Are you a book-person or pattern-person?

Once I saw Selfish Seamstress' version of the A-Plus A-Line skirt, I began to daydream about Twinkle patterns. To my luck, my local library had a copy of Twinkle Sews and now that it's time to return it (after three renewals), I'm not sure I can live without it.

I wasn't initially attracted to Twinkle designs not to mention the fact that the patterns are not cut on the fold and you have to print out all those (50+!) pages and tape them together. But with the book on hand to peruse and adore, I've slowly become a convert. Designs that first struck me as "busy" or "not me" now strike me as clever and whimsical and feminine.

But my recent love affair with Twinkle Sews has me thinking about a bigger issue: I have not lavished one of my patterns with all the attention I do my books, though you could argue they serve the same function. And I keep meaning to go the store to pick up some knit dress patterns as they go on sale, but I haven't been motivated enough to go.

Most sewing blogs I read usually focus on whipping up individual patterns. So why books?

Generally speaking, I've always loved books and the universes that live inside them, and I think the same holds true of sewing books. Each book offers me a new way of looking at sewing: it is the universe of a sewer and their outlook on their craft, divulged in each individual project.

The truth is I've made few of the projects in the sewing books I consistently cycle back to, with the exception of Sew U Homestretch, for it's the only book with patterns about sewing knits. But I've got the other two Sew U books by Wendy Mullin, Do-It-Yourself Patterns by Cal Patch, Little Green Dresses by Tina Sparkles, and likely soon, Twinkle Sews. My two sewing technique books, Readers Digest something and McCalls vintage something else, I've (obviously) never really opened.

Then what's the point? Why own them if I hardly make the projects they offer? Well, I like the possibility. One book—about the price of one full price pattern, it's worth mentioning—offers more than 20 projects. But the important point is that I gain courage and inspiration reading them, which is something I only get in fits and starts from patterns.

In the Sew U series, I am introduced to the idea that there are basic shapes for all our clothes (skirts, shirts, pants, dresses) and that the variations are only limited by my imagination. I feel imbued with the playfulness of a designer and have the confidence of understanding how most contemporary clothes are put together. I get excited by making simple clothes, about returning to the same pattern again and again, to make it better.

In Do-It-Yourself Patterns, I'm invited to look at my body as a template for the clothes I'll wear, to unlocking some of the mysteries of why clothes do and don't fit me, to understanding the lines and curves of printed patterns (incredibly helpful when altering patterns!). It's my Sew U prequel. And Little Green Dresses, while offering an ethos I dig (eco-friendly by re-using fabric) and that appeals to the thrifter in me, also offers another perspective on pattern drafting.

Twinkle Sews makes me think in terms of pattern and texture. I feel a little Girl Next Door and a little Rock-n-Roll. Never would I have thought of using fabric cut on the bias as a raw edge (since it doesn't ravel), lending both a clean finish and a sense of being deliberately undone.

And it's individual patterns that bring me into the nitty-gritty, into technique, into more sophisticated projects. A book feels open-ended, whereas a pattern has a specific destination. Books have voices, personalities -- do you think the same holds true for patterns?

But what about you? Are you a pattern-person or a book-person? A something-else? I'd love to know. :)

What books do you turn to? Or what patterns?

(Don't forget about the giveaway!)

100th Follower Giveaway: Retro Awesomeness

I was tickled to discover that I now have more than 100 followers! I'm so incredibly flattered. Thank you, thank you for reading. When I started this blog about a year ago, I didn't expect to have a single one. I'd simply fallen in love with other sewing/style blogs and wanted a virtual space to obsess and ponder. What I hadn't expected was how this blog community—you!—would catapult my sewing and cement a commitment to all things quality and handmade.

I plan to have more giveaways in the new year, but as I wrap up a busy year of sewing and style, I'd like to give away a few of my treasured items to some of you in this incredible blog community.

Following are three items that I've packed with me all these moves and could only part with if I knew they were going to a good home. I know they're more style than sewing related, but I think they'd all make a great addition to your semi-handmade closet. Consider one of these for yourself or someone you know. I'll ship worldwide!

1) Argyle pumps

I bought these at a vintage shop. Leather, Made in Italy, 1 inch heel, size 6 1/2.



