I've been told that I'm the kind of person who, upon buying a new car, would need to key a long gash in the side of it. Otherwise, I'd obsessively fret over its newness, the pristine nature of the paint job, it's fresh-off-the-lot condition.And that goes for all new things, at least all new things that appear beyond the wear and tear of daily living. Over the years, folks have given me beautiful things as presents: leather journal covers, printed notebooks, top-of-the-line pens. And I never use them. Ever. Far too precious.
Enter my song-and-dance about my Fashion on the Ration project, where this year I hope to learn to embrace quality over quantity. Why not have fewer, higher quality items that I wear often? The whole enterprise sounds reasonable and a little luxurious, no?
I tackled my first project this year, the Uniform Project Little Gray Dress, with this gusto. The first thing I needed to do was procure quality fabric. Last year I would've scavenged for fabric in thrift stores or dirt-cheap fabric stores where nothing is labeled. But the quality-me went out to three stores and finally bought the nicest gray wool I could find.
I fantasized about how wonderful it would feel to have one well-made, super-versatile dress in quality fabric. The perfect dress. I took it to the laundromat, watched as it circled around the dryer to steam it. I made two muslins and I even checked the grainlines when cutting. Very not-typical-me behavior.
And guess what? It was a bust. And I was angry for weeks. So much damn work for nothing.
There's a lot of things about this project that went wrong beyond the fabric, but what I realized in hindsight is: There was no fun in this at all.
In my pursuit of quality, I had overlooked the very thing I love about sewing: the process. On my sewing table, process is more akin to thrill of invention and luck (read: winging it) than a precise scientific experiment done under controlled conditions. I've been able to learn to sew by screwing up a lot and I've allowed myself to screw up by using fabric that was suitable, but far from precious.
Quality fabric = Perfectionist tendencies = Obsession with the Finished Object = Fear of Screwing Up = No Winging It and Forgiving Myself Along the Way = A Really Bad Time
That pretty much sums it up for me.
So what happened with the Uniform Project LGD? Well after a few weeks, I decided that my precious, unworn finished object was better off as an imperfect worn object, and even, no object at all if I botched it beyond repair.
I threw it in the wash. It's wool, but whatever, it's my wool. I hated the invisible button placket, I wanted the fit closer to my body, I gave up on my finished-object-fantasy: A reversible dress. I ripped a whole lotta threads. I exposed the button placket, removed the rear pleat, massively changed the shape of the back and (badly) snipped the neckline and am not sure how to fix it.
Here's where it is now:
Once I figure out how to finish the neckline (bias tape? a peter pan collar? a tie? a ruffled collar like on the Passport jacket?) and fix some of the rippling on the re-attached center right, this baby's ready to go. I actually wore it to work last week as a short-sleeve coat—perfect for this time of year!—and just covered the neckline with a scarf. And guess what? I believed I could fall in love with it.
I don't think this means I've given up on my desire for quality things, but it does mean I need to get over the fear that bubbles up in me when I'm in pursuit of perfection, when I'm fixated on the finished object. I think I love scavenging for fabrics at thrift stores and re-working existing clothes so much because that expectation is removed, the barrier to entry lowered. I'm trying to give new life to something discarded. If I can, great. If not, neither the unused object or my pocketbook are worse off.
Possibly on the sewing table: A Colette Rooibos from a dark denim in my stash that cost me $1/yard, a shift dress using a Built By Wendy pattern using a navy stretch twill that I thrifted, a beige skirt from a 40s pattern with thrifted fabric, and finally a Sewaholic Pendrell for my sister using a pretty $1/yard floral chiffon in my stash. It changes by the day, but all of these projects feel ultimately do-able, with non-precious but lovely fabrics, with either easy or beautifully explained patterns: A process that excites me.
But what about you? How do you approach good fabric? Or more importantly, how do you keep the sewing process fun?
Happy sewing all!











it certainly sounds like there were a lot of issues with that dress pattern--that it wasn't just you.
ReplyDeletei get the same way about "good" fabric. i have a stack of wools and silks and linens that i'm afraid to ruin. the problem i have with trying out a pattern with cheaper fabric first is that after finishing the trial version i won't want to make the good one anymore.
i'm trying to get better about it though. i've used fabric that i really love for a few sewing projects lately and the world hasn't ended yet.
