Learning by Repetition: The Crewneck Pattern

In my last post, I mentioned my Pattern Project—my attempt to learn to become a better sewer by both sewing through my pattern stash and learning how to alter and draft patterns. Recently, I've been obsessed with knits. I never thought I'd have an interest or ability in sewing knits, but on this journey to find my personal style, I've discovered I really love knits. I love their movement, texture, forgiveness.

While I was out of town, I stopped at the FIDM Scholarship Store in L.A., where they had a range of beautiful knits on sale, $1/yard. I've got knits in gray, navy, fushia, red, royal blue, navy blue, gray and that print that'll make a lovely autumn dress, I think. Grand total, including several yards of wovens? $18.


Crewneck 1

So I've got lots of knits to work with! But my knit journey began in April, when I got my hands on Wendy Mullin's Sew U Homestretch. I sewed up an x-small crewneck pattern using some gray jersey. I like the casualness of raw edges, but this one didn't curl and so I tried to put on a neckband, which stood up like a soldier at attention. And so I pleated it to keep it down. I wore it during Me-Mady-May because it was one of the few me-made garments I had, but it's been in the repurpose pile all summer. Total fail.
Lessons from Crewneck 1:

• Use a machine that can take direction in the zigzag department. I sewed this on my old machine that defaulted to the widest stitch. Looks like there's skipped stitches, too. I don't have a serger but a good sewing machine is key.
  
• Sew the raw edges of the neckband together before attaching
• The neckband needs to be tighter than the opening in order to pull in the fabric and allow it to lie flat. I think this is 7/8s, and it's still not enough
• The shoulder seams indicate this is made for someone with more angular shoulders than I. I nipped in about 1/4 inch from the mid-shoulder to the neck.
• Sizing: I'd read elsewhere that these patterns run big, which is why I cut out the XS. Mullin describes this as a "slim-fit (not skintight) crewneck." The XS finished garment size is 34 at the bust (aligning with my size), and that might be a good rule of thumb for finding your size in these patterns.

Thought on t-shirt sizing: I stopped wearing skin-tight tees after having to look at how boyish I looked in them during Me-Made-May. It seems skin-tight tees showcase our flaws, but loose tees may make us look bigger than we actually are. Thoughts?

Crewneck 2:

With my new machine, I was ready to tackle knits again in July. Thought I'd try it on the boy's old tee:

Cut out an XS, things went swimmingly on m y new machine. But then I tried to do the neckband. Totally stretched out:

I noticed the jersey was curling, so I decided to go far raw edges with a scoop neck. Sew U Homestretch recommends altering the neckline 5" deep and 1" at the shoulder. Again, there's a bustier gal in mind, so I cut 3" deep, 1" at the shoulder. I also ironed on this little owl design given to me by a friend.
The truth is, I wear it a lot. It's definitely more of a house shirt, but I can run out the door and not worried I'm in my jammies.

Lessons from Crewneck 2:

• The direction of stretch really, really matters. The neckline was partly stretched out because I had used a leftover piece from the shirt that hardly stretched at all (horizontal). Add that to my overexuberance to make sure it was tight enough.
• Though they look identical, right and wrong sides of knits matter, too, especially when you leave the edges raw. Mine don't all curl in the right direction.
  

Crewneck 3

Determined to make a t-shirt with a neckband, I made up this in a size Small with some interlock. A bit rough, but very easy to work with.


Lessons from Crewneck 3:

• Though this Cal Patch tute is incredibly helpful, I found my neckband salvation from a tip in Mad Mim's Basic Fitted T-Shirt Tutorial: "Stretch the neckband about three inches, and pin about four inches down the neckline. You're stretching both, but pulling tighter on the band so that when you let go,you should see some slack in the neck opening." This gives you a 3/4 ratio, and guess what? Mine lays perfectly. Then I top stitched the seam allowance under the original stitch.
• 
• Sizing: Though I think I prefer the XS on my body, this t-shirt has been a workhorse in my closet since I finished it a few weeks ago and it's lured out garments that haven't seen much use lately, namely my skinny jeans and boyfriend blazer. There's something rock-in-roll about the looseness. It actually kind of looks like the boyfriend t-shirts I saw at Target while doing reconnaissance (take that Tarjay!). Also, I want you to imagine the Scarlett O'Hara waist that (does not) lay beneath. Smoke and mirrors!
  
