And then: S-n-a-f-u. Here's the original and the revised version. Everything you see is an attempt to fix something that went terribly wrong. The sweetheart neckline is a failed square neckline. The bow is hiding fabric worn from unpicking. And the sleeves? Well, might as well cut 'em while we're at it.
Close-up of the neckline:
Good news? I totally love this. It's still this wonderful, comfortable fabric, but the neckline's much more interesting and the bow—which on first blush I'd think would be too feminine—works perfectly. You'll be seeing it lots in Self-Stitched September! :)
The cardigan is my first whack at the Sew U Homestretch raglan pattern. I turned to this pattern because my inspiration came from this 60s pattern, top left:
My version turned out differently. I didn't want it close to my neck and the fabric is a thrifted, vintage thick knit. I must have six more yards of this stuff. I really hatched this plan in Me-Made-May when I realized my wardrobe is fairly staid and I needed a colorful cardigan to give my threads a little more punch. And I love love love red.
On the inside, I lined the placket with some plaid I had laying around. This idea was originally concocted given my first hideous placket attempt, but I like the contrast it provides when the cardi is open.
Definitely not perfect, a wee bit tight. This sizing would work fine with a stretchier knit.
The jury's still out on whether I love this, but I will say I dig the retro-vibe of the collar and the vibrant color. Like the dress, this is something I had to revisit twice. Here's how I altered this raglan t-shirt pattern to make it into a cardigan.
- Add a bit of seam allowance to the front piece (1/4 inch) at the fold, and cut the front piece down center front.
- Cut two pieces of knit the length of the center front and wide enough for a button placket x 2 (don't forget Seam Allowance!). More succinctly Length=CF Length, Width=Desired Placket Width x 2 + Seam Allowance x 2. So for me, using 3/4 buttons and desiring a 1 1/4 placket, that became 1 1/4 x 2 + 1/4 x 2 = 3 inches.
- Fold placket along length. Iron in small squares of fusible interfacing to where you want the buttons/buttonholes to go between the wrong side of fabric. Stitch raw edges of folded placket to front of cardigan, right sides facing. Turn toward center. Topstitch seam allowance.
- Variation: The second time I did this, I wanted to have a different fabric on the inside, so I cut two self-fabric strips Length CF, Width 1 3/4 and two contrast bits of fabric with the same dimensions. In this variation, stitch self to contrast fabric and turn so raw edge is encased in the inside.
- I also topstitched about 1/8 inch from the center-side edge.
- All that obsessing over the crewneck neckband paid off. These are simply bands folded in half and stitched to the cardigan's raw edges, just like the placket. The only difference is with the collar, I stitched it to the wrong side and turned it to the right side, topstitching the bottom edge. It gives it a rolled collar look.
- Added 3 inches of length to front and back pieces, took off an inch at the neckline.
- Like the crewneck, the shoulders are a bit more angular than me, so I nipped in a 1/4 inch at the top few inches at the seam between the front bodice and sleeves.
- This does made the front larger than the back by the width of the placket. In my case, because this was an XS, it was necessary, but worth considering depending on fabrics/sizing.