Given their age, they've got a bit of wear, but they're definitely in wearable shape. I just may not go splashing around in puddles in them (I made this mistake once with vintage heels; they literally disintegrated during my first day of teaching).

I've only worn these once partly because every time I put them on I feel like one of Cinderella's step-sisters trying to fit her fat foot into the glass slipper. So warning, ladies, these lovelies run small. They should fit a 6 just fine.

2) Vintage off-white quilted purse

This I scored at my favorite thrift store in San Diego. It's got numerous pockets, a metal zipper and a clasp. I've always thought this would be a lovely everything purse. And with spring on the horizon, think of it paired with a lovely full-skirted sundress.

(to give you an idea of size -- this is your standard paperback)

3) Retro dress

This is not a vintage dress, but it screams retro to me. Look at that honeycomb smocking on the bodice, the satin-y finish at the bodice, the belt and around the skirt. The button-lined pockets. Sigh.

I found this at a resale shop in Hawaii just in time for a New Year's party in an abandoned military bunker. Swing dancing with men in their sailor whites, partying like it was 1939. And it's all yours.

This is made in China (see the tag) and says "medium," but I'd say it'd fit ladies size 2-4 in ready-to wear (Bust 32-34) at the bodice. The skirt is nice and roomy. The fabric is lightweight, and you'll likely need to wear a slip with it.

To enter: Leave a comment on this post and let me know which item you're interested in (any one or all three!) and answer the question, What's the most versatile item in your closet?

On Jan. 1, I'll use of those random number generator thingys to pick a winner (or winners:).

Again, they're be more in the new year -- but I'd love love love to bequeath these to you. Happy New Year!

:) Ali

Lady (Grey) In Red

Finito! Hallelujah.

I really thought this was going to be a project that would never see the light of day. This project has followed me through a new job, a long commute and a move.

Front:
Overall: Love the vibrant color and silhouette that makes me feel curvy and feminine. As much as I love the belted version on others, I think it looks more flattering on my frame beltless. The topstitching and lining makes it a really special project.

Gertie's sew-along ended, oh months ago, but it obviously took me a bit longer and I didn't do all the special tailoring bits that I'm sure was well worth the time. It was an unexpected, harried, transition period for me so I opted to just make the pattern as the instructions directed. I don't have internets, so some of the common problems—pockets peeking, too-short lining—were out of my preventative reach. Sigh.

And though I could always do it over again (next year) the "right way" making a coat feels a bit like the way folks describe childbirth -- you won't do it again until you've forgotten what it was like the first time.

Lizajane used the same fabric as me and hers turned out beautifully. Check it out here. Taran's on the fast track to finishing her (fantastically fitting) red Lady Grey too.

What I'm glad I did

• Made a muslin: First muslin! I used an old sheet so it wasn't ideal, but it alerted me to major pattern adjustments
• Altered the front and back pattern: As my muslin attested, there was major gaping in both the lapels and roominess in the back. I ended up taking a four inch dart in the front piece and a two inch dart in the back. I also did my usual square shoulder adjustment and lengthened the armscye.
• Added a little coat hook: I love this on my other coats, so I just sewed in a few inches of bias tap at the neckline to easily hang on hooks

What I'd do differently

• Not take an inch tuck to shorten the waist: This was a suggested fix for roominess in the upper back (and not a swayback adjustment). Given the major alterations I made this seemed unnecessary in hindsight.
• Make another muslin OR use my muslin pieces as my pattern: My pattern alterations helped fix the front, but it drastically changed the length of the coat even though I didn't touch the side seam length at all. Really, the coat should be about four inches longer and the lining is much, much shorter. Also, it affected the way the pieces came together at the hem which mirrored more of a scallop than a semi-circle.
• Choose different fabric: As Lizajane says, this wool flannel twill is possibly the most difficult wool to use with this coat. It's very very lightweight and loosely woven.
• Not serged the edges of the lining: I just couldn't get the tension right and I felt the fabric kept tightening at the edges. Just an overall pain.
• Use a heavier interfacing: I used a lightweight interfacing, but seeing how others' collars and lapels lay (like the wind couldn't bother 'em) makes me wish I used a heavier interfacing since my fabric was so lightweight.

