above has—eek—43 pieces.

I'll admit it's less fun than my previous closest, but I know everything fits and flatters, and if not, I now have the discipline to donate it. At last count, I have 56 items in my closet, 25 percent of which is handmade and half of which is second-hand. That includes summer and winter wear, but not things like underwear, pajamas and slips. Since these photos, I've pruned a tad more.

With the pants folded away and the non-season items removed. My daily selection. So much easier to deal with.

For some, this wardrobe will still be abundant. For others, paltry. All I know is this: I feel better.
 
Most importantly, I'm not filled with guilt about everything I don't wear. The less I have, the easier I can understand what it is I actually like and what I actually need. 

This is the irony of it all: The less I have, the larger the possibilities. I'm discovering new combinations of clothes, repairing the ones I'm committed to, and dreaming of a few lovely pieces that will augment the basic wardrobe I've got. Of all the things I can imagine adding, some will be beautiful and some will be basic, but so help me, they'll all be me.

So this is the first (big) step toward my ideal wardrobe. What does your ideal wardrobe look like?

Julie Does Lola (Victory Patterns)

Thanks for all your comments on my Lola dress! I mentioned in a previous post that I was sewing it with my sister-in-law.

Julie moved to the area recently and she made a lovely A-line navy skirt (with lining!) in the fall as her first project and she tackled the Lola as her second project. Talk about cajones, this is an intermediate pattern! And she did a great job. :)

This is a purple heathered knit without much stretch. Like me, Julie used her sewing machine to construct the dress and a serger to finish the edges.

I wanted to share this with you because 1) She deserves a shout out because she diligently traced and fit and made this dress with far more quality than I would have as a beginner, no "homemade" feel to it at all, and 2) This Lola has a different shape from my own. This is what I love about sewing: we're all so unique in our body shapes and make different choices along the way.
  

The boy took a Hipstaprint.

Julie's about my height, but her body is the hourglass to my rectangle. While I didn't shorten mine, she took hers up two inches and the length looks perfect. The biggest change, though, has to do with the hem and the cuffs. Some of you were interested in what the dress would look like without that tight-sweatshirt hem and here it is! Still all the comfort and great detail, but a different silhouette altogether. With a wider hem, I suspect the dress doesn't ride up as much and may be easier to pair with cardigans, etc.

I also saw a red version of the Lola on Sew Weekly.

In other sewing news, I've been working on a Colette Negroni for the boy—slow going (could it be that I spend all my time longing for projects to make for myself??). I've also been thinking about all my lessons from Fashion on the Ration and blogging—some personal style posts on the horizon and I promise, some sewing :)

Happy sewing!

Lucky #37! Sewaholic Renfrew Winner

Thanks to all of you who entered the Sewaholic Renfrew giveaway! The random number generator picked #37.

By my count, that's mike and lisa. Congratulations!

For those who still want to get their hands on a Renfrew, Sunni of A Fashionable Stitch is running a giveaway kit that ends today!

Happy Aloha Friday!

Whatever Lola Wants... (Victory Patterns)

 

... Lola gets! Santa arrived in the form of my mother-in-law and so I got the Victory Patterns Lola, Chloe and Anouk patterns for Christmas.

With colored tights!

I just love the Lola dress. I tend toward sporty and simple pieces, and the Lola provides that but with amazing details.

With jumper, scarf, tights and converse.

Stylish. Comfortable. Leggy. Flirty.

Now I hate putting PDF patterns together, especially for large projects, but this was worth it. It took me one sitting to put the pattern together, one to trace the pattern, one to cut the fabric and two to sew. Much more time intensive than your average knit dress project, but I'm trying to slow down my making and I've been complimented every time I wear it.

My favorite: I was walking past a group of kids on the library steps and one young girl, likely 10 or 11, announced to her friends, "I wanna, I wanna, I wanna wear a dress that short! A dress like that!" It's definitely got some leg to it! :)

Pattern: Victory Patterns Lola Dress

Fabric Used: Charcoal gray knit in the stash, likely rayon/lycra. Instead of ribbing, used self-fabric for the hem, neckline and cuffs.

Size: Straight 4, based on my bust measurement. Figured there was enough ease in the waist instead of grading up to a 6 there.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Using my helpful dress form, I shortened the rear upper back piece to address my sway back and I slashed and stretch the lower front center piece until it hung correctly over a full tummy.

