The Story of Stuff: Becoming a Thoughtful Consumer

Thank you all for your wonderful ideas on how to approach this challenge. All of your comments point to the question, What do I really want to get out of this? And the simple answer is: I want to become a more thoughtful consumer.

Though I admire those who have completely sworn off clothing consumption, I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t want to stop buying altogether. I like possibility, the playfulness that a wardrobe entails. I enjoy seeing how things come together, both in constructing garments and constructing outfits. Most of the time I’ll play a part in this construction, and sometimes I’ll buy it. Problem is, I live in a culture that treats any level of purchasing restraint as (to be flip about it) “one giant step for man.”

Which is why I think I’ve a lot to learn from purchasing behavior of the 1940s. From the 1950s forward, the landscape of consumption changed, creating a culture that frequently feels inextricable from my own idea of “normal.” I often resist getting mired in the political, what a joykill when it’s so much fun to dream of pretty little dresses!

But when you sew, you can’t ignore how cheap ready-to-wear is. Really, even just the price of the pattern, fabric and notions will often and easily outrank its ready-to-wear counterpart, not even taking into account all the labor. (And sewing is hard!) It was sewing that introduced me to quality, skilled labor, a burgeoning sense of the true value of things.

Before I lose you entirely, here are some examples:

First, a dip into the 1940s. Here are women in the UK getting their stockings painted on their legs during the war years. It doesn’t use any coupons, and by the end of the war, there were hardly any to use at all. The price of a man's coat, as one person put it, could use a whole year's coupons.

Fast forward to today:

• We consume twice as much as we did 50 years ago
• Americans devote 3-4 times the time to shopping then our European counterparts
• Shopping is a primary leisure activity
• Consumers in the US spend more on clothes than any other country
• Since the 1950s, material goods have been increasingly designed for the dump or to fall out of favor within a matter of months

This last point is a real shocker, but if my completely anecdotal evidence is any indication, it makes sense. Perhaps this is why thrifting can be so fruitful. In a thrift store, I’m a brand snob because it’s there for the taking. Many of my work clothes come from Banana Republic, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Kenneth Cole, Gap, Ann Taylor, and the list goes on. Sometimes it still has the tags on. And all for less than $10.

So how do I reconcile this contemporary behavior with the 1940s? I can see that a skirt, say, in the 1940s, may have cost $70 in today’s dollars, but is there a “real” price that takes into account this cultural shift?

As I said in the comments, when I first saw the price thresholds for second-hand during the ration, I thought I’d use them. But the more I thought of my buying behavior and options where I live, I though I’d better have a system in place. Whenever I face a new transition (the seasons, for example), I am full of the desire for new-to-me things.

So I’ll continue to mull it over, but my as-of-now thresholds will be 1/3 of the 1940s threshold. I’ve just ordered the book, per hearthandmade’s suggestion, Sucking Eggs: What Your Wartime Granny Could Teach You About Diet, Thrift and Going Green by Patricia Nicol. And for anyone interested with consumption, check out the convos Zoe’s beginning on So, Zo….

Finally, if you haven’t seen the documentary, The Story of Stuff, I’d highly recommend it. It's the source of many of my points above and is a bit sobering. It's all available online, and here’s the “Consumption” chapter.



I could go on and on (remember my obsessive behavior?), but I’d like to show you some finished objects, so I’m off to sew. :)

But I’d love your thoughts. Do you think we consume more than generations before us? And has this been a boon or a sacrifice or both? And should we care?

Go Sparingly: The Value of Clothes

Rationing

Of Clothing, Cloth and Footwear

From June, 1941

Rationing has been introduced not to deprive you of your real needs, but to make more certain that you get your share of the country's goods - to get fair shares with everybody else.

When the shops re-open you will be able to buy cloth, clothes, footwear and knitting wool only if you bring your food ration book with you. The shopkeeper will detach the required number of coupons from the unused margarine page. Each margarine coupon counts as one coupon towards the purchase of clothing and footwear. You will have a total of 66 coupons to last you a year; so go sparingly. You can buy where you like and when you like without registering.

