Pretty Much the Perfect Garment

Thanksgiving: By far my favorite holiday. Not only do I love gathering together with family and food, but it's a wonderful respite from other matters and, with the four day weekend, time to indulge.

For me, that meant lots of sewing between meals. In fact, I finished a garment before the holiday weekend as I telecommuted on Wednesday. I woke up early enough, altered the Sew U Homestretch dress pattern and cut out the pieces. After work, I whipped it up on both my sewing machine and serger and within a few hours it was ready to wear! Talk about low investment, high reward.


Oh, I just love this dress and this pattern. I altered the pattern for a full skirt as part of my Shelley Dress and recently rekindled my interest when I saw Knottygnome's LBD using this same pattern. As Wendy Mullin writes in the book:

A dress made of knit fabric is pretty much the perfect garment. You can stretch out in it, curl up in it, and take twelve hour plane rides in it. ... Why wouldn't you want to own multiple versions?

I originally planned to make this in a navy rayon knit, thinking it would be the most versatile given what I've got in my stash. But the thought of dealing with rayon's moody sewing-nature and its slinkiness in a fairly fitted dress filled me with dread. Instead, I opted to use a green thrifted knit that feels like sweatshirt knit without a furry back. I believed I paid $2 for the 2-yard piece, and I've got a 1/2 yard leftover.

Using a size small, I shortened the length by three inches, did my usual square shoulder adjustment, and altered the long puff sleeves to fall three inches from my armpit with a 3/4 inch band. I also redrew the neckline, 3 inches deeper and 1/4 inch (on each side) wider, which I finished with clear elastic sewn onto the wrong side, and folded over and stitched again to encase the elastic.


It fits me perfectly! And Mullin's right: I can stretch out, curl up and manage long distances while still looking put together. And though I've never thought I'd be one for puff sleeves, they're so flattering on my rectangular frame.


Moreso, it's a perfect palate. Above, I'm sporting fuschia tights and black heels. Later that day, I threw on thigh-high striped socks with mary janes and a chunky scarf. Think of all the possibilities of color and texture with cardigans, tights/socks, and scarves! Dress up, dress down, no problem. This'll definitely be my go-to travel dress.

Here's the back. I think the fact that I have swayback is unavoidable given this evidence. I also have slight scoliosis, so it's hightime I learn how to make these adjustments.


The side view. Meh.


There's one thing I find worrisome, which is that my serger, after changing out the threads from black to cream, wasn't functioning perfectly and so some of my seams look like this:

It probably has to do with tensions, which I'm still learning to do. When I try to go over these seams with a zigzag on my regular machine (to guard against peepshow potential!) it causes the knit to pucker. Boo. But I've worn it twice and not a stitch awry. Keep your fingers crossed for me. :0

Needless to say, I'm excited to make more of these "pretty much perfect" garments. The beauty of this pattern is that it has a separate bodice and skirt, which can be altered easily for multiple variations. Here's the ones offered in Sew U Homestretch:


But I'm also on the lookout for other knit dress patterns. I've seen Vogue 1027 done up beautifully by Jessica and Rachel. Any others you'd recommend?

Happy Sunday :)

Anthropologie by Ali (the Tarra Cardigan)

I have a love-hate relationship with Anthropologie. On one hand, I love what many love about them: They really are the only major retailer that has consistently unique and cute and interesting clothes, with a focus on design details virtually absent elsewhere. Their clothes transport me to a place that's more feminine and luxurious and colorful than what I'm accustomed to; I begin to imagine their clothes are necessary training wheels for the gamine-in-me dying to get out.

I'd go so far to say there's a romance about Anthropologie. Embroidery, ruffles, swirling skirts, and to-die-for cardigans: A girl could reinvent herself.

But I discovered Anthropologie at about the same time I began to sew, and I can't help but critique the quality of their clothes. With the exception of prints and their heavier wools, you could purchase most of the fabrics at any local fabric store. What Anthropologie does best, in my opinion, is design. Their clothes really excel at all the little details that make something special (and can be easily replicated!). So if the fabrics aren't extraordinary and the details are easily replicated, is it worth the hundreds of dollars you'll likely drop shopping there? Is the product-money exchange even?

Coming right after my post about American Apparel's Circle Scarf, I feel a bit like I'm company-bashing, but that's not my intent. The DIY-movement, to me, is all about empowerment. We can define value rather than having a company or a culture tell us what's valuable. We can exercise our skills to recreate the things we admire. We are makers.