Instructions: Good. It reminded me a lot of putting together the Colette Rooibos — lots of little pieces, but really more time than skill intensive. Helpful photos along the way.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
This is really a fantastic pattern — there’s great attention to detail so it looks more complicated than it is. It really strikes that balance between easy comfort and stylish details. I like: the sporty triangle decal at the neckline, the princess seams to give great shape, the curved waist line from front to back, the big, bucket pockets (which are cut larger than the pattern piece it lays atop, fyi).

A few things worth mentioning:

-The pattern says this is made for a woman 5’6” to 5’9” but I’m so glad that I didn’t shorten it for my 5’3” frame. It falls about 3-4 inches above my knee as it is.

-The sleeve falls right below my elbow but the cuff is a bit tight and it tends to wander up. In another version I may lengthen the sleeve an inch or two and/or widen the cuff.

-Since this is a reimagination of a sweatshirt, the cuffs and hem are much smaller than the pieces they finish, causing the dress to pull in. I’m not sure if it’s because I used self-fabric rather than ribbing, but stretching evenly (without causing major puckers) was a bit difficult. I had to do the hem and neckline twice, and I’m still not satisfied with the neckline. Like the cuffs I may widen the hem in another incarnation, so it still pulls in but not as tightly.

-My serger hated the triangle decal, kept trying to eat the wee bit of fabric. I ended up drawing the shape on a piece of larger fabric and serging along the edges. 

With cardigan, leggings and converse.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Absolutely. There’s so much potential in this pattern. You can make it as is for a great casual dress, but you could also leave off the triangle decal and hemband (or widen it to the same width of the actual hem) for a really lovely knit dress with waist shaping (think: a gorgeous color or print). You could even leave off the pockets to streamline the shape or shorten the sleeves for a more summery look.

Speaking of knits, don't forget, it's your last day to enter the Sewaholic Renfrew giveaway—click here!

Happy sewing!

Giveaway: Sewaholic Renfrew -- 'Cause Your Sewing Deserves It

Hello, all! As I've mentioned before, I was a pattern tester for the brand, spanking new Sewaholic Renfrew pattern, a knit top pattern with three interchangeable necklines and sleeve lengths for a total of nine different tops. As I've said in my previous post, it's the pattern that keeps on giving.

More often than not, when sewing knits comes up, other sewers will say that either that 1) they're afraid of sewing knits, or 2) that they hate sewing knits, based on some previous bad experience.

But I think sewing knits is so liberating, an incredible part of sewing know-how. More than half of my wardrobe is knit and I suspect we all have a few knits on hand because they're comfortable, forgiving and versatile. Why not spend some time sewing knits for yourself? An added bonus: They whip up in no time, a real treat between long or hard sewing projects.

So I'd like to give this pattern away and share my love of sewing knits. I know many of you clever gals have already snapped one up in the pre-sale, but if not, here's the info:

To enter: Simply leave a comment with your email address. If you'd like to share, I'd love to to hear how you might use the pattern as I think it's so versatile (and could even be easily lengthened into a tunic or dress!).

The giveaway closes at the end of Wednesday, February 8. Will ship worldwide.

Good luck!

In closing, here's some Renfrew inspiration: Amy of Sew Well made the Renfrew four times! And I just love anything very purple person makes, and her Renfrews are lovely. Plus many more are floating around the blogosphere. :)

Meet Luisa, my new assistant!

Thank you all for your helpful comments on dress forms. I ended up snatching up a cheap one off of Craigslist and I can already tell you that I love it, love it. It's like having an extra set of hands, which as we know in sewing, is invaluable.

You see Luisa's sporting a little dress. I whipped up her dress using my bodice sloper (with bust and waist darts) and favorite skirt pattern (6 panel skirt) and had the boy pin the seams in until I couldn't breathe. The idea was to have a second skin that fit my body perfectly. I then took the second skin, dressed Luisa with it and stuffed her a bit.

Remember by swayback? (The croqui doesn't lie!)

Here it is represented on Luisa:

It's not perfect, especially in the rear, but immensely helpful, and the measurements match up with mine.  With this second skin, I can see where the shortened rear waist and slightly forward shoulder is. I can also pin pattern pieces to the front tummy bump and slash the stretch the pattern piece until it hangs correctly.

