Summer Essential: Sweet and Sassy Skirt, McCalls 5803

Before this whole reimagining my wardrobe business, I wasn't keen on anything other than denim and jersey and their friends (khakis et al). I didn't like skirts at all, as they always seemed to require a modesty I didn't have and tended to shift about. But I'm slowly becoming a convert, especially with this sweet-and-sassy full skirt (Summer Essential #3!) McCalls 5803.


It was a pattern I would've overlooked. I'm not yet adept enough to see the potential in a pattern without a model or illustration that I can see myself in. In this case, my model was not on the envelope, but Tasia, who's made the skirt three times, one in black as one of her Top 10 Sewing Projects, which she describes as "the perfect black skirt. Full, fitted at the waist for the perfect hourglass shape, in a fabric that works for both day and night." By the end of Me-Made-May, in which she wore her black (Armani fabric!) version several times, I simply had to have it. Here's her sporting it:


What I love about this skirt is its fullness is created by pleats rather than gathers, allowing the waistline to be fairly flat. It falls a bit above the knee and has pockets to boot. It seems, which I wouldn't've guessed from the cover art, to be an incredibly versatile design: It can be done up in prints for a spring/summery/playful feel or in dark solids for a basic skirt with a little bit of shape and flair. As a basic, it's easy to play up with either retro or contemporary styling.

I finished it just in time to see Chanel and Stravinsky, here's my first jaunt out:



Onto my essential criteria:

• Does it meet the rule of three? Yes, but barely. Since it's the first of it's kind in my closet, I need to learn how to wear it.
• Does the pattern have remake potential? Absolutely! After Operation Ruby Shorts and the evasive Japanese top, it was such a joy to put together. So easy and high reward. I fall between sizes 12 and 14 (two seperate envelopes) but with some help from Tasia I opted to go down to size 12 and decreased the rear center seam allowance a bit and it was just fine.
  
• Did you use fabric from your stash? Yes! Though black would've been the most versatile, I opted for a dark blue given it's summer. I'd wanted to use a darker fabric, but alas, there wasn't enough, so I used this thrifted fabric and I'd assumed it was a linen blend. I'm thinking now it's more like wool. Wool in summer? Yikes.
• Will this be able to replace something you love less? No, but I am donating something else that's ill-fitting.

One of the things I admire the most on sewing blogs is the amount of body and self awareness that seems to be the natural byproduct of sewing. I suppose, if we're going to make the effort of sewing a garment, we might as well make choices that flatter us. Sewists know what style they're going for and what colors and silhouettes flatter their body shape.

This full-skirt is entering my wardrobe partly in an attempt to flatter my square-shaped figure. My waist and hip measurements are actually similar to some of my friends that appear hourglass-like to me, but my bust is fairly close to my waist making me boyish on top. From what I've read, there are two ways to flatter a square-size body. You can create the illusion of more curves with cinched waists (big belts, peplum jackets, or full skirts with natural waists) or fluttery things around the bust (ruffles etc). Or you can do the opposite, wear loose, flowing items that skim over the body.

In this skirt, I feel pretty (and happy and gay:). There seems to be nothing more feminine than a swishing skirt and heels. But I'm really at a loss on how to pair it. I did some digging in my closet.




Attempt 1: Eek! Cried the mouse. Talk about emphasizing my boyish top.
Attempt 2: Better, the cap sleeves balance the fullness a bit. But hadn't I said once that I was swearing off skin-tight tees? I might have to revisit that.
Attempt 3: Better. I feel Peggy Olson-y, ready for the office. But I'm not going to the office. :(

I'm unaccustomed to having all this shape on my lower-half and feel like I need tops that balance me. So, what's a girl to do? Sew, of course! From now until the July 4 holiday, I'm sewing tops, hopefully culminating in the white blouse on my list.

I'd love to know from you skirt-savvy gals: What skirt shapes (full, A-Line, pencil, etc) flatter your body and how do you pair it?

Happy sewing :)

Chanel, Stravinsky & Me

It's all Coco Chanel's fault. Really. I'd been a garment-sewer-failure until I saw Coco Before Chanel, starring Audrey Tatou, last fall, and I decided to finally finish the vintage sheath dress that had been languishing half-done in my closet for months. Looking at the dress now, the quality is awful—the seams are unfinished, the straps are too loose, and so forth—but it was my first wearable item from scratch. I wore it to my friend's art show, I started reading sewing blogs, I discovered BurdaStyle. The blog was born. My origin story, thanks to Coco.



And then the boy and I were walking one day to find that Chanel & Stravinsky was playing at the local art theater. As a self-respecting home sewer, I couldn't go to bask in Chanel's persona without handmade threads, so I finished my full-skirt and swished over to the theater in my heels on Saturday night.