But when I saw my dear friend Tarra wearing Anthropologie's Breezy Ride cardigan (above), I found myself trolling the internet to snatch one for myself within a day's time. It was classic and playful and gamine-esque in all the right ways. The chiffon yoke! The bow! The contrast buttons! Sigh.

I'd been converted.

But I dilly-dallied on purchasing the sweater, which was on sale for $48 down from $99 and when I'd finally decided to get it, it had sold out. So I did what any self-respecting DIYer would do. I went to the thrift store and bought a v-neck black sweater (of which there were slim pickings) and an oversized polka-dot chiffon blouse (unfortunately I couldn't find navy chiffon, as in the original, so I got black). I also bought mustard-colored buttons.



Construction:

Not cutting the v-band, I measured 4 inches from the shoulder seam on both the front and back of the sweater, marking horizontal lines for the yoke. I cut 1/4 inch from the edge of the v-band and sleeve seams, leaving this extra fabric for seam allowance.


Then, I laid the cut yoke on top of the blouse's shoulder seam, traced it, and cut 1/4 inch larger than those traced lines (for seam allowance). Attaching the chiffon and sweater knit was tricky, but in the end I hand-sewed it, then straight-stitched it on my machine, then serged the edges.

I made the bow using one of the blouse sleeves, creating two strips measuring about 2.5 x 13 inches (I'd make them a bit longer next time, say 16 inches), with a diagonal edge on one end, two inches in on the short side. I sewed two identical pieces together and turned them inside out to enclose the stitching, and did it again to make the other tie. I then secured the raw ends of the two ties right next to each other on the outside of the v-band on my left side for the bow.

Ta-da! Anthopologie cardigan Made by Ali. It's my Tarra Cardigan, 'cause I think of her every time I wear it.

Close-up:

In action:
The back:


It's not perfect. The v-band sort of sticks up (see image below) which I think is a combination of the heavy knit, lightweight chiffon and the fact that this is a large sweater, so it's pulling/laying imperfectly on my frame. The pattern on the knit takes away from the clean shapes of the polka dots. Finally, the sweater is longer and wider than the original inspiration and the ribbed band can be really unflattering and I'm tempted to chop it off.


But what I love about it is 1) I pulled this off and 2) I can throw this on anything that has a slim bottom and add instant snazz. Seriously, if I'm wearing my usual palate of dark jeans and a dark knit top, this bad boy can make me feel more formal and more stylish. And, I'll add 3) Unlike most of my sewing projects, this'll get major mileage 'cause this is a cardigan and so it has near daily wear potential.

What about you? What's your favorite cardigan, and why do you reach for it so often? Have you done interesting sweater refashions? Thoughts on Anthropologie -- is it worth it for a DIYer?

Link-love on sweaters, cardigans and refashions:

• Grosgrain's Embellished Knit Month (a refashion daily in November! Lots of Anthropologie inspiration!)
• A Yen for Craft, my gal-pal Jessica refashioned one sweater a month this October
• Adventures in Dressmaking leaf-sweater makeover

Happy refashioning!

Versatile, Easy-Peasy Circle Scarf

Image from My Waking Memories, "Playing Around with the Circle Scarf"

It’s probably no surprise to you that I’m a wee bit enchanted with the idea of American Apparel’s versatile pieces, namely the Le Sac Dress, which the company claims can be worn seven ways, and the circle scarf, which can be worn 13 ways. Anything that promises to give me more with less is definitely worth a look-see in my book.

I emphasize idea because I’ve never actually been tempted to take one of their pieces home with me. I tried on the Le Sac dress and found it looked like exactly that: A sack. More candidly, despite my desire for good-quality basics, I can’t bring myself to pay pretty pennies for what they offer, knowing I can replicate these truly basic pieces quickly at a fraction the cost.

The company gets a lot of attention for being American-made and sweatshop free, both of which I applaud, but I bet you could make 80-90% of their pieces using small bits of knits. You could use oversized tees from the thrift store or likely find something rummaging around in the boy’s drawers. Quick, easy, green, homemade.

Take their Circle Scarf, that I spotted on a recent reconnaissance mission. It’s a scarf! It’s a hood! It’s a capelet! It's a shawl! It’s a skirt! Wow! goes the first impulse. And the second thought, upon further study, It’s just ONE piece of fabric with ONE seam!