These are the two ways I can already foresee using this for each sewing project:

1. Using Luisa as a model to tissue fit major issues before I cut fabric (small bust, forward shoulder, sway back, full tummy)
2. To display my progress as I work out problems in my head.

To the latter point, I think I sometimes either rush through projects because I'm tired of them being stashed away in pieces OR I see problems that might not really be present (i.e. is the garment pulling to the right or is it just the way I'm standing and looking over my shoulder to the mirror?). This way, I can slow down a bit. Check in on my progress and not be hasty.

There are other uses of course: pinning pieces together and marking hems. But I'm delighted! And look at this great fabric (snatched at the thrift store a few months ago!). How very meta. Luisa's got a sense of humor.

And yes, in the tradition of sewists naming their forms, I've obviously dubbed her Luisa. I've always loved the name and the boy's middle name is Luis.

He's usually the one that helps me pin and fit garments that are difficult for me to do solo, because he'd kind and wants to help. But we both end up getting all puffy about it as I'm completely overbearing: Are you doing it right? My natural waist, I said. How much ease are you leaving me?? And he's like, "What's ease?" Poor thing. 

Enter Luisa, bless her heart.

I've finished the Victory Pattern Lola, you'll meet her soon, too :)

Happy sewing xo

Fashion on the Ration: A Year of Lessons

Last week marked the end of my Fashion on the Ration challenge, one year of living on the 1941 clothing ration in the UK, inspired by blogger Susannah of Cargo Cult Craft. I had 66 “coupons” to spend on new garments and had to thrift, sew or mend my way through the rest of the year.

Over the past year, there have been days I wished for the end. I dreamt of yards of silk, cashmere cardigans, even fast fashion. I desired reckless consumption, a way to itch the scratch of my newest obsessions (Blouses! Tiered skirts! Red shoes!). A lifetime of longing for stuff, bubbling up in my daily life.

Then late January rolled around and I barely noticed I was free from my self-imposed restriction. See, a year of going sparingly has taught me, well, to go sparingly. I was always aware that this challenge was a concoction, that no one would care if I succeeded or failed. In fact, the entire retail industry was set up to cushion me if I fell off the wagon.

And still, the change that occurred was personal: the way I view clothes, how they’re made, and the space they inhabit in my life. See Susannah’s excellent end-of-challenge post here.

Coupon Tally

So how did I do? I spent 52.5 coupons, with 13.5 left. Since this limited my new purchases, they really had to matter. (Coupon prices, if you're curious.)

6.25 yards of fabric
1 cardigan, gray
1 blouse, black and white
2 scarves
2 pairs: 1 pair black flats, 1 pair black riding boots
2 nude bras
1 pair gray sweater tights
3 knee-high socks

But did they really matter? Yes and no. I'd say only half of them are used. Best purchases: Nude bras and good quality black flats. I wear them both constantly.

Challenges

There were times, especially during the summer, when I felt this challenge invited me into a different type of consumption. Sure, I wasn’t buying new things, but I was sewing and thrifting like a maniac.

Under the ration, second-hand clothes were allowed under a certain threshold. Susannah adds that “clothing is so incredibly cheap compared to clothing in the 1940s that you could easily stock a modern wardrobe with new clothing that didn’t exceed these price limits.” For those interested in changing garment prices, see the wonderful article, “The History of a Cheap Dress.”

Susannah was exactly right. Looking at the thresholds in today’s dollars, this would be no challenge at all. So as a goal, I aimed to only buy thrifted clothes that were 1/4 of the 1941 threshold (rounded). Both dollar amounts are listed below.

Common garments, price ($) threshold for second-hand
Winter coat 45 | 11
Jacket, blazer, short coat 20 | 5
Dress, wool 41 | 10
Dress, non-wool 26 | 7
Cardigan 20 | 5
Blouses, tees 15 | 4
Skirt 15 | 4
Slacks 19 | 5
Shorts 11 | 3
Pair of boots, shoes 15 | 4

Even with this restriction, I managed to buy A LOT of thrifted clothes that were less than the second number. It just goes to show you how much excess clothing is out there and how cheap you can get it. I only exceeded this goal three times: A vintage mod coat in rust ($14), a Michael Kors shift dress ($11) and a pair of Beautifeel nude t-straps ($7).