I'm like you, tending more to wing it during the process. My problem? My thrift store fabrics can feel just as precious as any expensive wool, because the fabric's irreplaceable. D'oh!
ReplyDeleteThat being said, I really enjoy the feeling of sewing with luscious wools and linens. So when I do decide to cut, that enjoyment of working with the fabrics helps.
And I agree with knotty, the issues with that pattern go well beyond you.
Here's to happier sewing in the future---with and without quality fabrics.
Ah, ha! I'm glad I am not the only one that keeps a stash of lovely wools, linens and silks in the closet with a fear of making that first cut.
ReplyDeleteI'm getting better with it by simply reminding myself - ruined in the attempt to make something or wasted sitting in a closet - it's the same thing.
I feel the same about it. While in a fabric store I have no problem buying some high-quality, one-of-a-kind fabric such as wools and silks, I always end up using the cheap ones and saving the best for later 'when I'm a more experienced seamstress': I end up spending a lot of time and efforts on something that isn't really worth it...
ReplyDeleteOne strange thing is that I realized that whereas I made my last Madeleine bloomers for myself, I used a super-cheap greyish rayon, I made the same pattern in a delicate silk and cotton blend (with luscious shades of red and white) for a friend. Do we save this magnificent fabric because we feel like we don't 'deserve' it?
If the fabric is really expensive, I do make a muslin first. This helps a lot. Generally speaking though, I figure my time is the most precious thing going into the project (and I am not particularly skilled here). So, out of respect to myself, I use fabrics that I think are nice.
ReplyDeleteMaybe that's why people stash? So you can forget how much something cost before you cut into it? I notice you can still recite the prices of the stuff in your stash--time to forget and forgive?
ReplyDeleteI seem to have the same issue. I think that's why I have done so much refashioning and thrift store sewing. I tend to be a little looser when there is not big dollar sign hanging over the sewing project, and I go more with my pretty well tuned instincts instead of all my ideas about what I "should" do. That being said I just paid good money for real fabric-stroe yardage and now I am too nervous to cut it out.
ReplyDeleteVery interesting post and insightful comments. Dare I say I think most sewists are like this, hence the stash. I have been sewing for a very long time and have, over the years, become less fussy about cutting into the good stuff. What fun is that? I think that everyone needs to step back, assess their skills and choose a pattern accordingly. Sew to your current skills. This avoids being over-challenged by an advanced pattern. Build a portfolio of standard pieces by making them interesting by fabric choice. Then move on to more advanced techniques. Matching our expectations to our skill set avoids disappointment. When moving onto more advanced techniques, muslin. Muslin again. By the time you cut into the good stuff the sewing will be second nature. You don't have to muslin an entire garment, just the new part. I am mostly self taught and this method has worked well for me and others I have mentored. Your dress has great potential. Good luck with your project.
ReplyDeleteI'm with you on the hesitation toward cutting into expensive fabrics. I think Celkalee had a good point about muslining as a "trial run". I've been doing that a lot lately, and although it takes more time to get to the fabric I want to work with (vs. the cheap JoAnn's stuff I muslin with), I've been more satisfied with the end product.
ReplyDeleteI'm SO disappointed that your UP dress didn't work out the way you initially intended it to. Sounds like it had more to do with the pattern/instrux than with you. Glad you were able to find a wearable workaround, tho. It sure is a great concept dress, either way. :)
I think I'm a lot like you. I love winging it! And I think I'm actually afraid to buy expensive fabric. I've never bought anything over 10$/yard, although I also refuse to buy fabric that doesn't have a nice feel to it...
ReplyDeleteThat said, the one time I've actually followed the instructions to the letter was my red polka dot Crepe, which is my favorite dress to date.
I think - well, hope... - that it's possible to find a balance between winging it and buying none-too-expensive fabric and still produce garments of a nice quality. :)
I love your sharing of this emotional math for you (and I echo it myself):Quality fabric = Perfectionist tendencies = Obsession with the Finished Object = Fear of Screwing Up = No Winging It and Forgiving Myself Along the Way = A Really Bad Time
ReplyDeleteI totally understand this fear! Unlike some of the other "making" I do, like jewelry and knitting, fabric can't just be restrung or unraveled and re-used if things don't go as planned.