Price tag? $38.

So I went home, did a little research, and found that a typical circle scarf is 36 inches wide with a 50-60 inch circumference. I sometimes find scarves too voluminous on me, so I opted for 2/3 the width (24 inches) with a 50 inch circumference (because it was more convenient, I cut two pieces measuring 24x25 apiece). I used a striped knit that had been languishing in my stash. The total cost probably clinks in at $1.50-$2, or 1/19th the price.

I sewed up the seam(s), making the scarf into a circle. Though American Apparel left the circle scarf edges raw (even easier!) I opted to serge the edges. Total prep and sewing time? Twenty minutes, tops.

Here’s the length of it:

I don’t like it that way, but I like it quite a bit doubled, like this:


Most of all, I like that it’s a lightweight scarf that adds color without bulk. And as a circle there’s no pesky ends to deal with.

Some considerations for next time: Because I wanted the stripes to be vertical rather than horizontal, I ended up cutting the width on the non-stretchy direction of the knit, so it doesn’t allow me to stretch it to all the variations. I’d also be tempted to lengthen it a bit, perhaps to 60 inches. For those of you who don’t have a serger, you could enclose your single seam using a french or flat-felled seam.

And with the holidays around the corner, you know what else I’ve been thinking? Easy Christmas gifts!

Here’s some great links regarding making and wearing the circle scarf:

• How to make a circle scarf from a t-shirt
• How to sew a circle scarf from a flat piece of fabric
• How to Wear It (images and videos at American Apparel)

If you do have a circle scarf, what's your favorite way to wear it?

Happy sewing! :)

How To Get Dressed in Five Minutes

I've been crushing on Eileen Fisher, a brand I was only vaguely aware of until recently. In my mind, perhaps I'd filed the brand as something geared toward an older, much wealthier woman than I. And perhaps my interest is evidence that their re-branding to reach a younger audience is working, but I, frankly, dig it.

The brand aims for the same thing I hope for in my own wardrobe: versatile, high quality basics that are flattering, allow you to move and can be layered for endless combinations. Overall great public ethos; a company that cares about sustainability and depictions of women.

Eileen Fisher's goal, I've read, was to have a system. Tops and bottoms go together and mix and match. Each season, pieces are created that can be integrated into the existing wardrobe. Now, more pressed for time than ever, I find this deeply appealing. The reality is that I really don't have any time in the mornings to dilly-dally over what I'll wear.

Check out this video, "How To Get Dressed in Five Minutes" and this slideshow, "Cheat Sheet for Getting Dressed."

In the video, Eileen Fisher suggests three slim bottoms (pencil skirt, slim pants, leggings) and three tops (tank, tunic, dress). Add a few accessories and you've got a little basics capsule that will serve you all season.

As much as I can geek out over such a system, I don't think this particular system fits me. Leggings only flatter me if I've got shoulder embellishments of the linebacker variety and very, very high heels. A pencil skirt, though I love them, straightens my curveless frame.

Instead, I'd like to think we each have our own system, whether we're aware of it or not. Think about it: What are the shapes/colors of the three types of bottoms that you're most likely to reach for when you're running late? What shapes/colors for three tops you'll throw on when you've got five different functions that day and no time for a wardrobe change? In the comments to my skirt post, I enjoyed reading how each woman knew which specific shapes were flattering to her body and spoke to her personal style.

I suspect these are our tried-and-trues, the things that keep on truckin' on our behalf. Using Polyvore, I whipped up a quick "Work Capsule" including three tops and bottoms, a dress, an outer layer and a few accessories. I focused more on shape/color than specific pieces.
This falls somewhere between my ideal wardrobe and what I know I'll realistically be most likely to wear. Why this capsule works for me:

Bottoms

• Straight-leg pants: My perfect pant. A blank slate that makes me feel slim and tall. Black/grey, stretch twill, accommodates a range of tops that hit at the hip.
• Slim pants: Though versatile, a bit more trendy than the straight leg and is good for a range of top lengths from hip to tunic. Black; ankle or full length.
• Full-ish skirt: Body shape-wise, skirts that have a bit of flare/movement at the knee give me more shape. Neutrals (gray, black, navy, brown), that preferably hit anywhere from an inch above the knee to just below it.