• 
• Neckline: The illustrations in Sew U Homestretch are deceivingly high. The pattern has a lower neckline, showing a bit of collarbone. I altered this neckline 1.5" deep and 0.5" at shoulder, but I don't need to in future versions. I think it works here because black tends to drain me, so it's nice to have it a little further from my face.
  

Crewneck 4: Mini Me

I really wanted to play with this royal blue silk jersey (which I assume because it feels so luxurious) but also wanted to get through my Summer Essential Sew-Along List. When I discovered that I didn't have enough fabric for my planned sun dress pattern, I decided to swap it out for this jersey dress instead.

Mullin writes, "Minidresses are my secret wardrobe weapon. There's no better way to throw something on, run out of the house, and still look adorable."


The pattern alteration was so easy. Take a look:

I lengthened it by four inches and omitted the pockets, fearing this fabric might droop. My summer essential. I could live in this thing, it's so darn comfy:

Lessons from Crewneck 4:

• I need to improve on: Trimming away bulk and attaching the neckband/facing that tended to slip about. Since taking this photo, I'm picking apart the facing and intend to widen it, use a sturdier interface, and sewing it to the wrong side, then turning and top stitching to the outside. This, I think, will give it a little more visual interest and ease the sewing.

Ideas for the T-shirt dress:
This basic pattern has so much possibility. I'll likely keep my current version very simple since I love the color, but here's some future considerations.

• This would work really well with interlock, given the sturdiness. It would also work well with a variety of necklines: crew, scoop, boat.
• Play with sleeves: Sleeveless, or tighten sleeves to cap, half or 3/4 length
• Play with color: If using a facing that turns to the outside, use a contrasting color or a print to give the dress more texture. Or, contrast color in the neckline, sleevebands, hem, and edge of pockets!
  
• Elastic at the bust to create gathers at Center Front, or just below the bust to create a faux-empire waist.
  

I've moved on to the raglan pattern. More soon, and happy sewing!

The Pattern Project: My Self-Education

Sewing has been a wonderful, ongoing lesson in the age-old art of garment-making, my personal style, color and detail, body types, vintage clothing and clothing trends in general, and the ethics and psychology surrounding every step in the garment-process from maker to consumer. Challenges and pledges including Me-Made-May, the Summer Essentials Sew-Along, Self-Stitched September, the Ethical Clothing Pledge and the Uniform Project LBD Pledge have inspired me to continue sewing, to keep exploring my relationship to the items that equip me. It’s about function, aesthetic, and social and personal value.


Like others, I have more sewing patterns than I could possibly sew in the foreseeable future. Some I’ve bought for 25 cents, others for $10. And I still want more. The web is chock full of patterns—vintage and contemporary—that make me feel like just one (or two or three) more pattern(s) may revolutionize my wardrobe and my sewing. When I often find myself clicking to buy, say, yet another A-line dress from the 60s like the one above, I have to remind myself that all this new pattern offers from one in my stash is a new neckline (or sleeve detail, etc) that I can either draft (if I was so inclined) or Frankenstein from another pattern.

Enter the Pattern Project. I’ve developed this personal challenge based on the following ideas/beliefs:

• Most patterns are variations on basic shapes. Basic shapes + a little creativity = Limitless possibilities. Thus, learning more about how pattern blocks are altered to create a slew of different styles, not to mention understanding how a two-dimensional pattern flatters our 3-D bodies (or how our 3-D bodies are translated into 2-D patterns), can only benefit my sewing
• I am already inclined toward altering and drafting, as I am often incapable of slavishly following pattern instructions and frequently change details and maniacally fret over fit.
• I am more likely to achieve a good fit and a much better quality garment using a pattern I’ve previously made. Frustrations are already dealt with and time to completion is massively quicker.
• Buying more patterns that largely duplicate what I already own does not necessarily help my sewing, no matter how much I'd love to have a collection of beautiful, vintage patterns
• Utilizing what I already own will help keep costs and clutter down, in addition to forcing me to be creative
  

And so, the Pattern Project will be an effort to use the following:

• My existing pattern stash (I’d guess I have about 30-40 patterns, half of which are vintage)

• Sew U: The Built by Wendy Guide to Making Your Own Wardrobe. Includes basic patterns for a skirt (with four variations), shirt, and pants (with three variations each). Three basic patterns=13 possibilities
• Sew U Homestretch: The Built By Wendy Guide to Sewing Knit Fabrics. Includes patterns for a crewneck, a raglan, and dress, all with 6 variations. Three basic patterns=21 possibilities
• Built By Wendy Dresses: The Sew U Guide to Making a Girl’s Best Frock. Includes three basic dress patterns—the sheath, the shift, and the drindl—for a total of 25 possible dresses.


