May is upon us! The Inventory

On the Me-Made-May Flickr group and various blogs, there's been chatter about inventories: What do you have? What do you not have? What are you planning to sew?



I finally got around to photographing and cataloging my own inventory. And guess what? It doesn't look bad. All that time I spent with my sewing machine in April paid off. Here it goes:

Skirts/Dresses: 5
Bottoms: 5
Tops: 7
Outwear: 1
Bits and pieces: 2

This looks more impressive than it really is. Most Me-Made-May-Liters are wearing one handmade item per day. My personal challenge is much more modest: One item that has gone through my sewing machine per day. So here's the real breakdown:

Completely handmade: 6
Refashioned: 8
Altered: 6

Again, including altered items feels a bit like cheating, but what this means to me is that I was able to bring something I already own from total obscurity to regular rotation. An example? An Odille blouse I bought on sale at a consignment store. I hated wearing it every time I put it on, felt like the collar was choking my neck and it looked awful. So it always went back in the closet. This went on for months. I tacked the collar down and now I have a "new" blouse, something I'll actually wear.

It reminds me a bit of an essay I teach, in which the author relates how he once complained to his grandfather, at 7, that he was bored, "He told me that I was never to use that term in his presence again, that if I was bored it was my fault and no one else's. The obligation to amuse and instruct myself was entirely my own." I think of myself in front of a closet full of clothes, complaining, "I have nothing to wear." And then I start to thinking that I need to buy more of this or that.

So the lead up to Me-Made-May-Lite has been a wonderful challenge. Of the 20 items in my May wardrobe, 14 of them were made, refashioned or altered in April. I've got a few sewing plans, but I think like Zoe, Jessica and Tasia, who wrote wonderful posts on balancing sewing with the rest of your life, we slow down and look forward to May, to enjoying our unique creations, and to summer, on the horizon.

Shopping in my closet

More refashions/alterations for Me-Made-May! What I love is that I feel like I'm literally shopping in my closet. Most of the things in my massive alteration/refashion piles are things that have long fallen out of favor or never quite fit with everything else in the wardrobe but for some reason I can't bear to toss.

Refashioning is wonderful for precisely that reason: not only does it force me to look in my closet to meet meet wardrobe needs but with a little ingenuity I can reclaim some of the merit I'd originally seen in an item. I'm focusing my practical wardrobe for May on creating/repurposing tops I actually like (in a color other than black) and warm-weather bottoms. Really casual.

In my last post, I noted that I hemmed a pair of thrifted J Crew jeans, which I bought to replace a pair of (also thrifted) wide-leg Banana Republic jeans that I knew looked awful. I kept them because the denim is lightweight and soft, perfect for summer.

After moderate success with my red cigarette pants, I used the same pattern to slim these bad boys down. I took in the waist and back seam 2 inches and radically tapered the leg. It's still a tad too roomy by the waist, the opposite problem I have with the red pants. Sigh. But I'm learning.

Before:

After:

In addition to slim pants, I've been wanting more white in my wardrobe (and the surplice cut was a plus for my small bust). This gauze top set me back 99 cents at the thrift store but has been sitting in my closet for over a month. Why? I didn't like the cap/ruffly sleeves. Tuck 'em and sew: Totally wearable!

Before:

After:

And finally, this is an Old Navy tee I used to wear a lot for work, but it's gotten very little wear in the past four years. I think I hold onto it because in my head it's my Lelaina Pearce shirt. Remember Reality Bites? I so wanted to be her when I was 15.


But I no longer liked the crew neck and I'm outgrowing this shade of red. So I decided to cut the neckline, modeled after an American Apparel top I just thrifted, and played with my rolled hem foot. The neckline turned out all wonky, but I kind of like that. Perhaps the raw look of it will pair nicely with something more formal (grandpa cardigan, blazer?)

Before:

After:

I also altered a pair of Billabong capris that has gotten close to zero use since I bought them five years ago. Annoying pocket and cuffs fixed!

With this newest dent, I think I'll take a refashioning break and sew some tops and shorts from scratch. It feels great to finally be making some leeway with these old items as they're very low investment (they're already on hand and most take 15 minutes or so), high reward!

A dent in the pile: Prepping for Me-Made-May-Lite

My refashion and alteration piles are fearfully high, but here's a small dent I've made in it looking forward to Me-Made-May-Lite. I hemmed a pair of thrifted J Crew Favorite Fit jeans 3.5 inches using this fail-proof hemming method, adjusted the collar on an Odille blouse, and refashioned a few items.