Tops

• Silky tanks: Straight-cut, lightweight and glides over curves. Versatile, as will punch up a more casual look and still jive perfectly with more formal ones. Can be worn untucked over slim pants, tucked into a skirt and provides interesting layers under a cardigan.
• Sleevelees/short sleeve tops with color, shape, and maybe print in a forgiving fabric: Jewel tones with shape, including surplice, wrap, peplum, v-neck etc., preferably in a heavy knit of forgiving woven. Stark contrast of pastels against dark neutrals don't work well on me.
• Cute cardigans: Not necessarily a "top" (though some can be worn tucked in as one!), I wear cardigans with far more frequency than anything else. I'm starting to realize that all of mine are far too plain, really sinking an equally plain outfit into the Land of Boring. The goal? Get either incredible quality cardigans, i.e., cashmere, to make up for in luxury what I lose in aesthetics in a variety of jewel-toned colors, or find cardigans with wonderful details that add interest, like the silk yoke and contrast buttons above.

The Dress: A knit or sweater knit (offices are cold!). Forgiving, neutral, a palate on which to build.

Accessories

• Statement coat: Since the rest of my wardrobe isn't too colorful, I love a deep color or bold print (like high contrast plaid) and feel the most elegant in a slim coat (pinching in at the waist) that hits at the knee. It also brightens up an outfit I haven't had time to think about.
  
• Scarves: To add punches of color and print to plain outfits. I have lots of chunky long winter scarves, but I need thin, square scarves as they're more useful for this purpose.
• Hat: A knit beret, to fight the cold, in and out of the office
• Flats: Neutral color. A city dweller and transit commuter, I walk far distances and comfort is key.
• Black heels: Always classic, always feminine, always perfect for the office.
• An elegant messenger bag: I'm not sure such a thing exists, but again, a long strap is helpful when walking long distances and the bag should be large enough to hold files. It's easy to find a practical bag, much harder to find one that's both practical and pretty. Leather in the shades of brown feel classic, versatile, elegant and hip to me.

My casual capsule:

Bottoms

• Straight-leg jeans
• Slim capris: 3/4 length in a variety of colors, blacks, blues, white, red
• Jersey skirt: This is the skirt to "slob out in" in the book Three Black Skirts. The one I currently have folds over at the waist so I can control length at the hem and height at the waist.

Tops

• Loose-ish tees: In a variety of colors with clavicle-bearing necklines. Goes under everything, always comfy. A striped tee is always a winner.
• More fitted tanks/short sleeve: Even in the winter, I prefer wearing tanks and layering sweaters on top. Ideally tanks are in darker neutrals or jewel tones with interesting details (cowl neck, boat neck, henley closure, small print, etc.)
• Loose cardigans with pockets: Unlike the office-cardis, these are more staid; comfort and layering is key.

Other/Accessories

• Dress: I'm just now discovering the beauty of dresses. I'm aching for some in a small print that are highly versatile. The one depicted is jersey with a defined waist and a flared skirt and yet can be played up differently depending on the accessories.
• Sweaters: I don't have many pullover sweaters, but I suspect a few v-necks in gorgeous colors would be a wonderful addition to my plain casual capsule. If I throw on, say, jeans and a black tee, this emerald sweater would do wonders for me.
• Scarves: Same as for the work capsule, but more playful with color, print and fabric (i.e. circle scarves in jersey).
• Flats: In colors! Red and gold are my faves.

So that's it. You can see from above that my wardrobe isn't overly interesting but if I could fine tune a work and casual wardrobe capsule (especially since the two so easily overlap), I'd be pretty well-dressed when I'm scooting out the door at 6 a.m. And there are items I love to wear that aren't in these capsules—for example, oxford shirts and wide-leg pants—but they take more consideration than I can pull off quickly.

Most importantly, by thinking of what shapes/colors I'm most quickly drawn to, I can also fine tune my thrift shopping and sewing. Recently, while thinking these things, I've picked up two straight leg pants at the thrift store (which require altering) and a royal blue surplice top and a deep purple v-neck silk sweater that I don't know how I've lived without. On the sewing table: A sweater refashion project that will hopefully mark the beginning of my cute cardigan collection.

Another blogger has considered Eileen Fisher's system early this year. She had this to say:

They’re very simple styles so, using super quick patterns, you might be able to make a capsule from her ‘system’ in a weekend :D Though simple clothes do look best in quality materials and quality techniques.

Check out her comprehensive discussion on tops and bottoms, with links to possible patterns.

