In my last post, I mentioned I took a sewing lingerie class. Practically minded, of all the things I thought I would learn to sew, lingerie was at the bottom of the list. But I thought it would be fun to work with delicate fabrics, a way to both push and spoil myself. And, I told myself, I'd been hankering after a slip for light dresses and some sultry bedtime separates for those unbearably hot summer nights when I wish I could move into the freezer.We were supposed to sew a camisole and panty set, but none of us had time to finish the latter. I traced the slip in Folkwear 219: Intimacies off of one of my classmates, which Folkwear describes as a "treasure chest of lingerie styles from the 1920s and 1930s includes a camisole, tap pants, bias teddy, and slip."
A lovely illustration:
I particularly loved those insets at the bust, it does feel very much from a different time.Using habotai gold silk and three yards of lace, I made a slip and I'm utterly delighted! It's by far the most luxurious thing I own. The silk is a bit transparent and the sewing's not perfect, but I'm not gonna sweat it.
It's a great pattern, just three pattern pieces in my version. With this project I learned to cut delicate fabrics by placing it between a sort of paper sandwich -- so easy! This is also my first bias cut piece, and I love how it just slinks around the body.
Also, I learned to finish edges with lace. Colette Patterns has a nice tutorial on it here. Here's the scalloped edge of the neckline:
And the lace at the hem:
I did chop off 7 inches from the length—about mid-thigh on me—to be the most versatile. I worry it's a bit too short, but the problem I have with my current slips is that they're too long and too light-colored for my skin tone.And look! French seams! Also not as hard as I envisioned.
I know this wasn't technically part of my Summer Essentials list, but I'm so pleased to have this in my wardrobe. Definitely one of those projects that gives you energy, opening you up to potential projects you hadn't envisioned before. If I've the time, I'll certainly sew with silk again (so, so lovely), and I am already dreaming of a cami-and-tap pant set. (Wistful.) And now I can sew all those light-colored fabrics into pretty summer dresses!
This has also sent me down the path of obsessing about slips and their usefulness in a modern woman's closet. Do you wear them? What kind of slips do you find most useful for your wardrobe? I'd love to know!
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Congratulations Ali, it's beautiful. I love how the lace turned out. I personally don't wear them anymore, I used to when I was a child (no, it was not in the 40s!). I have a few vintage ones handed down to me from my mom's aunt, but I never managed to use them. I thinking that a skirt slip could actually be useful, though. My only concern is the added bulk. Have you starting wearing yours?
ReplyDeleteI love slips and wear them all the time (sometimes even with lined dresses). They keep my dresses cleaner and make them look better, what's not to love? I am so impressed that you made your own! It is really lovely.
ReplyDeleteI have both full slips and half slips in various lengths, they are all very useful. Right now a just-above-the-knee full slip sounds the most useful to me, but that's probably because I don't have one!
Lovely! I wear slips all the time, as I wear dresses and skirts pretty much exclusively to work. I like that a slip, particularly a full slip, gives everything a nice line and there are no singlets to ride up. I'm thinking about working on making some as the rtw range is pretty small. I generally wear stretchy slips, but it's interesting to think about how a non stretchy slip like this would work
ReplyDeleteWhat a beautiful slip! I love collecting vintage slips and even have one from the 1920s that hangs in my closet, and a pair of bright red bloomers with black lace! I find them useful underneath my vintage dresses, or sometimes just to wander around the house in when you want to feel special. I like half slips for under skirts the best, but of course, I don't have any right now!
ReplyDeleteThat's lovely! well done! I haven't really worked with delicate fabrics much myself. What did you mean with a sort of paper sandwich to cut it.That sounds intresting!do you pin the fabric in place between paper?I wear slips all the time and am planning to start making some soon so any tips would be very useful
ReplyDeleteFunny you should bring this up now. I've just recently started wearing dresses more often, and I find that I do need a slip. I find it's very good at keeping my knit dresses from clinging to curves I don't want them to, and also keeps the skirt from riding up. My only problem is that I only own one slip, and it's a poly-awful thing, so I sweat to death in it when it's humid. I can't wait to sew myself a pretty (and cool!) silk slip with pretty lace!
ReplyDeleteYours is absolutely lovely! I hope you get a lot of use out of it!
I wear slips mostly during the warmer months, which may seem counter-intuitive, but makes sense to me, since 1) my summer clothes are lighter colors and 2) most of my summer dresses are unlined, so that it's easier to iron them after washing (and faster to make). I own a variety of (purchased) slips from the brand "Mary Green", which I love because they are made from stretch silk and are extremely comfortable. My most used ones are short nude and black half-slips (skirts). I think that making a half slip myself would be a fun project (made in silk, of course), especially since I have no experience in working with lace. Gertie has a tutorial on her blog for making one, which sounds very easy: http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2009/07/make-vintage-inspired-half-slip-no.html
ReplyDeleteAli, that slip is stunning! I am totally impressed! :) I wear slips, too, but mostly during the fall and winter.