Like Coco Before Chanel, this flick is a biopic of sorts, following her affair with composer Igor Stravinsky. This follows the heartbreak we witness in Coco Before Chanel, with the death of Boy Capel. These two actresses—Tatou and Anna Mouglalis—depict Coco Chanel very differently, though it could be interpreted as a woman in two very different times in her life and a World War between them. Both Chanels are fiery, composed, elegant, and unbelievably driven. Mouglalis' Chanel, however, is more tempered on the surface, as a woman who has achieved some success (though in 1920, she wasn't the Chanel she would later become). She's also less playful, smiles and laughs hardly at all in this film, but again, this follows heartbreak and war.

Though I don't have any interest in Chez Chanel today—that type of luxury and all it represents—I'm amazingly attracted to the trail-blazing independence of the woman herself and enjoyed both of these movies immensely. I also love her emphasis on elegance and comfort. The costumes alone make the movie worth seeing.

Costume sketches. Oh, the 1920s. What an era for fashion and women. Mouglalis is incredibly svelte but I've also read that the boyish figure of a 15-year-old girl was considered the ideal figure in this era and these straight-styles reflect that. Everything draped. Low waistlines. As a square-shaped gal, I could take a cue.



Chanel and Stravinsky. It's hard to see in this photo, but the silk camisoles she wore throughout the film were so elegant and versatile. They flattered her small bust by showing off her collarbones and shoulders. They tucked into skirts beautifully. Throw a cardigan or a loose blazer over it, and voila! Tres Chanel.



Chanel is obviously famous for black. In the film, Stravinsky's wife asks if she doesn't like color and she responds, "As long as it's black." And later, when she begins her affair with Stravinsky, she begins wearing white and a friend teases that her perfume (which would later become Chanel No. 5) could be called the Eau de Russie. Apparently, though, after the war (according to the costume designers), there was this shift from black to white. I love how these high contrast details add so much elegance all the while using basic colors. In the movie, they say, "She can even make grief look chic." Indeed, Mme. Chanel makes everyone else look like a bloated peacock.







I just love the intimacy of this photo. Chanel in silk black pajamas.



***

Desire, that little devil

In my last post, I mentioned how much I enjoyed Zoe’s post on forgiveness in your homemade wardrobe. One quote, in particular, stuck out to me:

Sometimes even, I look at all my handmade clothes (which now form the majority of my wardrobe) hanging up and feel that it's all just shoddy shit and I have no 'real' clothes. But that doesn't last long and I acknowledge that is my social conditioning speaking, not really me.

On one level, I (and several of the other commenters) take heart that someone who can clearly sew extremely well, is devoted to the handmade movement and who has inspired many of us, also has these moments of doubt. As someone who’s new to this wonderful-and-frustrating act of sewing apparel, I need to know that my feelings are normal. In some of my recent sewing attempts, I kept muttering to myself, while picking out a seam or looking at myself in a mirror at a project that started out with great promise to end in “meh”: This is why people buy their clothes. Who am I fooling? There are more constructive ways I can spend my time. I have enough clothes, anyway.

Which segues to a question that I've been turning over in my head since I read Zoe's post: What is this obstacle that's "not really me"? And, by extension, does my relationship to buying clothes (where I suspect this not-me lives) affect the way I sew and view the clothes I make? After thinking about it, it all comes down to desire. Whether inherent, and/or piqued by society and the media, it’s always lingering on the horizon.

A childhood friend of mine once told me that I was always someone who wanted things. I was surprised by that, as my life has always been fairly humble (both growing up and by choice in adulthood) and the implication was that I had more desire than others. And besides, I tend toward the pragmatic and can always be swayed by logic. I’ve chosen to live with more time and less money, believe in the potential benefits and quality of homemade versus mass-produced, and the ability for each person to be thinking and creative individuals. I’ve also sworn off perfection a long time ago (to temper my perfectionist tendencies, nothing’s worse than always being dissatisfied no matter how much work I’ve put into something). I know, I know, it’s a mixed bag of New Age optimism and post-modern pessimism.

And still, put me in a mall, in front of a fashion magazine, or tempt me with patterns and pretty fabric and I’m just like the seagulls in Finding Nemo, “Mine, mine, mine, mine!” Whoa! How did that bully of desire steamroll everything I’ve carefully placed in order to block its path?

Now don’t get me wrong. I’m not deeply anti-consumerist. I don’t have a problem with buying things that equip us, both practically and aesthetically. If you’ll use it, buy it. What I have a problem with is the invitation to hoard. More precisely, I hate feeling like my life is empty and that there’s something wrong with me and my body and my clothes and it will all simply be rectified if I buy, buy, buy. And I come home with bags and regret.

Anyone who knows me knows this happens very rarely. I likely manage to find something wrong with an item or let myself cool down before I make a purchase. But still, why does self-loathing enter the picture regardless? Why feel like crap if I don’t have X?