Thrifting, like the obsessive sewing, seemed to fulfill a need that was most pronounced after a death of a loved one. I just wanted to buy stuff. I wanted the new-to-me-ness. In hindsight, sewing or going to thrift shops was a way to channel my nervous energy from other stressors or distract me from grief. And of all the self-indulgent behaviors that I could’ve indulged in during such a tough time, I’m not going to begrudge myself this crutch.

But now in the new year, with a bit of healing behind me, I want to slow down. Less sewing, less shopping, more everything else. I have to remind myself that time is what I really value, not stuff.

Successes

Revisiting my intentions a year ago, I listed three main reasons why I wanted to embark on the challenge: I wanted to allow myself to buy more quality items, to explore personal style and to have some measure of financial accountability of my purchases. On all accounts—save what I mentioned above—I’d say I did well.

The thing that made the biggest difference, though, was having to constantly ask myself:

• Do I really need this?
• Will this serve me? 
• If I get this, am I willing to pass on some future desire (since the coupons/money have been spent)?

This made me frequently put things back on the rack.

I also purged my closet regularly, increasingly wanting less, wanting to have only things I actually wear. This became particularly important with all the thrifting and sewing. Each purge made the next easier. I gave things to friends, sold them to consignment, donated them. Amazing how I don’t miss things once they’re gone, and how better I feel to have clothing in colors and silhouettes I adore.

And finally, I attained a lot of new skills. I took numerous pattern drafting classes, learned to copy ready-to-wear and knit. All of these things are so empowering. It’s sort of mind-boggling to think that I could make everything on my body except for shoes.

What’s next?

In Ali-fashion, I want to hurl myself into another challenge, but it’s probably best I just pause here and enjoy my lessons.

In fact, as my habits changed (as imposed by the challenge), these lessons on having and wasting less bled into the rest of my life. Today, I commute to work by bike, compost, and subscribe to a local farm. I’ve installed water- and heat-saving devices in my home and have started to wash my clothes by hand (mostly because I can’t be bothered to schlep to the laundromat). I made draft snakes for my windows out of scraps and produce bags out of an old curtain. I relish fresh beans from my pressure cooker and books on my e-reader. I long for a little plot to grow things in.

So, the challenge is over and I’m not going to run out and buy stuff.  Instead, it’s a beautiful day in Oakland. I might wake the boy, make a quiche, and whip up the Victory Patterns’ Lola dress with my sister-in-law later. Maybe I’ll walk on the marina and dream of adventures-to-come.

Happy sewing and happy Sunday, all.

Xo

Sewaholic Renfrew: Must Have for Knit Lovers

It's no secret that I dig Tasia of Sewaholic's style. It's also no secret that I love sewing and wearing knits -- they're by far the most reached-for items in my wardrobe. Put the two together and you've got Tasia's latest pattern, a stylish take on comfort: The Renfrew pattern.

The pattern (announced here) is a stable knit top with three neckline options—a V-neck, a scoop neck, or a cowl neck—and three sleeve lengths.

I was thrilled to be one of Tasia's pattern testers. Even though her line serves pear-shaped women, this pattern is equally useful for rectangular gals, too (the waist definition offers some shape!). The sleeves and hem are cleanly finished with bands and you don't need a serger.

Really, this is a pattern that keeps on giving. The options seems to be endless. I made all three versions because I was excited about the neckline variety. This is my favorite:

Using a thrifted dress in a stable, heather blue polyester knit, I cut up a version with long sleeves and a cowl neck, shortening the length for my petite frame. I love that sporty look (partly inspired by Twinkle Sews Take Manhattan tunic) and I ended up adding a cord to the front of the tunic, like a hooded sweatshirt. I also used the wrong side of the fabric for the cowl, hem and cuffs to add contrast.

I wear this all the time. This was me going to pick up our box of veggies at the market on Saturday. Sometimes I doze off in it, it's so comfortable.

This was my first version, in stripe. This had a lot more stretch than the one above and I wish the fabric had more weight. The v-neck is a bit off, but v-necks are always tricky and Tasia's version is one of the best I've seen.

Lesson learned: Follow the suggested fabric suggestions! Stable knits don't have much stretch and they're a dream to sew with -- they seem to be the perfect combo of the ease of sewing with wovens with the comfort of knits.