This is a thrifted J Crew 100% wool sweater that I wear often even though it looks like a trash bag on me. It is a large, but I return to it because it's got the convenience of a cardigan with the warmth of a coat. When I saw this men's sweater, I got the idea to jazz it up with contrasting buttons. I also took in the sides 2 inches and lowered the shawl collar to make it more flattering.

Before:

After:

This is a also a thrifted knit top by Heirloom Collectibles. I loved the knit, but the color and size was simply unflattering. My idea was to die it black and change the buttons to red ones, but the dye job simply failed. Instead I bleached it, which gave it a neat effect, and I also took in the sides and shoulder seams 2 inches. It's not a fave, but I think I could rock this with some shorts and wedges a la 70s once the weather gets going.

Before:

After:

And finally, this is a refashion of a failed refashion. These are an old, well-loved pair of Old Navy capris that was one of the few garments I wore in Asia last summer. After wearing and sweating in them nearly every other day, I was simply sick of them. I also am more inclined to a darker denim these days.


I removed the cuffs, tapered the leg and dyed them navy blue. Problem? The dye turned out splotchy. I think I just need to swear off dye from now on.

So, I used these Ready Made instructions to make them into cuff shorts. I definitely have a short-shortage in the old closet, so these will be used a lot!

Before:

After:

Happy Aloha Friday everyone! I'm off for the weekend!

Mad Men Headbands

With Mad Men all the rage, a BurdaStyle member whipped up this Mad Men headband pattern to share. I typically don't wear headbands, but I was beginning to worry about having nothing to wear for Me-Made-May!

I'm surprised how much I enjoy them, actually. I've been wearing them quite a bit since I made them a few days ago; they're perfect now that I'm growing my hair out and to keep wisps off my face during the coming California heat. I had a mild obsession with making Amy Butler swing bags and this was a wonderful way to use up scraps from those projects. The bottom line? Totally cute, totally easy (as in 15-minutes or less easy), no new fabric required and you can make them reversible!

I just had to model a few. I love the yellow contrast against my dark hair.



And here's a blue linen.



I've got a number of things in queue, but these mini-projects are feeding the productivity whore who lives inside of me. It makes me feel like I'm a busy bee. A few other seemingly quick-cute-and-easy projects I've got my eye on: verypurpleperson's gathered dress tutorial, Weiner Dog Tricks' Super Simple Nightie (via Sew Mama Sew), and the Spring Ruffle Top (also via Sew Mama Sew).

Birthday pants!

After thinking about channeling my sewing energies into the types of clothes I'd use the most, I knew I had to sew pants. I love them. Really, I would not survive a week without a pair. A good number of my childhood memories include fighting my mom's attempts to get me into a skirt or a dress. I usually showed up to some special function defeated, trailing behind her in some monstrous, poofy thing with a bow, pouty and red-eyed. To this day, she's amazed when she sees me wearing a skirt or dress on my own accord.

I also have a weakness for the color red. So when I turned 30 last week, I decided that this would be my present to myself, 'cause it's my party and I'll wear red pants if I want to. Birthday pants!

Of course I didn't finish in time for the party due to my sewing skills (or perhaps over-ambition). The fabric is from a thrifted linen tablecloth and I used this pattern from 1968:



In hindsight, the pants probably were supposed to look something like this outfit from '68 (from the FIT online museum):



But in my head, the pants looked like this:



Oh, Audrey and her cigarette pants! So I kept making them slimmer and slimmer until now I've got tight pants. The side view here shows how fitted it is:



In addition to making the legs slimmer, I added patch pockets, using a pocket pattern from Wendy Mullin's Sew U, and lining them with a green plaid.



My biggest problem, by far, was fit, and this is probably because I altered the pattern so much from the original. I kept making the elastic waist tighter so it wouldn't shimmy down my okole and because the elastic waist is tight (thought not uncomfortable), I've definitely got some muffin-top action going on at the waist when I sit down. The crotch is a wee bit low and I think the upper thigh could use a 1/2 inch more in future incarnations.

But in all, it was a wonderful learning experience and they held up for their spin in the washing machine and on the town. Here are my lessons:

-I know I said this on the Marie skirt, but I can *really* do zippers now. Hooray!
-In addition, I can do patch pockets and use bias tape (for the hem)
-With pants, I need to be aware of how much fabric my backside requires. At first, it kept dipping below the front waistline. I also need to take into account the upper thigh. They need to be loose enough to not pull the crotch down.
-I prefer belt loops (as much as I hate sewing them) to an elastic waist

I love the ankle-length and will definitely attempt a similar pattern soon. I'd like to make them a bit looser in the leg without sacrificing the slim look. Far from perfect, but I'm pleased!