X, as home sewers, can mean clothes that look like ready-to-wear, even though the point is that they’re not ready-to-wear, right? Otherwise we would’ve just bought it in the first place. There’s a lot to be said about skill level, industrial tools and quality here, but what I’m going for is the psychology of knowing something is homemade. More precisely, something is different than everyone else. Tasia, in her comment on Zoe's post, mentioned that only recently did she get over pointing out every flaw in her handmade clothes (this coming from the woman who consistently churns out professional-looking clothes) and Jessica and I have been discussing our shyness over admitting we sew and blog about it to people in our “real” lives. Why be hyper-cognizant that we, and the items we wear, are different? Why doesn’t the compulsion that drove us to make them in the first place suffice? They fit, they’re original and we have a personal connection to them. I guess what I’m asking is, could the social stigma be self-imposed?

In addition to how we view our handmade clothes, two fellow sew-alongers had wonderful insights that got me thinking about whether our patterns of behavior in clothes-buying are transferred onto the things we make. Debbie, on her blog, quoted the Ms Harris’ Book of Green Household Management by Caroline Harris:

We’ve somehow got used to purchasing almost a whole new wardrobe each season—and then we're encouraged to de-clutter and get rid of everything we don’t wear, taking the rejects to the charity shop to assuage our guilt. At its worst, it's a kind of binge-purge cycle.

Like Debbie, Ms Harris’ suggestions seems a little spare to me (only four skirts?), but I think she’s right on about the binge-purge cycle. That doesn’t seem healthy at all. For me, since I buy little, it’s not a binge-purge cycle but an elation-regret cycle. Elation over the new, fabulous thing, regret over the reality that the thing is just a thing. And desire's at the root of it.

Then Katie admitted she doesn’t wear the clothes she sews (she should, ‘cause they’re fabulous! Check out her capris):

Why don’t I wear the clothes I sew? Because I impulse buy whatever print or color strikes my fancy and I don’t take into consideration what I already own. That and because the stash has completely taken over my sewing room and living room and when I put a print or new weird color in the stash by the time I see it again it is out of style or out of season and I just make something to get it out of the stash.

What do you think? Do we transpose our buying impulses into sewing? I realize that sewing can go a long way toward slowing down our store-bought clothing hoarding, but do we make up for it by snatching up loads of fabric and patterns?

I mentioned, in regard to my Japanese top, that it’s the things that I’m initially lukewarm about that I cling to the most long-term and I think this psychology is at work here. The buzz I get over things that inspire the “mine, mine, mine” mentality fades nearly as soon as I gather back my self-control. Yet it’s the things that slowly surface as soldiers in my closest that I end up loving. As a result, I have the opposite problem as Katie: My fabric stash and my sewing plans reflect basics that would never get me hot-and-bothered with desire. But that means no romance and a fairly staid wardrobe.

But then the rabbit hole gets deeper. I began my career studying and covering media law, and I always remember this quote from former Supreme Court justice William Douglas, "At the constitutional level where we work, 90 percent of any decision is emotional. The rational part of us supplies the reasons for supporting our predilections." Ninety percent is emotional? We use our reason to rationalize our desire?

Perhaps this is why I allow myself to buy clothing, fabric and sewing patterns that I can rationalize. Even with this so called reason-mediation, I have more patterns than I could get through even if I sewed every day this year. And my fabric stash is just as hefty as the clothes hanging in my closet. In the end, it seems, we still do what we like. Is there ever enough? And should we care?

So I’m back to where I started: Reimagining my wardrobe, one garment at a time. And I suspect desire, that little devil, will keep peeking his head in. But if style is all about self-knowledge, than perhaps I’ll get better at knowing myself and knowing when something I want is something I could also use practically and aesthetically, and that seems like the best compromise a girl could ask for.


[The photo above comes from the boy's photo "stash," much easier to manage digitally! A blip in developing, the visual depiction of the difference between what you aim for and what you sometimes get.]

Japanese Top: The Politician Finally Acts

My uncle uses the acronym N-A-T-O to describe a certain class of politician: No Action, Talk Only. I've been a bit like that lately, talking a big sewing-game, but where, pray tell, are the goods?

One of the things I've been talking a lot about is this Japanese top, as part of Cecili’s Sew-Along. I was supposed to make one of my "Tees, Tunics & Blouses" out of this:



And here's my version.



Part of the fun, to me, is adapting patterns, though I more often than not do this to my detriment and that was the case with this one. I wasn't quite sure how the top would fit me and I was dubious the sleeves would flatter me (why can't I have a giraffe-like figure where everything looks good?). I used stash-fabric, so in my head I started imagining my version would look something like this Built by Wendy dress:



Anyway, even though I had wonderful examples on how to use this pattern, including Cecili's black and white tunic, Zoe's groovy version, Minnado's brown version and Alison's dress, I kept altering and re-altering it. It was longer, it was shorter. It had an elastic waist, it didn't. Dress. Tunic. Dress. Tunic. Ah! It never looked wrong, but it never looked right, either. The v-band took forever (because I kept screwing it up), and it's not perfect, but I do like the shape. Basting became my BFF.