• Cal Patch’s Design-It-Yourself Clothes: Patternmaking Simplified. I am so, so excited about this book and drafting patterns based on my own measurements. Includes instructions on drafting an A-Line Skirt, a t-shirt, a button-down shirt, a basic dress and basic pant, plus three variations for each. So four basic patterns=16 possibilities.
• The BurdaStyle book when it comes out next year, featuring some of the web's finest sewers and their designs.
  

I believe this project will work for me because I largely wear very simple clothes. It will help me focus on refining construction and the different behaviors of fabrics and fit rather than re-inventing the wheel each time I sew.

Many, I imagine, would find such a project unsatisfactory, especially those who collect patterns. Vintage patterns, specifically, have a great deal to teach me in terms of details and fit (darts and such) but I find I lack some of the expected sewing know-how of patterns from previous eras, not to mention I’m unwilling to wear vintage-esque foundation garments that make my waist spindly or my breasts pointy. The ones I already own, I think, are a wonderful start.

And I should mention that the goal is not to stop buying patterns, but to become a better sewer. There will be the occasional indulgence, of course, but when I do buy patterns, I’d like it to teach me something new. And I’d like to make a more concerted effort to support independent companies like Colette Patterns and I’ve already snatched up the Uniform Project LBD (pattern pieces pictured above), whose mission I believe in. [Note: Len would like to do a UP LBD sew-along in late August for Self-Stitched September. Talk about a wardrobe essential! I'll join in the fun if I can :)]

Though this project is personal—bespeaking of the skill and restraint I seek—I invite you to join me, even if you'd simply like an excuse to start sewing through your impressive pattern stash or are itching to get through some sewing/drafting books on your shelf. :) I’ll be measuring, tracing, drawing, slashing and spreading and detailing my journey here. I’ll also be posting to two wonderful Flickr groups of like-minded folk, Built by Us, for the Sew U/Built by Wendy patterns, and Design-It-Yourself Clothes for Cal Patch’s book (she even answers questions in the discussion board!).

So here’s to the endless possibilities of simple, well-fitting garments for daily wear! Let the games begin. ☺

Ruby Blues: My Favorite Essential

When I finished my first pair of Ruby Shorts, I immediately altered the pattern, given my lessons about fit and length, and cut out another pair using some leftover herringbone denim from another BurdaStyle project, the Marie skirt, that I made in March. I already loved the pattern, but I can say that this version—Ruby in dark blue denim with red buttons—is my hands down favorite summer essential (and perhaps project overall) that I've made yet.

I've made the pattern before, so in this version, there's no wonky evidence of things-gone-wrong and no crotch-fit-issues. These shorts reflect what I'm going for in my personal style: Basic with a little flair. The fabric is a dark denim, so it has basics-quality and pairs with everything. It's very loosely woven and lightweight to boot, so it's perfect for summer. Still, the herringbone weave gives it a little texture for visual interest, and the red button closure gives it that spark of color that adds without taking away from its versatility, not to mention a little retro stylin'. When I walked out the door for their virgin run after taking these photos, a man on a bike told me, "You look really nice." Aw.

Here's the front. I figured out the cuff, which eluded me in the first version. In this one, I folded under (to the wrong side) a 1/4 inch, then again 1 1/2 inches and stitched all the way around, enclosing the raw edges. Then I folded the entire thing up (to the right side, 1 1/2 inches hem/cuff) and stitched in place. I think a cuff adds a bit of elegance/formality to casual shorts, and this inseam, about 3 inches, is perfect for my body as it gives me a bit of leg without giving away the cow for free, if you know what I mean.

Here's the rear. I swapped out the small pockets in the original pattern for a rounded pocket from Sew U. Needless to say, they were wider than the original and thus, far too spread apart. I actually tried to remove them once I saw them on the ol' okole, but with the loose weave, I risked tearing the whole thing apart. So, it's a lesson for next time, when I'll sew them closer together, and will likely a jeans-style pocket because I'm not too good topstitching around the rounded corners.
Finally, my favorite, the side view. In the last version, the buttons weren't equally spread apart, so I fixed that here. It feels much more balanced, and the waistband hits a few inches below my belly button, both giving me comfort when I sit and balancing out a short-waist.