But what about you? I love learning how folks put things together. Do you have an informal system/capsule? What clothes do you reach for in a hurry? Or: What clothes do you think will help you when you're in a hurry?

And finally, I'm sorry I've been such a deadbeat in the commenting department. I've just figured out how to put Google Reader on my phone, so I can read your lovely blog posts on the train! Unfortunately, no commenting ability. Grrrr. And I just can't bear to open my personal computer at home until Saturday morning. Bear with me until I get my technologies figured out :0

Your reader,
Ali

The Good, the Bad and the Ugly: Serger Edition

Hello, friends! It's been a whirlwind few weeks. Since my last post, I've been out of town and then started a new job which entails a long commute, so I suspect my sewing and blogging will slow down as I get adjusted. I foresee two paths for myself: I'll either verrrry slowly work on big projects (remember the Lady Grey Coat?) or fit in quick projects when I can (knit tops and skirts would be at the top of my list!).

When you're under a tight schedule, how do you manage to get sewing in? Do you find doing piecemeal sewing at free moments or dedicating a few hours less frequently works better for you? What kind of projects do you find most satisfying when the rest of your life is harried? I'd love to hear your thoughts!

I'd hinted last month that I bought a serger. It was a somewhat impulsive decision as I'd been aching for one for months and have continuously said that I couldn't afford it. But when I returned from visiting my family at the end of Self-Stitched-September, my sewing mojo was at an all time low. My excuse? I was tired of investing so much time, effort and hope into garments that I was constantly forgiving. Though I think a forgiving approach is healthy, I really wanted professional looking seams and a machine built to handle knits. If I was going the fewer projects/better quality route, a serger would have to be on my horizon.

And by chance, I found a used one for $70 nearby. And while I'll say now that I think it's worth every penny, we had a rough beginning.

The Bad

The serger is a Singer Merritt Lock, likely from the 1980s. Since I bought it from a man who was selling his mother's old machine, it lacked all the bells and whistles of a new machine. I had to download the manual online for a fee, learned that my machine does not have a differential feed, and that I could do a rolled hem if only I had the proper plate (which I don't).

But the worst of it is that the tension on the upper looper thread was nonexistent. And did I mention that's sort of crucial?

The Ugly

Sometimes I think I take my DIY-mentality a little too far, but I wasn't willing to take this to a repair shop when I didn't even know how to use the machine. It began with me wanting to see the back of the tension knob on the upper looper thread. One screw here, one screw there, and voila! The inside of my machine. I figured I had a 50-50 chance of not screwing it up irreparably.


My kitchen table, with serger guts.


Turns out, a spring was completely missing from that tension knob. I went to the hardware store, picked up a similar sized one for a buck, and hooray! It works.

The Good

I began to teach myself to use the serger with a few quick knit projects. The first is a boatneck tee from Sew U: Homestretch. In the book, Mullin advises you to redraw the neckline on the crewneck pattern, raising the center front by an inch and pushing the shoulder out to a mere inch from where the shoulder meets the sleeve. An illustration of this pattern alteration:


I used one of the boy's old shirts, and here's what I came up with:
At first I was dubious as to whether the shape was flattering, but I find the boatneck and wide sleeves to be so elegant and tres Audrey.

My only complaint, however, is how little fabric remains on the shoulder. Mullin suggests 1", but if you subtract the seam allowances (1/4 inch each), that leaves you with a scant 1/2 inch. When I make another boatneck, I'll redraw the pattern 2 inches from the sleeve, leaving me with 1-1/2 inches on each side.


Above all else, I'm pleased with the quality of this homemade garment and that's not something I've ever felt. I could hang this shirt inside out and not blush with shame.

Though I'm still getting used to how to secure chain ends (and am too heavily reliant on Fray Check!) I'm so glad to have a serger. I hope that I'll get adept enough at using it that, when sewing knits, I can sew on my conventional machine minimally.

I'd read people ooh-and-ahhh over their sergers, often noting that it saves them so much time, which is something I hadn't understood, asking myself, Could it really be that much faster than the zigzag function on my conventional machine? But now I get it, it's that magical knife. The trimming and finishing of a seam in a single step not only saves time in all seam finishes, but I've already used it for raw edges (for an informal look) and for neatly trimming imperfect edges (with those shimmying knits!).

Do you have a serger, and if so, what do you find you use it most for? Any uses besides replacing the zigzag function on your conventional machines?

Happy weekend, folks, and happy sewing :)