A Little Jacket: Fall Essential, Numero Dos

For my second item in the Fall Essentials Sew-Along and the Colette Patterns Fall Palette Challenge, I made myself a little jacket.

I say little because 1) I'm not used to wearing jackets, I've been a die-hard cardigan gal through-and-through and 2) the hem is shorter than what I'm used to! It feels little.

The inspiration can be largely traced back to EmersonMade's Tweed Jacket, inspired by the 60s.


Need I say more? And then there's this lovely from J. Crew:


I was also inspired by gorgeous jackets made by Sunni and ScruffyBadger. So I decided to take the great jacket leap.

Taking a cue from Solvi, I'll try and start "reviewing" my projects -- it's helpful for me to reflect on a finished object, and I hope some of it is helpful to you.

Pattern: Built by Wendy Coats & Jacket Book, Fitted Jacket pattern with help from two other jacket/coat patterns on transforming the jacket into a notched collar blazer.

Type of Garment: Jacket/Blazer

Fabric Used: Shell—Vintage felted wool, brown. Lining—purple, likely polyester. Both thrifted.

Notions: Two buttons, 3/4 inch

Age in stash: Pattern, less than a year. Wool, about two years. Lining, new to me.

Size: Small

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I made a quick muslin and realized I needed a few alterations to the pattern.

• Sleeve too full in the upper arm, tightened by an inch using technique in Fit for Real People
• Small Bust Adjustment on princess seams
• Lengthened bodice by 1-1/2 inches, shortened sleeves to 3/4 length
• Added rounded edges to front of jacket
• Drafted facing and full lining.
  
• Added 3/4 extension for button closure to front pieces
  
• The collar didn’t reach all the way to the front and the bodice front seemed quite low for what I was going for. Copied a collar and undercollar and adjusted front bodice from another pattern to get a notched collar. Needed to add height to rear bodice to make the collar wrap around the neck better.

Instructions: In these franken-patterns, I need to use a pattern that closely approximates what I’m going for. So, I mostly used the incredible directions from the Colette Lady Grey coat, since it’s also a fully-lined, princess seam jacket. The only change was that I love the way BBW patterns sew the sleeves flat (rather than set-in), so I did that.

Did it meet expectations?

At first, I was obsessed about whether the collar was hugging my neck enough, since I was after a tailored look. I actually had to add a piece mid-construction to help this problem but the spread between the two lapels is still wider than I’d like. I was also dubious about the length, wondering if it was too short. Another 1-1/2 longer might be perfect. And in the next iteration I may rotate the shoulder seam forward a tad.

That said, this little jacket is really growing on me. I love that it’s fully lined, and it seems to pair nicely with skirts and dresses and deep colors with higher necklines. It’s really something that well help entice some things out of my closet, will help me with new combos.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Despite all my changes, I’ll certainly look to the basic fitted jacket pattern or others in the book for future jackets/coats. It’s really a great foundation and the possibilities seem endless. A muslin, though, is a must.

Also, this is the first time I’ve worked with a pattern without seam allowances. Love it. So easy. So inviting to experiment.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Definitely. I’ve thought about using other variations on the basic fitted jacket for a good-looking fleece jacket this winter. Nothing seems to serve me better when I’m chilly. Something I could both wear to bed and out to the store.

Any new techniques?

Yes! I took a foolhardy whack at padstitching the collar, but I used real canvas rather than hair canvas. I’d only do this again if it was absolutely necessary the lapels stay in place.

And bound buttonholes, baby! Still trying to find a technique I really love. Tried Gertie’s and settled on the patch method in the Reader’s Digest book. Next time, I’ll try Tasia of Sewaholic’s tute. Not sure if they’re worth it, but in something with just a few buttonholes it does give it a nice look.

Conclusion:

Generally, I’ve come to the conclusion that I’m only pleased with something I’ve made a second time around because the first time’s all about learning my way around the type of garment. Though I’ve never made a jacket with a notched collar before, last year’s semi-success of the Colette Lady Grey coat and the muslin infinitely helped. I think this is paving the way for me to start wearing jackets in place of my omnipresent cardigans.

What about you? Are you a jacket gal? And if so, how would you describe your favorite jacket?