Though I presumably used the same pattern, this version is looser than the other even though this is a non-stretch denim and the first was gabardine. Is this normal? Though I admittedly fiddled with the first so much, so who knows if I took in the side seams more than I noted, making the first tighter.

Either way, these shorts—and the pattern—are keepers. So excited I have shorts I love for August and September! Definitely essential quality. :)

Sewing in the Time of the Internet

While I was away, the boy called to inform me my sewing machine felt neglected. Indeed, it was the most rest it’s received from the beginning of the summer, though my output would suggest otherwise. It’s nearing August and I’ve still got three things on my Summer Essentials Sew-Along List: The sun dress, the cardigan, and the swimsuit.

I typically pride myself on my self-reliance, but this trip—in which I helped my sister move her three kids across an ocean—tested my will. I got very good at jacking up vehicles, the John Deere in the middle of the desert, my car in the California Grapevine. We mounted an electrical wire the utility company wouldn’t touch. Heat. Boxes. Coyotes. Ships. Planes. Dust. Diapers. Did I mention the heat?

Needless to say, I returned exhausted. A long way of saying: No way I’m going to make the Aug. 1 deadline for the sew-along. “By August,” is becoming “through August.” What about the rest of you?

It’s tempting, two months in, to look at the list and be completely uninterested and move on (I have a very short attention span). But I’m glad I made it as it’s motivating me to make these “essentials” that are otherwise lacking in my closet and I’ll use them lots in August and Self-Stitched September.

Anyhoo, I came home to my sewing machine and this lovely package in the mail from Zoe. How awesome is this? I’d been oogling the one she’d given away for her giveaway that I’m sure is now proudly owned by a very clever woman. I love the color, the sixties flair. It’s been making it’s way with me around town. The inside is a matching gingham. Most of all, I love that it’s handmade, not to mention by someone I know and respect. Thanks, Zoe!



And, right before I left, I had the pleasure of hanging out with Jessica from A Yen for Craft who was in the area visiting fam. My blog life and my real life intersected and it was brilliant. She arrived in Simplicity 3835 and I in McCalls 5803. What sewing geeks are we! Let me show her off:



Note that it’s self-made bias tape and that she cut the back and front in different sizes, which I’d just heard about on a sewing podcast while driving, which eliminates some back fit issues. Definitely knowledge to file in the old noggin. Anyone else have luck with this?

Also, related sewing inspiration:

This is the list that Amy of Quixotic Pixels was kind enough to share during Me-Made-May, “Sewing with Knits,” and I’ve returned to it lots while sewing knits.

This is an oft-recommended tute on sewing a classic neckband, which I’ve been using with increasing success. It’s also by Cal Patch, one of my recent sewing/designer crushes.

Reader Anne K. mentioned she started a podcast, GreenStitch, about refashioning and eco-sewing. An invite to you (who are far more sewing-savvy than I!): “if anyone has a particularly cool refashioning technique or project or passion, let me know and I will gladly interview you as a podcast guest!”

Speaking of eco-friendly, I’m seriously considering the Ethical Clothing Pledge began at IsisMade. Those who take it, pledge to wear clothes that are one or more of the following: Pre-loved, Handmade, Reconstructed, Made with ethical / environmentally friendly materials, and Made by a company with strong ethical policy & workers' rights. The Ethical Clothing Pledge was discovered through the Remade in Melbourne blog, where I also stumbled upon a book I’ve been enjoying, Style Statement.

I know I’m late to this party, but I’m totally inspired by the Uniform Project: One dress, 365 days, and all proceeds of this adventure went to help fund uniforms and expenses for schoolchildren in India.

Uniform Project Picture Book from The Uniform Project on Vimeo.

And what’s even cooler? The pattern for this amazingly versatile dress is for sale here. I’m so buying this. Let me just get through August and September or I’ll never sew that swimsuit.

I never would have come across all of these people and concepts and movements if it wasn’t for the Internet that's largely blamed for disconnecting us. Sorry for the mish-mash post, I've actually got some sewing to share with you, but I was feeling sentimental and so excited to be among you.

I thank you for your collective awesomeness.

Knit Know-How

After my jaunt with woven tops I'm diving into knits to prep me for the cardigan and the swimsuit on my essentials list.

Unfortunately, I've been on the road for the past week, driving up and down California helping with a family member's major move. I have to laugh at what a sewing geek I've become, as not only did I pack Cal Patch's Design-It-Yourself Clothes and two sewing patterns to cut, but I loaded up my iPod with sewing podcasts for the drive.