Stitching my way to self-sufficiency: Me-Made-May Lite

Lots has been going on in the old noggin about clothes, sewing and personal philosophy. I often wonder how my budding interest in personal style lead me back into wanting to sew apparel, but I think I can credit the amazing number of sewing blogs out there (so much inspiration!) in addition to a quirk in my personality: I like to make things. I like to problem solve. I aim to be self-sufficient. When the bumper fell off my car on the freeway, you can bet your okole that I didn’t call Triple A. Not when there was a wire hanger and some paperclips in the trunk.

Self-sufficiency may seem like merely a nostalgic notion (something our grandparents did), but what if it is or could be a defining feature of our lives? Sure, there are plenty moments in my life where I defer to the expertise and resources of others (I’m not going to change my car’s timing belt, for instance), but in my daily living, I don’t want to outsource if I can help it. I want to understand how things work. I want to know that I am not just capable but able, that I am not a victim, stunned to the world around me. It makes me learn patience, as sometimes by trying to make something better I make it worse. And quite frankly, by virtue of where I live and my good credit, I have the privilege to outsource if I needed to (say, I screwed up the plumbing). I learn to complain less, recognize the worth in doing something well. I like knowing that I am not the kind of person who throws something out, trades in for something seemingly better. If it's worth it, it's worth mending. My relationships, I hope, reflect that.

And this is only one small bit of what I’ve been thinking. Sewing, like many acts that involve creation, is much larger than the mere act of stitching. In March, Zoe at So, Zo… embarked on Me-Made-March (inspired by the Makeshift project), where she wore handmade items every day for a month. The project, she hoped, would “encourage sewers and refashioners to rely on their creations to perform the function they are intended for: to clothe you.” Yes! I thought. That’s exactly the point. This echoes my sentiments on having a practical wardrobe.

Why stop there? At Male Pattern Boldness, there have been phenomenal discussions on sewing as protest, social class and whether we should dress for others. Sarai at Colette Patterns talks about redefining luxury. Gertie at Gertie’s Guide to Better Sewing talks gender, politics and pencil skirts. Tilly, who signed on for the Refashion pledge about the same time I did, has some wonderful thoughts on how sewing changes the way you shop. And fellow grad student Jessica at A Yen for Craft has eloquently argued about the significance of homemade objects and how the process, in and of itself, is rewarding.

There are so many I’ve left out, but these topics floating in the blogosphere makes me realize that there is a shift going on in the way we think about how we clothe ourselves and the way we live. I don’t think we need to be overtly political, but awareness is absolutely essential. Self-sufficiency is one way to give you that awareness. Even when you fail, you learn to appreciate the skills of others. I plan to do plenty of failing in May, because I’m joining Zoe’s Me-Made-May project!


There are several who have signed up for the full version, wearing all handmade items (except for bras, socks, etc.) but Zoe has given us a lite option, in which we can more or less define the challenge for ourselves.

So, for Me-Made-May-Lite, I only have one basic premise: Each day for the month of May, I will wear at least one item that has passed through my sewing machine.

I feel like I’m cheating, but it’s a compromise between wanting to participate and being realistic. Beyond the time element, my sewing skills are not up to par to even wear one handmade item (from scratch, that is) per day. My skirts? Count ‘em: One. Two. Finito. Ha! I’d be naked well before Memorial Day. And then there’s the sad truth: there are things I botch beyond repair, so I need the wiggle room, maybe even a few Get-Out-of-Jail free cards.

But this will allow me to include items that I’ve bought and mended or refashioned in addition to some, small homemade items I’m working on (Mad Men headbands, anyone? How about this lovely scarf tutorial? Don’t forget about the bloomers!). This incarnation of the challenge will allow me to do several things 1) improve my sewing skills and begin to understand fit better, which will allow me to sew more handmade items with less frustration 2) help me fill in the gaps in my wardrobe with my existing alteration/refashion pile 3) aid me in my goal to have a practical, perfectly fitting wardrobe and 4) be a part of a community of like-minded people.

So, in the coming weeks I plan on posting a number of small projects. Here’s to May, here’s to self-sufficiency!

Bloomers!

So I guess what they say is true: When you wear sexy underwear, you're tempted to show them off. Here I am in my skivvies on the world wide web.

I am in love with these, made from the Colette Patterns *free* Madeleine Mini-Bloomers pattern. My version may not be "sexy"—made in gingham stolen from the boy's stash and some thrifted ribbon—but I feel luxurious in them, partly because I usually sleep in sweatpants or leggings and I see these more as ridiculously adorable boxers for the ladies. These will be a godsend in the dog days of summer. I want more in different colors. My friends have already put in their requests.

