The Little Earthquakes Pant: Colette Clover, Take 1

As I've mentioned, I'm a bit obsessed with making pants. I was tickled when I discovered Colette Patterns was releasing its first pants pattern this fall, the Clover, which was exactly the kind of pant I've been trying to produce: A slim, ankle length pant, reminiscent of the 1960s.

 

I've had this stretch navy twill in my stash forever. I love and hate this stuff equally. I bought yards of it at a Salvation Army probably a year and a half ago and used it for my Saggy Butt Capris (R.I.P.). Compared to nonstretch wovens, this fabric is flimsy and frustrating and attracts lint like the devil. Each time I do a cull, I try and throw the leftover yards in the donation pile and then snap it back out, having a hard time parting with what holds so much promise: a neutral with stretch. Surely, I can find some use for it.

You can see where this is going, right? I used my crappy twill fabric on this great pattern. Any of my unhappiness with the final product can be chalked up to fabric choice and not-so-careful planning during the fitting process. The side zipper ripples and I look like I walked out of a dustbin.

That said, I really loved wearing these today. The stretch is comfy and I love the ankle length: So, so versatile.

As I made these, we experienced several little earthquakes, I'd say 4-5 in a 3-week period. Usually unfettered, I found myself shook up by the frequency, worrying about the boy coming back home over the Bay Bridge. The name's also fitting given the problems this little project gave me (and did I mention I also destroyed its first zipper? Sigh).

Pattern: Colette Clover

Type of Garment: Slim ankle pants with waistband pockets and side zip

Fabric Used: Stretchy navy twill, purple and blue gingham for pockets

Notions: 7 inch zipper, twill tape

Age in stash: Fabric, thrifted, 1.5 years old

Size: I’m 28 W and 37 H, so I went by my hip size, Size 4. Inseam 26 1/4 inches.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Where do I begin? I was mainly worried about my swayback  and I started with a large waist increase, adding an inch. The muslin sewed up seemingly fine.

Once I was putting  my final touches on my fashion fabric, other fit issues became glaringly clear: I needed a narrow hip adjustment and a flat belly adjustment. The latter may be a different adjustment, given that the ill-fit cue was 2 inches of fold at the crotch, but the flat belly adjustment was the best option given the fact that I was 90 percent done. Talk about being pencil shaped: bigger waist, smaller everything else! 

Instructions:

Excellent as always.

Did it meet expectations?

Yes and no. Great pattern, but I used subpar fabric and all these fitting issues may not be handy when I use a fabric with less stretch (I’m sure this has more than 2% stretch). There’s some wear on the fabric from the constant seam ripping, I couldn’t get the flat fell seams just right and there’s still excess ease at the hip area. Excess + stretch fabric + zipper = Rippling side seams! Ugh. I doubt I’ll ever tuck anything into it so I can hide the bulge.

On the upside, I really love the leg shape, the fit in the rear, and how comfortable it is to have stretch pants! I can bike and sit comfortably. I’m also liking the navy color, pairs well with many colors (coral, a recent fave) and it feels versatile while being a step up form my usual dark denim.

 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I really liked the shaped waistband, the midrise, and the pockets are a nice touch. More than anything I like how simple this is, so I can focus on fit. I  should give a shout-out to the great sew-along and fitting advice over at Colette Patterns blog, Coletterie. I would’ve been lost without it, really demystifies fit issues.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, definitely. I’ve been dying for a red pair but I’ve got a nonstretch red twill and I’m afraid that it may be a feat. Either way, this pattern’s really a keeper. I’d love to also try adapting it to have a front fly and pockets for a different look.

Conclusion:

Great TNT potential of a classic look.
 
Out of curiosity: Do you have these fabrics you wished you loved (but don't) in your stash? Do you try and find a project for them or do you move on and move up, quality-wise?