Think of the options. You could make nine different tops, but you could also use contrast bands and hem for a totally different look. You could also lengthen each of these into dresses, with or without the hem band. A lovely cowl neck dress with three quarter sleeves for the office? A short-sleeve v-neck dress for summer? Lots of long sleeves to get you through winter?

Highly recommended. Pre-sale for the Renfrew available to Sewaholic newsletter subscribers. You can subscribe here.

Happy sewing!! And thanks to all your thoughts on dress forms. You'll meet her soon :)

Dress Forms: Worthwhile investment?

Hello, all! I'm back in my digs and have to catch up on my blog reading. But over the last days I've been obsessing about dress forms and was hoping for some experienced advice.

After an unhelpful duct-tape double, I dismissed dress forms altogether. Besides, I wasn't quite sure how a dress form would deal with my particular body shape, namely: Small bust, sway back, narrow hips, high waist etc.

But I'm beginning to think that having a three-dimensional form may do wonders in my sewing (even if it doesn't reflect my body exactly), to be an aid for basic pinning and fitting and hemming and time out.

What do you think? If you have a dress form, do you love it? How do you use it in your sewing? Or could you live without it?

I also wonder if it makes a huge difference to have an adjustable form or something I can customize to my body.

Thanks for any tips!

:)

Wanting Less but Making More?

There’s nothing like the new year to discuss resolutions or plans for the coming year. Though my head is filled with things I could make in the coming year (Dressses! Knitted accessories! Pants!) I’m hitting a mental snag: Do I really need more?

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My Fashion on the Ration challenge is wrapping up soon and so my shopping and fabric buying, after a year of restraint, will be wide open to every whim and desire. In this past year, my reading has lead me to subjects like wartime rations, personal style, wardrobe planning, production and distribution of goods, zero-waste lifestyles and minimalism. And while I tend to be a moderate about everything, I am starting to really believe that I can do more with less.

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Take this trip home. I packed 10 garments for 18 days, and 3 are barely worn. Granted, there’s no inclement weather, but there’s also no hemming and hawing over what to wear in the morning. No physical or mental clutter, clothing-wise. A wardrobe that’s streamlined and, most of all, me. It feels great. 

Juxtapose that to two crafts—sewing and now knitting—that are activities of creation. Whether or not I’m recycling materials, I’m still creating something new-to-me, which will live in my closet and my home. Let’s not even get into my thrifting habits.

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Here’s the thing: I really, really like making stuff. I really like the creativity and problem solving that comes with manipulating fabric; the tactile sensation of making, virtually absent from the rest of my life. And though I began sewing with the focus on the products of my labor, crafting has fulfilled an important need for me. It’s aided my sanity, channeling my oft-frazzled energy in a positive way.

So how do I balance wanting less with making more? I’m pretty good at culling my closet regularly, but I still seem to be adding just as much into the closet as I’m taking out. Here’s a few things I’ve been thinking about:

I could make stuff for others. If I had kids, this would be a no-brainer. I started to make items for my sisters and nieces last year, but it made up a small percentage of total makes for 2011. And, to be honest, I love the experimenting I get to do with my wardrobe when I make and thrift stuff for myself.

I could knit more. Knitting has been such a blessing these past months. It’s forced me to slow down and be more social, since I can more easily knit with my family rather than running around half-naked with an iron in hand while sewing. And what I love the most: Little’s lost in knitting. I was just knitting a top-down sweater and decided, just as I was about to separate the sleeves, that I didn’t like it. I put it aside, knowing I could always pick it up later. Now I’m working on a project I’m excited about.

I could make less. Reviewing my 2011 makes, I had far more successes in the latter half of the year when I took on big projects that took longer, like pants and jackets. Speed, which I love, makes me sloppy. And the slower I accrue items, I noticed, the more likely I am to use them. Each item gets to be the shining star for a bit and find a permanent place in the wardrobe.

I could buy less fabric and fewer patterns. Sewing gives you so many options, but I find too many choices can be daunting and overwhelming. Well-made plans often get tossed for shiny, new things.

I could make muslins. Better fit, slower construction.

I could sew with others. I had such a good time this year sewing with friends and family, and if I prioritized that time to sew rather than letting it infiltrate the rest of my life, it would be time well-spent. People I care about and a craft I love. 
 
I could participate in a wardrobe challenge like Project 333 or the 30-for-30 Remix to get a handle on what really gets worn.

What about you? Do you think you could do more with less? What strategies do you have to strike that balance?