And, in regard to my essential criteria:

• Does it meet the rule of three? I'm still lukewarm on whether I like this, but I'll definitely wear it three times. I think it's classic enough to pull off, perhaps with cigarette pants. I'm also considering chopping it to make it more blouse-y.
• Does the pattern have remake potential? I couldn't recreate this if I tried given all the altering, so no. But I had a ton of fun tracing the Japanese pattern and would totally do that again. In fact, the experience is making me consider a store-bought pattern embargo. I've got enough to last me awhile and I can start experimenting with tracing and fitting.
  
• Did you use fabric from your stash? Yes!
• Will this be able to replace something you love less? That's unclear yet, since I'm not sure of it's usefulness. But I always find that it's the things I'm lukewarm with at first that I end up clinging to the most long-term. I'm like that with people, too. :0

In other news...

Thanks for your amazing comments on cutting/space! I'll have you know I'm already taking your advice. Look! Ziplock bags, projects ready to go.

I even put aside a designated sewing space by giving up my desk for the summer. I've never considered doing this, but as someone who largely works from home, this will actually force me do some of my work from libraries and cafes, where I can focus rather than veering off into blog-land while I'm on deadline (or spending all day languishing in my pajamas! I need an excuse to dress up and leave the house! :).

A few plugs to my fellow Japanese top sew-alongers

• If you missed out on the fun, Alison is hosting July's sew-along, click here for the deets. I may pass on July, since I'm behind on my essentials, but the pattern looks lovely
• Cecili, our host of Japanese top sew-along part 1, is a Japanese-pattern queen and now she's on a Dior kick. Where did this woman learn how to sew, and can I live there?
• Zoe wrote a beautiful and eloquent post on forgiveness in regard to your handmade wardrobe. I keep thinking about it. Every home sewer should read it, in my opinion. Find it here.

Finally, two great posts on summer sewing. Jessica shows us how to line a sleeveless dress and Gertie's got great tips on summer sewing (the lazy gal in me may just try some sew-in interfacing)!

On Prep and Efficiency: Cutting and Space

The list of folks participating in the Summer Essentials Sew-Along keeps growing and the wonderful garments I'm seeing in our Flickr pool is astounding. I'm so, so impressed with how much output we've had given it's only mid-June!

I've been mum on this end because I’ve been sick, the kind of sick that’s made me wish I had health insurance. Boo. And I could’ve been sewing if it wasn’t for the hot-cold-hot body temperature, the nose raw from blowing, the aching. I woke this morning, though, possibly on the mend (my throat doesn’t feel like sandpaper).

Though a few times this week, in moments of fleeting equilibrium, I took a tip from some of the amazing sew-alongers (as mentioned in the Flickr discussions) and I cut out several sewing projects. It had never dawned on me to do such a thing—perhaps I simply was hesitant to commit a certain fabric to a certain pattern or more likely I simply lacked the forward-thinking that this sew-along is engendering. It makes sense: It’s efficient, as I don’t have to clear an area for cutting frequently. And I’m more likely to sit down and sew, since it’s all prepped. I’ve cut out another pair of Ruby shorts in denim, the full skirt in navy linen and the Japanese top/dress in a gray rayon-y fabric (I think). I actually tried to start sewing the Japanese top, but in my loopiness I kept screwing up the collar. ☹ I always laugh when I read about other sewers’ faux pas that come with the warnings: Do not sew while drinking wine OR exhausted OR watching sitcom reruns, and now my addition: while loopy on over-the-counter meds.

Cutting used to be my least favorite activity. I’d only taken one sewing-class, seven years ago, and my teacher taught us to find our size, cut it, and then pin it to the fabric and cut accordingly. Since then I’ve done different things: Traced the pattern onto tissue paper or used tracing paper to trace onto fabric (both with the intention of utilizing the different sizes for friends, which has never, never happened; or, of course, in the event that I screw up my own size). I’ve cut with shears or rotary cutters, pinned and used pattern weights. I’ve used store bought patterns and printed them out online. I’ll admit that I hate taping those little pieces of paper together (below is McCalls 5803) but I love working with the heavier paper and knowing I can cut while still retaining the original electronically.


[My living room, as of late]

But I haven’t found a method that I consistently like and I wanted to tap your knowledge, since many of you have far more sewing experience than I do: What’s your most efficient cutting method?