I stumbled across Sew Forth Now and I found this particular episode, "All About Knits," incredibly helpful. I like to listen to podcasts or audiobooks as I sew as well, so I thought I'd recommend it to anyone interested. Find it here.

In this long interview, sewing teacher Sarah Veblen discusses:

• The difference between give and stretch and how different knits behave
• The best needles to use (her preference, in order: Stretch, Universal, than Ballpoint)
• How patterns for bias-cut wovens translate nicely to knits
• The possibility of translating patterns for wovens to knits using the finished size of your bust or hip (i.e., a skirt pattern whose finished size, as printed on the pattern, equals your hip size)
• And more!
  

If you have any other recommendations for knits, I'd love to hear them. I'm still battling with getting a t-shirt neckband to lay nicely (in my two attempts, it either stands up or is stretched out), but I think I'm getting closer :)

That's all for now: On the road again. I look forward to settling back at home and catching up on sewing and blogging. Happy sewing everyone!

The Would-Be Essential

Simplicity 3263 from the 50s seems to be a favorite. How can you resist that low neck, that peter pan collar? Oh!


I got it completely by happenstance, snagged from a bottom drawer at an antique store overflowing with items. My first whack at the pattern (a refashion in my last post) went relatively well. But, the white blouse (Version 3) is a bit of a disappointment. :( Here's a not-terrible photo:


One of the things I've loved about tops-sewing is that they've come together so easily and quickly. Like my attempt before this (Version 4), I love the shape: blouse-y around the bust a bit more fitted from waist to hip. This vintage pattern has introduced me to the beauty of darts to shape a garment to your body.



Another plus of this vintage style is the lowered neck in the back. This is such a sultry feature that I wish more contemporary styles had.



But that's where it ends. I think the main culprit is that I've used some stash fabric that was far too lightweight and it sort of wavers in all the wrong places. The neck and the shoulders are also more generous than indicated in the pattern photo. Here's a photo of the top without perfect posture. Ugh.



It looks like the bust is possibly too small, but the pattern's actually a size smaller than my own above the waist. And the darts lay perfectly as long as I stay stock-still. A top I have to fix every time I stand up is not my idea of an essential. Boo. And then I obsessed over getting the collar exactly even since the lapels are so large, which resulted in some collar issues in the FO. Lessons, I suppose, for next time.

And though this matches my full skirt perfectly and doesn't do bad with a slim-leg jean or capris, it feels a bit too young or wholesome for me (as in, Santa-I've-been-good-this-year). Truth be told, I've never found a white collared shirt I've liked, even though it's supposedly a wardrobe staple for all. I've thought about trying it with a contrasting fabric (or even print), or perhaps in a darker color with the peter pan collar piped around the lower edge.

Onto my essential criteria:

• Does it meet the rule of three? As in, will it match at least three other items in my closet? Yes.
• Does the pattern have remake potential? Absolutely! I may opt to make the collar a little smaller, but the body shaping of the darts is worth copying alone.
• Did you use fabric from your stash? Yes, a very lightweight cotton. I need to go heavier next time, perhaps something linen-like.

I'm looking forward to seeing some other versions on this pattern. I know Tilly snatched it up, keep your eyes peeled for her version!

Besides a better fabric choice, is there anything you'd recommend to bring this top into its pattern-image potential during round two? Any guidance would be much, much appreciated.

Wishing you (more) fruitful sewing! :)

The Tops Progress Report: New Look 6965 and a Refashion

My full skirt sent me wandering down the aisles of body-shape pondering and top-love. Since I've been verbose on the former, I thought I'd share some images of the latter.

This is a pattern I bought in early June. With our summer sew-along, I thought this may help me get me through the summer and have some threads for Self-Stitched September. I liked that it was sleeveless, showing arm and collarbone while having a higher than average neckline and gathering around the bust. Also, in version D, the straps are nearly wide enough to hide a bra strap.



Top 1, NL 6965, Version D:


If you look close enough, the print might look familiar. You just may be sleeping on it ;) It's an old Ikea pillowcase. What can I say? I'm print shy and I liked this because it was both simple and small. Baby steps.

Top 2: NL 6965, Version A:



This fabric is part of the yards of various fabrics gifted to me by a friend for my graduation dress. This toile ended up being used for the dress's peter pan collar. The pattern calls for ribbon, but I made the tie-straps using the same fabric.