ReplyDeleteI wear slips, although, like Sarah, it is mostly in the fall and winter to prevent my dresses from being grabbed by my tights. I own exactly one, in ivory that I wore as part of my graduation dress (it was a sweater dress) in 8th grade. I could definitely use a black one someday and the plastic adjust rings on the straps of my ivory have long since busted off, so maybe I'll sew one or two this fall.
ReplyDeleteI actually had a lady ask me if we sold slips at work today. Sadly, I've never even SEEN a slip available in a modern store. Mine was from the thrift store.
Long story short, yours is so, so lovely. And I am very jealous that you got to use real silk. Make sure you don't wreck it by laundering it wrong! I ruined my favorite silk skirt that way :(
So lovely! As a girl, I used to argue with my mom about having to wear a slip and tights to church. Now, I LOVE them,how funny is that? Mom knows best!
ReplyDeleteWow, congratulations! I own this pattern an made a red cotton voile version out of it, but unefortunately, it doesn't fit me at all... I think it's rather designed for the rectangular shapes that were trendier in the 20's.
ReplyDeleteStill, it's such a lovely pattern that I plan to redraft it and make it in a rainbow of silk charmeuses one day (I'm an absolute lingerie lover)... Do you have any fitting tip to share or was the fit immediately perfect?
Aw, thanks, ladies for all your kind comments! I agree that a half slip could be particularly useful for skirts, I especially find that full skirts don't move as freely without a slip.
ReplyDelete@Creative Ms. W: The "paper sandwich" did lay the slippery fabric between two pieces of paper. We laid out craft/butcher paper on the cutting table, our fabric (single, not folded) and then the pattern paper over that. When you cut into it, it's just like cutting into paper, no problems whatsoever. It does, however, dull your scissors, so use it sparingly! Or I'd get a cheapo set of fabric scissors if I were to do this often, to use just for slippery fabrics. And if I did cut something on the fold, I placed a piece of craft paper between the folded fabric and the pattern piece on top. Here's a good link too: http://www.craftstylish.com/item/918/more-tips-and-tricks-sewing-with-silk
@Olga - What a great point about dresses being easier to sew AND launder when you use a slip instead of lining. And thanks for the Gertie link! Tasia had a great half-slip tutorial here, too: http://sewaholic.net/make-your-own-slip-version-1/
@Lisette -- Great point. Any tips on laundering silk? I was going to hand wash it, which is a pretty willy nilly enterprise when I do it.
@Carlotta -- We didn't have time to fit this, so I sort of sewed this on faith based on the envelope's measurements, though I have read that Folkwear runs small. I do have a rectangular frame and I was surprised that this fit my bust perfectly and just slinked around the rest of me (maybe 2 inches of ease in waist and hip?) and I chocked that up to the bias cut. But for you: How about fitting it at the bust and grading up or down (depending on your measurements) toward the hips accordingly? It is just one big triangle, so hopefully it won't be hard to grade! :)
What a lovely and luxurious thing! The finishing is beautiful! Love it!
ReplyDeleteSilk lingerie is on my wish-to-sew list and now I feel that I will move it up. But fine lace is so expensive here :(.
Beautiful slip Ali. The color of the silk is stunning. I like the way a slip feels next to my skin, in any season. A full slip allows the blouse or dress to glide over the slip and creates a smoother line. Skirts hang better over a slip. Silk is, of course, the best. I have also used a light weight batiste or swiss nelona in a bias cut for summer. Cotton laces, French or Swiss also are comfortable next to the skin.
ReplyDeletei love your slip - I have one on my to-sew list for long time! I think, a slip is wonderful with dresses, skirts or just as a sleepwear...
ReplyDeleteOh that is -wow - gorgeous! And as you say - totally luxurious! I love the colour and the lace and the shape! :)
ReplyDeleteThat slip is really beautiful, I love the lace edging! I actually bought some yellow silk in Singapore with the intention of making a slip. I really should put that onto my summer sewing list... :)
ReplyDeleteThis is beautiful. I've been thinking of making a slip, but haven't found the right fabric or pattern.
ReplyDeleteIt is SO pretty! I don't doubt that you have been taken with such fine & pretty sewing. I've tried making a couple of slips & like the idea of full slips, only neither have worked out perfectly for one reason or another. My biggest success has to be a waist slip - it is so useful & cool in the summer- I need to make more as they are so easy. It's funny, I feel as if I have rediscovered them- my Mum's a great slip wearer & I can remember being made them through my childhood & early teen years. I wonder at what point we stop wearing them?
ReplyDeleteTank you for the tip, Ali! Although I actually think the problem is partly due to what enchanted me, at fisrt, with the pattern : the fact that the pieces are exactly similar fo the front and the back of the slip. Hum! I'll give it more thoughts when autumn comes...
ReplyDeleteWow - this looks great, Ali! Well done. :-)
ReplyDeleteI love slips, I almost always wear them underneath dresses and skirts, as they make the outfit more complete, I think. I made one full slip last summer that I wear the most, it´s silk as well, and I have a couple of vintage half slips that comes in handy as well.
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