Also, I imagine sewing-efficiency also has to do with space. Living alone, I didn’t mind if I took over the kitchen table for a few days with my sewing projects. But now I’m back to cohabitating and my heavy Husqvarna’s a nomad, traveling to any flat surface that won’t disturb my other domestic needs. And then the ironing board’s sitting in the middle of the living room and there are bits of fabric everywhere, definitely not a recipe for domestic tranquility. I try and remember that Wendy Mullin (of Built by Wendy) used to sew on stacked up milk crates in her New York apartment. Sometimes I stare at my space, and ask myself, “What would Wendy do?”

So, another question: for those of you with small spaces, how do you manage to sew without letting your entire space look like a sewing factory? I clearly want to do a lot of sewing this summer and it’s simply inefficient to re-create a sewing space every time I want to stitch, but there’s no room for a designated sewing area. Help! (Oh! Two bedrooms, I pine!)

Know that I’m deeply impressed and envious of all the sewing that I’ve seen happening on your blogs and in the Flickr group. I’ll be catching up soon—on blog-love and sewing! ☺

The Morning Paper (Bag Skirt) & Eight Questions

This morning, I couldn't take it anymore. This woman keeps churning out the cuteness like there's no tomorrow. Dresses and skirts and dresses and skirts. Ah!

Prompted yesterday by verypurpleperson's blog, in which she posted two floral dresses and two floral skirts based on her easy full skirt tutorial, combined with my need for some instant gratification after the Ruby Shorts, I whipped up this paper bag skirt this morning:



As promised, the skirt was easy-peasy and I definitely recommend the tute. It took me a bit longer (2 hours) because I made the pockets from my (very hazy) memory. Even though I'm totally smitten with verypurpleperson's style, I was never quite sure if I, 1) liked paper bag skirts (I'm square shaped, I'm not sure that extra fabric at the waist helps or hurts, a problem easily balanced by something called breasts, if I had them) or 2) liked this fabric. But it was in the donation pile and I'd just been complaining about my color/print shyness. I was positive I didn't like it when it was done, too tulip-y, etc., but it equipped me well today as I walked around the city and its color is forcing me to wear some of my neglected tops. So, we're on speaking terms. And I'll definitely do it again in a different fabric.

And on to the fun and games!

The very charming Tilly has tagged me in a game of eight questions.

1. What is your staple meal? (ie. what meal do you cook most often, when you can't be bothered to think of anything adventurous)

To perpetuate the Asian (I'm half) stereotype of rice-love, it's rice. When I was a kid, I used to eat rice with shoyu (soy sauce). Period. Now it's rice, shoyu, furikake, and maybe a poached egg. If I'm thinking ahead, it's the lemon-basil baked tofu from Peter Berley's Modern Vegetarian Kitchen with something green and of course, rice. I eat that A LOT (and I'm not a vegetarian, by the way, but I love eating veggie). When I'm sick, I need rice. When I'm hungover, I need rice. When I'm sad, and so on.

2. What do you want to be when you grow up?

Kind. Generous. Capable.

3. What book are you reading at the moment (if any)?

Two books: The Fragrance of Guava: Conversations with Gabriel Garcia Marquez and Transit of Venus by Shirley Hazzard.

4. How do you relax?

Great question. Probably reading (books and blogs), lots of cat naps.

5. What colour are the interior walls of your home?

Off-white. I wish they had color. Ah, renting.

6. What is your guiltiest pleasure?

Girly movies. In company, I'll watch international flicks and documentaries, be all intellectual. Alone? It's Sweet Home Alabama and Dirty Dancing. Nobody puts Baby in a corner. Nobody.

7. What time is bed time and getting up time?

1 a.m., 8-ish.

8. How long do you spend reading blogs (per day or per week)?

More time than I'm willing to admit! ;) There's so much fun and inspiration out there.

I'm tagging eight people with eight questions. Here it goes:

The mix of Me-Made-Mayers, sew-alongers, Self-Stitched-September-ers (can I say that?) that I'm picking on:

Jessica of A Yen for Craft
Tasia of Sewaholic
Amy of Quixotic Pixels
Solvi of DelfinElise
Alexandra of Alexandra Mason
Nancy at $25 Vintage
Lisette of Vintage or Bust
The Sew Convert

And eight questions. I'm so focused on wardrobe -- sorry folks, my focus in the blogosphere!

1. What song never fails to move you?

2. What's your sewing threshold? As in, what will you let go, what must you absolutely fix?

3. What's your "desert island" book/movie and why could you read/watch it over and over?

4. What garment/accessory do you wear the most?

5. What wouldn't you be caught dead in?

6. Your motto/mantra?

7. A designer you consistently like and why?

8. Something about you we wouldn't expect from reading your blog?

:)

Summer Essential: The Ruby Shorts (or, Notes from a survivor)

I know, I know, I’m so dramatic. “Notes from a survivor?” Geez. But seriously, these shorts kicked me you-know-where.