In terms of fit, both of these were adapted to give me a little more curve on the side seams. I traced the side of a women's button-down shirt, and that helped the top from being less bag-like while still being loose, comfortable and it pulls over my head. Hooray for no fancy closures! (There's a button in the back.)

Refashion
Remember this lovely pattern from the 50s?


The last time I tackled a vintage pattern with a collar, the result was hideous. It's still sitting in a bag way, way back in my closet so the chances of me encountering it is close to nil. So I thought I'd take a whack at the pattern before I planned to do the white-collared version.

I have this awful 80s top that I found in my aunt's garage with the tags still on. It had enormous shoulder pads, size: All.



But I thought the print had potential. I honestly thought this was a woven until I cut into it. It's a thick and a bit rough knit.


And here's Simplicity 3263, Version D:


I love the blousiness (I say it's a word) in the back. The four darts in the front bodice and two in back hugs the lower torso, leaving it roomy on top. Perfect for tucking, but I think it has a nice shape to remain untucked as well. I made a straight 32 (I should be a 34) but between the knit and a seam allowance decrease to 1 cm, it fits just fine (and no closure, either!)



There's more on the sewing table, but these mark my foray into woven tops and print!

Happy sewing :)

Short-waisted?

Several of you commented, in regard to the way you wear skirts, that you are short-waisted, which seems synonymous with high-waisted or having a short torso. So I began to wonder if I was short-waisted as well, and how this effects what we wear and how we alter what we sew.

In sewing patterns, I always assumed I had to take into account my small bust, since most are made with a B-cup in mind. I'd assume this meant the twins "pulled" up the fabric, and on me, with a smaller cup size, that resulted in a lower garment waist. It hadn't dawned on me that my waist may actually be shorter than average.

According to what I've read (here and here), you can tell you're short or long waisted if the underarm-waist:waist-bottom of bum and/or head-waist:waist-floor ratio is unequal.

So I used a yard-stick, since we're talking figure ratios and not curves. The first ratio is 9:12 and the second 23:40. So I am short-waisted!

Funny, I also measured the length from my natural waist to where I like my jean/trouser waistband, and it's 3-4 inches, just about halfway on my torso. Perhaps I've been unconsciously choosing items that balance my figure, even though I assumed they were "high waisted" because I can only find them in the Old Lady Section of the store (as my baby sister calls it), on the one rack labeled, "Classic." [Am I the only one who finds the super-low slung jeans disturbing? They seem to intensify muffin-top and undies-flashing probability. I mean, if you need a Brazillian just to wear them, they're simply too low.]

From the Dummies.com site, here's a photo that emphasizes the short-waist in comparison:



And here's a visual depiction of a suggestion on how and why you should balance a short-waist:



I agree with those of you who say that these fashion-rules are made to be broken. I, however, am finding that I'm approaching style the way I learned to cook. I begin with a recipe and, once I understand the basics, experiment freely from there. So, first, what's the recipe to make a short-waisted woman look proportional?

The idea is to visually lower the waistline and to lessen all that leg. These suggestions vary widely, but they include: Opting for a lower waistline in bottoms, untucked shirts and/or sweaters and jackets that fall at the hip. Sounds like contemporary, casual fashion to me. And maybe in that way we're lucky.

Yet, for those of us who are interested in retro styles, this brings up a problem. Most styles, I'm thinking the 40s and the 50s specifically, highlight the natural waist. But on a short-waisted woman, that line is closer to the bust, conceivably making her look out of proportion.

So, what do you do? If you're short-waisted, how do you accommodate it? When you sew, do you shorten the torso to your natural waist or do you let the waist linger lower creating a visual balance? (In some styles, though, wouldn't you want to show off all that tres feminine hip?)

To complicate matters, a short-waist is only one issue. In my last post, I focused on trying to find clothes that flatter my square-shape frame. So I throw in a small bust and a short-waist to the mix, each with different and sometimes conflicting suggestions, i.e. a square-shaped gal should wear big, clunky belts to emphasize the waist but a short-waist gal should avoid them at all costs.

I suppose this is what makes fashion—and all the control we have over it through sewing—such a fun journey. We need a little playfulness to find a style that works on our unique bodies (Toria wrote a wonderful post on the topic here). My full skirt, for example, may be a no-no with a short-waist but I'd like to think that the fullness hides the bottom of my torso, leaving me leggy (which I like!). That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.

But I'd love to know: What works for you?

:)