Side:
Back:
Lining
Belted

To be frank, I know this'll need a bit more work. First order of business: lengthening the lining so it doesn't expose my ugly hem in the rare event someone's inspecting the inside of my coat.

But I'm trying to just be grateful that it's done and that it fits fairly well, especially given my host of torso fitting problems: rectangular frame, square shoulders, swayback, small bust, scoliosis. Still I can't ignore that the back leaves something to be desired. In the side photo, the back hem seems a tad long and the gorgeous waist flare just isn't happening correctly, even more obvious in the back photo. I'm hoping if I wear it enough, I'll begin to appreciate it as is, as I haven't a clue how to fix the flare issue. I imagine it begins with the pattern piece I altered forever ago.

Anyhoo, 'nuff complaining. :0 It's an eye-catching coat that I've already received compliments on and it'll be a perfect topper to my green knit dress -- me-made-Christmas!

Wishing you all gorgeous coats and warmth and lovely holidays. :)

The tug between more and less; sewing for the masses

While I've been away, my follower tally has ratcheted up to 106! You know what that means? 100th follower giveaway!! Stay tuned for deets and lovelies soon.

As I write this, I'm sitting at a cafe near my *new* apartment just three miles from my office, relieved that I've just said goodbye to a grueling commute. So once I get settled, that means hours and hours I've got to devote to sewing time. :) A few thoughts during this transition.

1: The Packing Boxes Don't Lie

Packing is always a bit of a reality check as to just how much I've managed to acquire, especially when it comes to my re-imagined wardrobe. My final tally: I've got 2-1/2 times fabric or refashion projects than I do actual clothes hanging in my closet. I already feel like I've got more clothes than I need and if I were to sew every last piece in my stash, my closet would be bursting, completely defeating the point of having less.

So I think I need to put myself on a fabric-buying hiatus, with exceptions made for projects I'll start immediately (and thus bypassing the stash completely!) such as the Uniform Project LBD that I hope to sew soon with the lovely Deborah at Minnado's House.

Do you ever do this? Stop yourself from buying fabric and/or patterns so it doesn't get out of control?

2: Our Lady (Grey) of Quality
When I've found a spare sewing moment, the Lady Grey coat has taken up all my attention, partly because I can finally see the end in sight and feel I must finish it before moving on to anything else or it will languish undone forever.

Despite excellent pattern instructions, I could go on about my frustrations—major alterations, problems with fabric—but I'm surprisingly enjoying the process. Related to #1, for the first time since I've started this blog, I feel my wardrobe has enough. For example, I have two coats so I really don't need another.

Still, this coat will be a welcome addition to my closet because it's distinctive and beautiful. How can there not be room for that? And I think this is a signal that my mode-of-operation as a sewer is changing. My previous desire to dash off quick-and-easy projects is giving way to marshaling the patience to make a single garment with high personal value. And perhaps it's the season. Inclement weather always reminds me that quality matters.

As much as I oogle Colette Patterns, I've been shy because they seemed too complex—lots of pattern pieces, lots of fabric, muslin likely required. But with this change(-ing) of heart, I've snapped up the Crepe, and I've put the Rooibos (which I fell in love with instantly) and the Parfait (not an initial fave, but this seems like a universally flattering dress) on my Christmas wish list. And the boy's specifically requested the Negroni.

What patterns do you turn to for high quality garments?

Observation #3: Sewing for the masses?

A Negroni for the boy means a bit of selfless sewing. And this video here made me think we could take it even further. From the Huffington Post, the Fixers Collective at this Brooklyn gallery offers space for the community to come in and repair their items.

"With a goal of increasing material literacy in the community, the Collective fosters an ethic of creative caring toward objects that are part of everyday life."

See the video here.

Let's think for a moment, folks: What would be the sewing equivalent? How many folks have you met that say they "can't even sew a button"? My mind wanders, inspired:

Public service sewing classes.

One-day/one-hour sewing workshops. Fabric stores. Resale shops. Boutiques.

Free. Open to the public.

Bring your button-less shirts. Your too-long trousers. Your unloved sweaters.

Empower yourself. Re-imagine your wardrobe. Reconsider value. Re-use.

A mini-revolution, one-button at a time.