I’ve been oogling the Ruby Shorts on BurdaStyle for months and so when Lisette announced her sew-along I jumped on it even though I knew I wasn’t going to be able to make the timeline. I figured this pattern would be not too easy and not too hard and I was emboldened by how easily my graduation dress, Burda 7494, came together. Plus I have a fabulous new sewing machine which I’ll introduce you to sometime, but I also had to learn, through this project, how to use it.

Everything that could go wrong went wrong, all of them due to the fact that I had no idea how these shorts were put together, the BurdaStyle instructions that left much to the imagination and sewing in a half-unpacked apartment. It was the kind of thing that would’ve been easily rectified if I could supplement the instructions with my sewing experience.

Bad news: I don’t have any applicable sewing experience.

Good news: Now I do.

Then the buttons! I spent way too much time obsessing over what color buttons I should use. I’m realizing that I prefer basic clothes (I’m shy of lots of color and print, though I’m working on it) so I’m trying to play up style elements that make a garment special. I liked the high contrast of black on the cream, but then I saw this restyling of the Colette Beignet skirt:



Ah! The colors. But I couldn’t find any buttons I liked so I went back to black. I own the Beignet pattern, so I figured I can always sew it again with this coloring.


[Forgive the wrinkles -- I actually pressed them after seeing these photos and permanently damaged a small bit of the fabric -- oops! So wrinkled photos it is!]

In the end, I have a shorter, tighter version of the Ruby Shorts minus the belt, welt pocket, and I added two pockets on the back (rather than 1) without the flap and I adjusted the pocket to be more of a jeans-style pocket that comes to a point. Note that I flat-lined them, and am so glad I did because of the color and see-through potential.



And after all that grief? I sort of love them. Though the shorts are not perfect, the fit is. Tight, but it’ll stay on the ol’ bum. And this definitely has summer essential quality.

And, in regard to my essential criteria:

• Does it meet the rule of three? Yes! It’ll match nearly all my tops except white
• Does the pattern have remake potential? Yes! I’ve already got some leftover denim put aside for Pair #2. And I'll do it right this time.
  
• Did you use fabric from your stash? Yes! Thrifted cream gabardine which put me back about two bucks. Patterns, fabric and notions, total cost: $7.
• Will this be able to replace something you love less? Yes, I donated this pair of shorts. They were too tight in the leg and dyed, and I worried about the dye getting everywhere in the wash so I never wore them.

So, here’s my addendum to the BurdaStyle instructions. This is more for my benefit in Round Two, but thought I’d post in case it’s useful to others.

• Cut pieces 1-6.

Pieces 1-2, adjust crotch (mine were a wee bit snug); draw the hemline 3-1/2 inches from crotch (that includes seam allowance) + another 3 1/2 inches to fold over/under; take in each side of each pant leg 3/8-inch from lap to hemline (this tightening gave my shorts a straighter look as the original width, shortened, made the cuffs stick out at the side as if they were growing horns, imo).

Add a bit of seam allowance (5/8) to back waistband on the outer edge (Piece 4) to make sure there’s enough to accommodate the underlap.

Alter or supplement pocket (Piece 10), Cut 2. I’ll probably use another pocket piece from Sew U as these are a bit small and ride fairly high.

• Interface pieces 3-6
• Make rear darts
• Make pockets, attach
• [Corresponding to Step 9, thank goodness for photos!] Attach front FACING (not waistband) to front of shorts. This’ll be the bit with the buttonholes. Then attach the UNDERLAP (not waistband) to the rear of shorts, this is where the buttons go.

Stitch up sides from bottom to lap, then baste from lap to top

Finish facing and underlap. Do not stitch buttonholes (I’m saving this for last to make sure they’re evenly spaced with the single buttonhole on the waistband, as they weren’t in my version)

• Sew inside pant leg seams, front center seam
• [In step 11, they’re actually talking about the real waistband] Sew front waistband
• Sew center back seam (twice! That's one seam I definitely don't want ripping)
  
• Sew/attach back waistband
• Now make the buttonholes, making sure they’re evenly spaced. I was worried about button size, but now that I’ve made them, I’d use anywhere between 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch (these are 3/4, a wee bit large).
• Do cuff. I didn’t want to have the seams show on the outside, as it would have if I folded the cuffs up, so I used this cuff method, though I probably should’ve just folded under and sewn.
• Sew on buttons
• Look fabulous

:)

Our Participant List!

Just wanted to let you fine sewing ladies know that I've whipped up our participants list and it can be found here. As of today, there's 42, wow!

I figured it was easiest to have a static page that has all the sew-along info including the introduction, the participants, the Flickr group and the Widget, so I can edit/add as we go along.