When it was first released, I didn't pay the pattern much mind, dreaming instead of skirts and dresses and other projects beyond my level. It was cold in February, I wasn't inclined to run around mostly naked. But then there was all those adorable versions in the Flickr Colette Patterns pool, and envy set in (what a reliable motivator!). I'd also given up on a vintage shirt pattern where I could not get the collar or the sleeve to attach without major bunching and was re-introduced to my sewing limitations. Sigh. I needed small projects to keep me sewing. Reduce frustration. Amp up motivation.

And that's what I really love about this pattern: it makes me feel like I can sew. It certainly did not take me an hour or two, as the pattern says, and the elastic and ribbon took me forever, but I will never forget to clip those seams again! This review at the Scrapyard was particularly helpful. As she did, I sewed all the casings first before threading in the elastic and ribbon.

If anything, they will come in handy during the Me-Made-May challenge. More on my version of the challenge soon, but if I find myself at the end of the day in May and haven't worn anything handmade, I can always reach for these cuties.

Little Earthquakes, or The Practical Wardrobe

Whew! Two weeks and winded.

My usual 67-hour work week made way for the long awaited Spring Break, so I flew up to Northern California and the boy and I drove out to the little town of Murphys, Calif., where we ate, drank local wine and slept in an old hotel that once hosted Mark Twain, Susan B. Anthony and the "Gentleman Bandit."



When we woke, on March 31, snow!



Which, of course, quickly melted.



On April 1, my rockstar of a sister had a baby in her house alone. This baby was in a rush. Water broke, baby out in 12 minutes. The firemen came to cut the cord and bring her to the hospital. I flew back down as soon as I could, of course. She's stunning.



Being aunty, I helped with the kids, cooked, fed the horses, and scooped manure. I flooded a trailer. I drove up to L.A., picked up a car. I came back to my own digs, began my own washing and cleaning after a week away from home, and the house shook with the 7.2 magnitude earthquake in Baja.

DMV and paperwork and lost and founds. And then, yesterday, I printed out three copies of my thesis and delivered it to my committee. Yes, the photo looks more impressive than it is, but they're 175 pages a pop.



And now it's over. Since this is a blog about wardrobe, what do you wear when life gives you a few weeks like this? Weather and travel and emergencies and nice dinners and dirty work? What's in your suitcase?

I tend to be practical to a fault. Even in my garden, I prefer to grow vegetables rather than flowers, and even the flowers I do have—nasturtiums and borage—are edible. More and more, my wardrobe is becoming like my garden. It needs to support my life.

So what did I wear? Wide-legged jeans, stretchy cigarette pants, a tunic, a wool grandpa sweater, a hoodie, flats, and a messenger-type purse. Over and over in different combinations. These clothes were by far the most comfortable, they allowed me the most ease from activity to activity. For the dirtier jobs: jeans, a cotton-button down shirt, J-41 shoes. Sturdy. Easy to wash.

It was a reminder that I don't really need all those pretty shoes and dresses, because I honestly don't wear them. That's not my real life. In any future additions to my closet, as much as I like skirts and dresses, I know that I'm more likely to wear pants and tanks so that's where I'll put most of my focus.

I think this veers a bit away from the popular tendency to sew or invest in something special, i.e. an evening or vintage-era dress, since the time or money investment justify something beautiful and unique (and who doesn't want that?). Trust me, I understand wanting something significant to show for your investment (it took me forever to make something that was, for many, a "one to two hour" project).

But what of the day-to-day? Can we instead put our effort into the things that equip us when life throws everything it can at us? Can't we make those items beautiful and unique? To me, that's what style is all about. Effortlessness while still feeling good.

It reminded me of something from Amanda Brooks' I Love Your Style. She notes Ingeborg Day's seventies-era book, Cheap Chic, which suggests prioritizing the areas of your life that you dress for, including work, play/casual, play/elegant, sports/exercise, social functions, and bedtime. Your clothes budget, she says, should reflect the amount of time you spend in those areas. Brooks herself admits that she used to spend her money on evening clothes when in reality she spent most of her time dressed casually. She writes:

So now I limit my tendency to buy only special things so I can afford also to buy some more casual things—like cashmere sweaters and great weekend pants—that are not only comfortable but also look good and make me feel attractive even if I'm just taking the kids to school.

What about your closet? Where do you put your focus? How does your wardrobe support you?