***

Thanks for your incredible comments and support! I’m excited to begin my Fashion on the Ration challenge. So I’ve got 66 coupons and here’s what this can buy me:

Common garments, coupon price if bought new
Winter coat 14
Jacket, blazer, short coat 11
Dress, wool 11
Dress, non-wool 7
Cardigan 5
Blouses, tees 5
Skirt 7
Slacks 8
Shorts 5
Pair of boots, shoes 5
Fabric, yard, wool 3
Fabric, yard, non-wool 2

Mid-war, coupons fell to 48 a year and by 1945 clothing coupons were as low as 36 a year. Sewing notions were not rationed nor were second-hand clothes below a certain threshold. Susannah helped me out on this one. Using the Measuring Worth calculator, she used these modern-day equivalents of price thresholds:

Common garments, price ($) threshold for second-hand
Winter coat 45
Jacket, blazer, short coat 20
Dress, wool 41
Dress, non-wool 26
Cardigan 20
Blouses, tees 15
Skirt 15
Slacks 19
Shorts 11
Pair of boots, shoes 15

Susannah adds, “The interesting thing is that the government set these price thresholds fairly low to prevent merchants from selling new clothing as secondhand, but clothing in 2011 is so incredibly cheap compared with clothing in the 1940s that you could easily stock a modern wardrobe with new clothing that didn't exceed these price limits.”

Indeed! When I look at these numbers—in pounds, as converted to the dollar would be even more generous—it's glaringly clear how much the price of clothes has plummeted. I've always known we both pay less and buy more than our grandmothers, but does this surprise you too?

So now here's my dilemma: I don't think it will be any trouble to stick within these limits. In fact, buying a few new things and a whole bunch of thrifted clothes sounds like business as usual. I usually pick up clothes for much less than $10 an item. (Typical non-sale prices at area thrift stores: $5.99 for a blouse, $7.99 skirts/pants, $8.99 dress, and $19.99 for a winter coat. Not to mention 50 percent off sales abound.) Further, I live in a place chock full of great second-hand stores without any real inclement weather.

What would you do? Would you lower these secondhand price thresholds to make it a real challenge? Would you simply try to buy "in spirit of" the ration (focus on quality, useful clothing)? Any ideas?

By the way, a shout out to the boy (a graphic designer) for listening to me prattle on about my new challenge and designing a little bling for the ol 'blog, at left. And a few of you expressed interest, so by all means join me if inspiration strikes!

New Year, New Challenge: Fashion on the Ration

MRS SEW & SEW

Above is an official government cartoon featuring Mrs. Sew and Sew a "woman of resource and ideas" who promoted the "make do and mend" philosophy of the lean World War II years. In Britain, clothes were rationed from 1941-1949. At the beginning of the ration, women were allotted 66 coupons to spend on a year's wardrobe. Because clothing was limited, sewing and what we'd now call "refashioning" was essential. After all, as the voice over states, "Just think of the coupons you'll save!"

---

Last year, I sewed furiously. I wanted lots: Lots of thrifted clothes, lots of patterns, lots of fabric, lots of homemade items. I think this is part of my M.O., as whenever I embark on something new, obsessive behavior sets in. As an example, seven years ago, I began a vegetable garden and my hoarding tendencies followed suit: sewing patterns were heirloom seeds, fabric yards were cubic feet of steer, chicken manure and sea kelp, and I needed a serger like I needed a coiled garden hose. I even (badly) maintained an espaliered lemon tree for a while.

And my sewing is following a similar trajectory. It's slowing way, way down. All that obsessive sewing has equipped me with the tools and skills to begin sewing consciously. I've donated many of the initial items I made as I'm finally getting confident enough to to 'fess up to my own shoddy work. I'm also getting better at knowing what types of clothes flatter me and it's getting easier to resist stockpiling things I'll never wear.

I feel I'm ready for a challenge: a framework that will both push me and organize an aspect of my life that has been whim to every desire. I've been inspired by many great challenges out there: Think of Zoe, who who took a lifetime Wardrobe Refashion pledge; of Solvi, who just wrapped up a year of not buying new clothes; of Sarah's Thrifty365 Pledge; and Isis' Ethical Clothing Pledge. And the list goes on.

In my last post, I noted how inspired I was by Susannah of Cargo Cult Craft's "Fashion on the Ration," challenge, as she just completed a year living on the 1941 ration. In a post reflecting on the challenge, she says:

Because everything I’ve bought or sewed in these 12 months has had to pull its weight, probably the #1 most important thing I’ve taken away from FOTR is the 90% rule: 90% of my wardrobe needs to equip me for my real life, not my fantasy life. Therefore, no matter how fun it is to perv out on patterns for 1930s bias-cut evening gowns and whatnot, I need to focus 90% of the money, time and effort I put into sewing and shopping time on clothing for my real life.