I did my best to transcribe your names and blogs correctly with the info I had, but please let me know if you need me to make any changes: Add, delete or change names, blogs, Flickr names, etc. I'd like to both promote you and respect your privacy, depending on your wishes. Feel free to leave me a comment here or email me at ustreetmove AT gmail DOT com.

I've been a bit MIA because I've been sewing. The Ruby Shorts are done! I'll be shamelessly showing them off my first essential in my next post. :)

My Summer Essentials

Thanks to all the wonderful sewists who have signed up for the Summer Essentials Sew-Along! Folks are already posting their lists of essentials and photos in the Flickr group and seeing everyone’s plans not only fills me with inspiration, but it’s stirring that little bundle of desire inside of me. My internal dialogue goes something like this:

Oooh, pretty print!
And a playsuit!
Look at the collar on these blouses!
Focus. You already have your own list of essentials.
Ah, but this dress!
Focus, Ali. Seriously.
Maybe I can alter the leg on those capris.

Sigh. So I decided I’d post my essentials list or I’d be ready to scrap everything all together and just sew whatever I can’t resist at the moment. Strangely, it’s the weather that’s keeping me focused. It’s been very hot here, and it’s only going to be reaching closer and closer to 100 degrees, and I can only bear to wear the few things I own that are cool and most are a little blah style-wise. It definitely reiterates the fact that I’ll need more to get me through the summer stylishly.

I know I’ve talked about my space- and fabric-issues elsewhere on this blog, but I chose my essentials with these thoughts vaguely in mind:

• The garment meets the “rule of three”: It will match with three things I already own, no orphans here. Dresses don’t count, but I should at least foresee wearing it at least three times. I’ve made two dresses and only worn them each once. I don’t go that many places that require prettiness.
• The patterns are classic yet versatile and so have high re-make potential.
• Brownie points if I can make it using fabric from my stash.
• Extra brownie points if, upon placing the new handmade item in the closet, I donate something from it that I don’t really love and probably never wear.

To the list!

Clam Diggers & Co.


BurdaStyle Ruby Shorts in cream gabardine and shiny, black(?) buttons. These are very near completion, hallelujah. I’m finishing the back waistband and need to do the cuffs.

Sweet & Sassy Skirt, The Sun Dress





These are both a direct nod to my MMM compatriots. The skirt, McCalls 5803, has been sewn by Tasia at least three times. And I was introduced to the dress pattern (Burda 7829, Version C) through Jodi’s blog; she's sewn an army of them.

There are many more skirt and dress patterns I’m coveting, but these are both full-skirted, which means breezy walking! No restrictions while sitting! To me, both of these patterns have classic appeal. They’re feminine without being frilly. Skirt in blue, perhaps a very dark navy, and dress in a maroon batik, inspired by this dress from The Sew Weekly.

Tees, Tunics & Blouses



As soon as I found this 1950s pattern in an antique shop in Boulder Creek, Calif., I knew it was just what I needed. I plan on sewing version 3 in white, and I’ll try version 4 in a print if I have time. I think this’ll be so, so versatile. It’ll go with all my existing bottoms and my full skirt.



Part of Cecili’s Sew-Along, this Japanese top will be nice and airy. Once I draw the pattern tomorrow, I'll have a better idea of what this might look like and the fit. But so far I like the clean lines and the charcoal gray fabric (from the boy’s stash; he sews a bit too) is drape-y.

Poolside Pretty



I can’t believe I’m going to attempt this, but I really have no swimsuit I’ve ever really loved. If I’m going to be that exposed, I want to feel confident. This swimsuit is a one-piece but with nice design elements that make it look stylish. I’m still deciding on the fabric, probably stripes or dots.

Those Summer Nights

I’m going to attempt to self-draft a pattern for a red cardigan with big black (or white, something high-contrast) buttons using two patterns from the Sew U series, but this 1960s pattern (top left image, pattern available on Etsy) reflects a bit of what I have in mind with a raglan sleeve. A 3/4 length sleeve, body length falling between the waist and the hip.



Whew! I feel back on track. I’m excited about all of these and I know I’ll use them lots. I'm sure I'll veer away from this list and then find my way back. I'm already getting exposed to wonderful patterns, color combinations, and prints (I’m still shy in this area!) on the Flickr group. So I may swap one out, but we'll wait 'til we get there!

So yes, feel free to change your lists as we go along. This is all about five things YOU need this summer.

Stay tuned, I'll whip up a list of our fabulous participants. Happy sewing!

Summer Essentials Sew-Along: Flickr Group and Blog-Bling (Or, the Widget)

The list of Sew-Alongers (I'm going to use that shamelessly as a noun this summer) keeps growing! I'll be posting a full list in a few days, but keep 'em coming.

Flickr Group

I've created a Flickr Group for us, but I'm still trying to figure out how to add members. I think we can do it one of two ways. (Let me know if there's something else that works!)