ReplyDelete(Haven't sewn anything all year, but did actually write a sewing-related blog post tonight. Woot!)
I do the same! It's unfortunate, but I do that with clothes too. I really want to be the person who wears/sews nice, luxiourious clothes, but I'm always scared of ruining them.
ReplyDeleteI have to tell you though, I love to sew and being precise takes all the fun out of it. Winging rocks!
I've been thinking about your dress. I always feel bad when something doesn't quite work out. My question re: the right side of the garment pucker is...could this be a lengthwise grain issue? is it possible that one of the panels is a little off? that could explain that little misfit. Just wondering
ReplyDeleteI buy a LOT of my fabric in the bargain section after they've been steeply discounted. For example, I bought cotton silk regularly 26.00 a meter for 2.00 and pure wool regularly 42.00 a meter for 5.00. Sometimes, the bargain section is also on half price so the deals are even better. That helps to take the precious off. So does time.
ReplyDeleteAfter a while, my newest fabric is more precious than what's been in stash forever so I can use it easier but mostly, I've been learning to let go because I think the sadest thing is to have the precious fabrics never used when you die or when they are destroyed in a flood or fire. That said, I do sew muslins as well so the odds of success are higher.
I try to buy on a bargain, my most expensive fabric was for my winter woolen coat. But I believe is not just a matter of price... I got some fabric for free from my sewing teacher that I really like and I still haven't found the courage to start a project on it. Could it be that the more we like the fabric the more scared we are?
ReplyDeleteGreat post, I like winging it too, although I like to call it "fitting" :-). This is of course because I rarely muslin. I really loved celkalee´s comment on stepping back and sew according to skills. Also knowing what we think is the most fun can help. I, for instance, know that I love to use patterns with great instructions that are thought through and well written. I also know that I really don´t like the muslin process, so I hand baste more. Which is an activity I like to do. So being aware of what you enjoy about the sewing process could be a guide to keeping it fun!
ReplyDeleteGood luck with your next projects!
Wow! Even though this project seemed like it was going to be a bust, you've come out of it with a lovely wearable garment and a lot of lessons learnt by the sound of it! WIN! xxx
ReplyDeleteThanks all for your amazing comments! I actually tried to leave a comment a few days ago but Blogger was not my friend.
ReplyDeleteSo fascinating to hear your responses to this topic. I really like the theme of thinking of quality, not necessarily in terms of fabric, but in the pattern itself. It makes the ease of sewing so much more fun when all the pieces fit together and you're given some guidance on how to do it! I think the things I've been able to sew that might exceed my level -- i.e. the swimsuit and coat -- have been helped along by excellent instructions.
I also really like thinking of quality in terms of how we spend our time -- what's fun for each of us as sewers. There are many a beautiful pattern, but I think I'm realizing I like really basic patterns that I can grow with: either adapt for a different shape or go full tilt with a more quality fabric.
@Carlotta asks a great question though: Do we feel like we might not "deserve" magnificent fabric? I'm admittedly a cheapskate -- a skill that's kept me afloat for many years -- but I do often ask myself that. Even in a year when I've given myself license to buy quality, it's still hard for me. I demand so much out of "quality" investments, expect everything to live up to that investment. And how will you know until it enters your daily life?
And yes, @KC and others, I totally think that's a wonderful reason to stash. We forget! Everything in my stash, even though I recall their pries with a bargain hunters' pride, is fair game. :)
I'm finishing up the dress, hopefully will have pics soon.
I've just found your blog and am so glad I did, it's great reading! I have the same problem with fabric, I buy really nice stuff and then I am too scared to use it. For me it's more because I want to find the perfect use / garment for the fabric: I'm too afraid that I'll use it, then find a pattern the fabric would have been perfect for. So I now have a HUGE stash and I have just decided that this summer, I am only going to sew from the stash. And just pick a fabric and run with it. No more being paralysed by indecision... wish me luck!
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