It comes as no surprise to you, readers, that I totally dig this. Though my fantasy life takes me through decades and dresses, my finished objects attest to my desire for clothes I'll actually wear. In another post, Susannah adds:

Everyday clothing is, after all, what I spend every day in. Didn’t it deserve the kind of attention, imagination, enthusiasm and budget I’d formerly reserved for my showier sewing projects? Shouldn’t I be able to look and feel good at the office, around town, on the couch? Wouldn’t it be great to open my Normal Wardrobe every morning and see a bunch of garments I could get as excited about as the stuff in my Dress-up Chest?

Yes, yes, yes!

And so today, Jan. 23, 2011 I begin my own Fashion on the Ration challenge, shamelessly copied from Cargo Cult Craft. For the next year, I will only use my allotted 66 "coupons" to buy new clothing and fabric. I will continue to sew, refashion and thrift items below a certain threshold. More details on the nitty-gritty in an upcoming post.

But here's why I dig it and why I think it fits:

The Quality Factor

• Because the coupons limit how many items you can buy, it behooves me to buy quality. I'm such a cheapskate that I need this sort of permission.
• I enjoy shopping more than I enjoy buying. Shopping, to me, is all about possibility. Buying, however, is a demand on a product that usually doesn't live up to its promise. I'm realizing that quality items, regardless of how much I paid, fill me with gratitude. Cheap crap, on the other hand, frustrates me with my own bad judgment. This is true of sewing, too. Hello, quality fabric, quality details.

The Style Factor

• My primary interest is sewing and style for my real life, no matter how plain that is. Busy girl, I need things that pull their weight. Versatility and durability are key. This year I'd like to focus on how I can have these things in my closet and make them beautiful as well.
  
• Since stockpiling clothes will no longer be part of my M.O. I can move beyond just clothing in my pursuit of a personal style. Perhaps I can finally get over my fear of bobby pins and up the earring pair queue by more than two.
• Since this challenge is rooted in 1941, this will be a wonderful opportunity to explore vintage fashion.
  

The Moolah Factor

• I appreciate that the option to buy new clothing and fabric is not limitless, just as my bank account and closet space are not limitless.
• I hardly buy new, but I'm curious if that's just the story I tell myself, and that all the little purchases add up. This will be an excuse to keep track.
  

When I mentioned to Susannah that I was interested in this challenge, she gave me these words of warning:

Oh my. Words of warning? Here’s one: Be prepared to discover garments you really can’t make yourself, buy secondhand or go without. Running shoes and bathingsuits, for instance!

Here’s another: Be prepared to spend a lot of time in shops looking closely at clothes and roaring with frustration. Also, if you try to bone up on what styles suit your body shape, be prepared to welter in a sea of conflicting advice.

I've been warned. I may self-destruct by summer, but I'll document that as well. Either way, thanks Susannah, for the inspiration!

And so it begins. So long cheap crap. So long hoarding.

Wish me luck!

The Tale of Two Turtlenecks

Hello, strangers! Part of the reason I've been absent is I've been living sans internets. But the Comcast guy came yesterday, and we're back in business!

(Green lights of glory)

So now I can not only read my blogroll and email but respond and comment as well. No more trolling darkened streets after work just to get my internet fix.

On to the sewing! It feels like forever that I've shared something with you. I had these two wool turtlenecks. The first is something I grabbed out of the boy's donation stash, a charcoal gray sweater.


The second I thrifted because I was trying to figure out how to utilize a gorgeous yoke knitted and given to me by my crafty gal-pal, Jessica, after I'd been oogling this pretty sweater of hers.


And voila! An outfit from two turtlenecks.


What I did: I cut up the gray sweater using the Sew U: Homestretch skirt pattern and whipped it up in a matter of minutes. I used (and tightened) the lower rib for the waistband, which folds over and can control the length. Though I've been too lazy to do it, I would add some elastic to keep it snug since it can shimmy down with wear.

But honest-to-goodness, I love this skirt. It's so simple and it feels like I'm wearing sweatpants while avoiding looking like I haven't left the house all day. I can throw this on over leggings, tights, or knee- or thigh-highs and cuddle up at home or run out for errands.

For the top, I just laid the yoke on top and stitched it in place using a narrow zig-zag, then cut the excess (north of the yoke) and serged the edges. I cut off the ribbed sleeve openings and reattached them on shortened sleeves, and I also took in the sweater a few inches on the sides.

Look at how special Jessica's yoke makes an otherwise plain top:

The first time I wore it, a friend immediately complimented it. Though it seems perfect paired with skirts, I love that I it can also dress up jeans. I've worn this at least weekly since I whipped it up. To use Sarah's mantra in her Thrifty 365 pledge, this is definitely Useful, Meaningful and Joyful. It fills a hole in my closet, it was partially constructed by a friend, and it makes me happy when I wear it.