1) Go to http://www.flickr.com/groups/summeressentialssewalong2010/ and click on "Join?" I imagine I'll receive a request which I'll then approve.

2) Send me an email at ustreetmove AT gmail dot com with your Flickr-associated email address and I'll send you an invite.

The group is public, but you need to be a member to post photos and read/add to the discussion board (we can change that, if you prefer). I've started a discussion thread on intros and your essentials. Join the convo!

Widget

Also, here's the code for the widget, if you'd like to sport it on your blog. I've also posted a little form with the code on the right column of this blog.

<a href="http://wardrobereimagined.blogspot.com/2010/06/summer-essentials-sew-along.html"><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_I-CzWcBy9lc/TAbfmL6IpaI/AAAAAAAAAb4/_PPmcc1KIQQ/S220/ses2close_small.jpg" width="180" /></a>

Note that I've changed the width from 220 to 180 to be more universal in our blog layouts. If it's still too big, just adapt the width="xxx" to whatever you wish, the height will change automatically.

I'm already starting to see some posts! Very exciting :)

Summer Essentials Sew-Along!

[Update 6/7: I've added a page that combines all of the Summer Essentials Sew-Along information, including this post, the list of participants, the Flickr group and the widget here.]


Those mourning the end of May, I present to you: Summer! We’re talking sunshine and sun dresses. Wowza.

As mentioned in my last post, some lovely Me-Made-May ladies were game for a summer sew-along. My idea was this: Instead of sewing willy-nilly, I’d concoct a loose plan of things I’d really need/use this summer. Otherwise, knowing my mode-of-operation, I’d be waylaid by every pretty pattern or piece of fabric, whereas Me-Made-May taught me the value of both having solid essentials in your closet that play nice with their RTW companions and also filling the gaps in my closet.

In an effort to be as laid back as summer heat inspires, the Summer Essentials Sew-Along asks participants to sew five(-ish) warm-weather friendly pieces by August(-ish), ‘cause wouldn’t you rather spend August looking fabulous in your homemade threads? The goal: Stock your closet with quality summer basics. The benefit: A group of sewers who will encourage and inspire you, not to mention talk you off the ledge when you need it (this may be me, ladies, when I attempt the swimsuit)!

To me, there are six categories of summer wear. Feel free to add to this, but this is just to start us thinking of what you need/want.

Poolside Pretties: Anything that cools or dries you off when there’s lots of sun and water around. One and two-piece swimsuits, swimsuit cover-ups, surf shorts, sun hats, oh my! One versatile swimsuit cover-up I find lovely is a terry cloth dress. Double-duty, that’s what I’m talking about.

Clam Diggers & Co.: Bifurcated bottoms of every style and length, from flowing linen pants to short-shorts and all the inbetweens—clam diggers, pedal pushers, Bermuda shorts, etc.

Sweet & Sassy Skirts: Prints and solids, short and long, low-slung and high-waisted. But most of all: Airy, flirty, flattering.

The Sundress: Need I say more? To me, the perfect sun dress strikes that cord between casual and elegant—arms and collarbones, looking good barefoot or high-heeled. It’s something you can wear to both a barbecue and a summer wedding. A summer staple I’ve never owned until now.

Tees, Tunics & Blouses: Yes, please! I’m finally understanding the worth of blouses as they also strike that balance between casual/formal, totally versatile. I’m also thinking mini-dresses that do triple duty as tunics, dresses and cover-ups.

Those Summer Nights: Pullovers, cardis and hoodies may be the last thing you’re thinking of with the mercury rising, but there’s those cool summer nights, not to mention every last establishment with the air con blasting. Or: for those of you where thunderstorms are a daily summer experience, a lightweight trench?

So that’s it. I’m deficient in nearly every category so I think I’ll aim for one in each. What about you? What do you need this summer? What looks inspire you?

Here’s the list of participants, keep an eye on their progress. And if you’d like to join, just leave a comment! I’ll faithfully stalk you and your summer sewing. *Update: We have a Flickr group. Click here to join.

Amy of Quixotic Pixels
Barbara of The Flowery Skirt
DelfinElise at DelfinElise
{Hillary}
Stacy of StacyVerb
Zoe of So, Zo... (And MMM of course!)

Full list forthcoming!

Note: This sew-along will accommodate your other sew-alongs and challenges nicely! It’ll still be warm enough for some summer essentials in Zoe’s Self-Stitched September. Already mentioned, but worth another plug: Japanese top sew-along at Cecili’s Sewing and Sew On beginning Sunday. Also caught wind of a Trenchcoat Sew-Along.

I’m excited about seeing your essentials. I’ll be detailing mine in my next post.

To sewing, to summer!

*The image used in the graphic came from Millie Motts' blog. Check it out for wonderful vintage inspiration.*