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11 March 2011

Inspiration: Jackets

Many of you know I love love love all the Built by Wendy books, mostly because they're so design-based, allowing you to consider endless possibility of variation on basic patterns. I received Built by Wendy Dresses on the eve of Winter, and now, Built by Wendy Coats & Jackets, on the verge of Spring. Since my sewing seems to follow the needs of the season, I'm not sure how much I'll dip into this book immediately, but I wanted to share this book that I've been obsessively reading.

Like her other books, this comes with three basic patterns: Fitted jacket at the waist, basic jacket at the hip, and a straight coat to the knee. These three patterns are used in 23 variations total.

Here's a version of the fitted jacket:
What I love is the additional options for fabric and notions:
It's these sort of options that get my mind going. For example, I've been eying a colleague's jacket that I find really classy and I bet I could recreate it with navy blue ultrasuede and a black and white herringbone collar.

Another fitted jacket variation:
Classy, reminds me of a Stewart & Brown coat I just saw on eCouterre.

And another:
Sigh. I've been wanting a blue coat.

Here's a variation on the basic jacket:

And one on the the straight coat:

All this jacket dreaming has got me thinking about this brown vintage fabric I've had in my stash and haven't known what to do with:

Now armed with a basic pattern, I'm thinking: A basic jacket with a hood lined with this flannel, big patch pockets, and closed with toggles. Oh, my classic collegiate leanings come forth. Could be great for spring!

You know, I've never been a jacket person. Cardigans have always served this function for me, as they're stretchy and portable. But I love how a coat during the colder months can really give me a tailored look no matter what I'm wearing beneath, and so my mind is veering toward jackets during the warmer months. The opening to the book really resonated with me:

Some people say the most important building blocks of a woman's wardrobe are a little black dress and a great white shirt. While I certainly couldn't live without either of those, I think the real key to always looking stylish is the right mix of great coats and jackets. After all, unless it's the hottest part of summer, you usually need something to cover you up, and you only look as good as your outermost layer. There's arguably no other garment in which function and fashion play such equally crucial roles.
What do you think? Is our outermost layer the key to pulling a look together? Are you a jacket person? What jackets do you find most useful?

8 comments:

  1. thanks for the preview! i've been wondering about this one. nice to see the patterns have a variety of options with/without princess seams, raglan/set-in sleeves, and the hood is nice too.

    i am definitely a jacket person over cardigans, even though i knit and have yet to sew a (completed) jacket out of fear. does the book give details on lining/interlining? that's the part that scares me the most.

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  2. I think there is a point to that, jackets and coats get a lot more wear than any single shirt or dress. And they are seen most of the year in cold climates where we have to cover up.

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  3. Hey, I just splurged on this, too! And, Pattern, Scissors, Cloth is doing a RTW tailoring/jacket sew along in April.

    I love making coats---the fabrics are so nice to work with, and feel so luxurious...

    My only disappointment with the book is that all the sleeves are one-piece. I'm excited to try it out, though... I love messing a basic pattern into my own thing :)

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  4. HI Ali, Iam a cardigan AND a jacket person. I have quite a lot of jackets and coats, favourites include fitted green tweed Saltwater via ebay jacket for channelling my inner Mitford sister, a collar-less sixties style red Zara jacket in summer, a sixties mohair cream coat with crotchet buttons in winter. I think I need to do a jacket post on my blog! I was not sure whetehr to get this book as I do already have a lot of jackets but I am swayed by your post. I love peacoats and would like to make one. I may wait till my birthday though. Thank you for the comment and gym advice you left. And BTW I have finally cut out the U.P. dress and staystitched the princess seams. I hope to be back ontrack with it now. x

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  5. I've been pining for this book too! So I can't wait to see your results! I listened to a Craftsanity podcast interview with Wendy Mullin and she seems so down to earth and cool!

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  6. I like where you are going with that brown and plaid, ma'am! I never really wore jackets but lately I've been realizing that if I'd worn them in the winter indoors over long sleeves and whatnot, maybe I wouldn't have been so cold! But I can't stuff one under the current coat I have, so oh well. I have two plaid thrift ones that I love and one brown one from Talbots that is super Mad Men. I've never made one.

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  7. This winter I have finally found the perfect vintage coat, and whether I wear it over jeans or with a dress, I always feel much more elegant, than with my usual coats. the same goes for lighter jackets. I don´t have many with a tailored fit, but I am drawn towards them.

    Love to see what you do with that fabric. Interesting combo!

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  8. Well, I can tell you that my favorite jackets at the moment are my red leather jacket, a short (to the hip) black peacoat/jacket and a patchwork/desigual-inspired coat. Then again, jackets with me are more of an afterthought, I usually have one or two favorites and rotate them and hope they go with the outfit. But I wear them more for warmth than for actually completing an outfit...

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