I've really only been able to steal moments here and there to sew, but here's a few small things I've been up to:


Lemon pillows! Also Useful, Meaningful and Joyful. I needed new pillows and the fabric comes from my friend Shelley, who's now in Melbourne.


Guess what that is? Self-drafted pants pattern! So. Excited. Though I had problems with my self-drafted skirt pattern, I really wanted to own one good pants pattern that fit my body perfectly. This is especially true after my saggy butt drama and the fact that I keep thrifting pants and want to alter the leg and have no consistent way to do it.

Though I've yet to make a muslin (and I'm sure I'll have fitting issues with the waist, hips, crotch), I learned a ton by drafting these. It really made me think of my measurements in two dimensions and why pants patterns have the shape they do. Ideally, I'll have a single pattern to refer to for slim-fitting capris, ankle and floor length bottoms.


Finally, I'm utterly inspired by Susannah's Fashion on the Ration challenge!

Happy sewing all!

Inspiration & Originality: You go girl

Happy New Year! Thanks to those who entered the giveaway. CT Mom got the dress and the bag, and Debbie de Minnado's House will get the shoes!

Thanks for your incredible responses to my question, "Are you a book-person or a pattern-person?" It was so fascinating to read your perspective. Many of you said you utilize both and, in hindsight, I probably gave short shrift to patterns. As Taran says, "We shouldn't have to choose! And neither do you! "

But your comments got me thinking. Roobeedoo might have hit it on the head when she wrote:

I am a real sucker for the "lifestyle" that the photographs in a book portray - so I spend hours at my sock-knitting pattern books, ogling the model's pyjamas / cushions / mugs / garden instead of getting on with my knitting!

I thought, "Yes, that's exactly it!" I'm totally a sucker for lifestyle, or put another way, the style and personality images express. I can daydream for hours in this universe that's been half built by the author and illustrator/photographer and half built by me putting myself in the clothes (fast-forwarding to them actually being sewn, it is my fantasy after all!). Speaking of pretty photographs, I've been oogling Japanese sewing books (like Scruffy Badger) and Burda Magazine (like Solvi) for a while, but if I were to procure them, it's quite possible I'd get no sewing done at all.

Patterns can offer style and individuality but largely through sewers, in my opinion. That's why I love the blogosphere. I typically turn to other bloggers (you!) for inspiration. I love seeing the possibility of patterns, how a single pattern can be interpreted numerous ways. It's just so damn creative. I can't tell you how many times I've seen a project on one of your blogs and thought, "I'd never think to pick up that pattern from the envelope illustration but it's lovely made up!" or "What an unexpected color choice that totally works!" or "Wow, this is a totally new take on this pattern." Or simply, "You go girl!"

See, the thing is, I fear I'm not very original. I envy all of you who can look at a pattern illustration or sketch and dream up your own unique vision. Like Karen, I just love the photos that books and blogs offer. She wrote:

I guess my imagination just needs some help! Of course the danger with that is it's harder to imagine variations in color or fabric (like in Twinkle Sews which I LOVE I get one variation stuck in my head and it's harder to think how it would look in, say, a different weight or color of fabric).

Yes again! Twinkle Sews, unlike my other sewing books, does not offer variations on patterns. The first project I'd like to make is this Skyline Skirt, far right:


And guess what I'm making it in? Navy and black and white houndstooth.


Oh, and there's the Rooibos pattern on the way to me, and guess what I'm thinking? Navy blue with white trim. My excuse is that I've got it in my stash, but the truth is I haven't been able to get it out of my head since I first saw this photo. And the list of imagined projects that don't stray far from the original photograph goes on and on.

Something about this feels like shopping the hard way. Or sewing sans agency. Me see, me likey, and then try to replicate is exactly.

I hope this is part of the maturation process of sewing, that the more I sew, the more chances I'll take. I'll get a better handle on my own personal style, fabric choice and be more courageous to concoct what I don't see. And perhaps I won't always need variations to very obviously see what appeals in a range of options.

What are your tendencies on this issue? How do you dream up original takes on patterns? Where do you find your inspiration if it's not in the pattern itself? Books and blogs serve this function for me, but perhaps its fabric or magazines for you? And do you care about making each piece "you"?

By the way, through Karen, I discovered the Crafty Book Challenge, an opportunity to actually use your craft books in 2011. And I promise sewing-related posts to come, I've got two quick pieces to share with you.

Happy sewing!