So ... about Me-Made-June

According to Tasia, the sewaholic who just designed a gorgeous *new* dress, the Canadian postmen are delivering! Canadians & Everyone Else, you can still enter to win a handmade, sultry collarette from RococoNouveau by clicking here. Ends July 4!

On the final day of Me-Made-June, I present photographic proof that I actually participated!

I finally realized that a good tripod can go a long way in easing what is frequently my photography woes, my least favorite part of blogging (the lighting's not right OR my face looks funny OR the hem's not crooked, it's just the way I'm standing, really). Though I've waffled on being regular about it, here's 10 photos I managed to capture, in no particular order.

Me-Made: Knit dress using the Sew U Homestretch dress pattern. I made this last year, but finally chopped off the gathered sleeves. They made me way too Imelda with the heavy fabric

Fabric: Thrifted green knit with white stubs. Sweatshirt weight.

Others: Second-hand cardi, thrifted shoes

Me-Made: Lisette Passport Dress, Simplicity 2209

Fabric: Cotton received as a gift from family, from the Philippines

Others: Thrifted cardi and flats

Me-Made: Colette Rooibos, reimagined

Fabric: Oversized knit striped top, broadcloth from an old muumuu

Others: Clarks flats, second-hand

Me-Made: Colette Rooibos, the mini version (can't wait til it's hot enough to wear this again!)

Fabric: Denim, from stash

Others: Clarks, second hand

Me-Made: 1960s wrap skirt, McCalls 7468

Fabric: Mystery thrifted fabric, definitely polyester

Others: Second hand cardi and top, chopped from my sister's tunic

Me-Made: Sweet and Sassy Skirt from SESA'10, McCalls 5803 (those pleats needs an iron!), ivory blouse using blouse block

Fabric: Both thrifted, the skirt is medium-weight (cotton?), the blouse was made with an oversized polyester blouse.

Others: Thrifted jacket

Me-Made: Knit top using 1950s Simplicity 3263 from SESA '10, and knit cigarette pants from self-drafted pants pattern

Fabric: The knit top was made using a 1980s top I found in my aunt's garage with the tags still on and linebacker shoulder pads, the pants from oversized thrifted pants.

Others: Gray cardi, flats

Me-Made: Khakis using self-drafted pants pattern. I chopped these to capri length since this photo

Fabric: Oversized khakis, thrifted

Others: Second hand cardi and flats

Me-Made: Knit dress, as above. It was a cold morning.

Others: Second hand cardi and scarf

Me-Made: Black blouse with peter pan collar, using blouse block and 1950s Simplicity 3263

Fabric: An oversized Eileen Fisher, Italian linen

Others: Thrifted jeans

I do love this challenge, it forces us to wear our me-made garments: both forgiving them and showing them off. I didn't love all of these outfits, but they each taught me something about sewing and style. I admit to slipping on a few days, June was a rough month in other matters and those days I spent all day sewing, which I think is just as good since I often sew in my underwears (oh, to have a dress form ...)

But two quick observations:

1) Almost everything I wore and sewed with was second-hand, both sourcing my fabrics from discarded clothes or stashes and my non-me-mades from thrift stores, garage sales, or as hand-me-downs. How's that for sustainability?

2) I used several patterns multiple times, which just bolsters my desire to get a set of blocks—or tried and true patterns—that I can really refine and then go wild with. The Blouse Block appears in these 10 photos twice, some variation of Simplicity 3263 three times, the self-drafted pants pattern twice, and the Colette Rooibos twice.

And finally, there's nothing like a month of me-made wearing to realize how much of the closet I actually wear. I've culled a big garbage bag of clothing that will either be donated or reused in a creative way. It feels good; I feel like I can focus when I'm in my closet.

How was your Me-Made-June??

Happy sewing!

First Foray into Blouse Block Territory: Trying to Figure Out Fit & Ease

Giveaway: One-of-a-kind collarette from RococoNouveau. Ends on July 4. Click there to enter!

On my summer essentials list, I planned to use my newly acquired bodice/blouse block, adapting it to look like Simplicity 3263 from the 1950s. The goal was to have one ivory scoop collar sleeveless blouse and one black with a peter pan collar. The kind of essentials you can use again and again.


Before I show off my less than perfect wares, two things are worth mentioning 1) My waist is not that tiny. Oh, pattern photos, they deceive and 2) I always forget how much work goes into refining a pattern and this'll take time.

For the ivory blouse, I used an oversized thrifted top -- drapey with a bit of sheen. My first introduction to how drapeyness (drapiness? drapability? ha), er, fabric drape, can drastically effect fit. It seems you can go down an entire size if you're using a very drape-y fabric. I also learned the important of edgestitching such fabrics to prevent puckering that occurs at my typical 1/4 inch topstitch. A million little tweaks later:

Nothing much to holler about, it sort of pulls in the wrong places but that might have to do with the fabric. In fact, I may not need/want to use contour darts in drapey fabric again, instead folding in the darts on the pattern before cutting the fabric. The top reflects the 50s neckline and the hem of the original shirt. Don't like the hem, but am afraid if I chop it off it will affect its tuck-ability.

More than anything, I hope this'll be a great layering piece. Here it is with the sweet and sassy skirt from last year (McCalls 5803). Nice with a short jacket or cardi.


For the black blouse, I used a thrifted Eileen Fisher tunic made of Italian linen, though there must be a bit of polyester because it doesn't wrinkle. Just a really beautiful fabric to work with. I traced the peter pan collar from the vintage pattern.


I'm torn on this -- I LOVE the fit of the blouse and the feel of the fabric but I'm of too minds about the collar. Retro? Yes. A wee bit prim? Uh, yes. But I sported this to see X-Men: First Class (Michael Fassbender: I love you) last night with jeans, heels and a red cardi and I was feeling pretty good! It definitely feels like one of those basics that has just a touch of flair. I can imagine sporting this with grotesquely large and colorful fabric flowers.

Above, I'm trying to show off the collar, but black is difficult to photograph. Here's a close-up:

I'm very crooked here, but I suspect the collar is a bit too :0.

The linen, too, ran large, because when I made a muslin incorporating all the changes I made on this linen version, I could barely breathe! In fact, that seems like the incredible benefit of me using the same pattern over and over is that I can start to understand the difference between fabrics & fit. At least now I have two versions of the blouses block -- one very tight fitting (good when adapting for fitted dresses, say) and one more classically fitted for blouses that I can pull over my head or add a button placket to for a classic oxford look.

This first foray into working with my blouse block has got me obsessed with ease, asking myself, How much do you need? How much looks good? In the Colette Patterns Rooibos dress I just made, the bust had a scant 1/2 inch ease. I had to go up a size as it was too tight. For this project, I adopted this bodice block using measurements from Fit For Real People: a standard fitted bodice has about 2 inches in the bust, 1 inch in the waist and 1-1/2 inches in the hip (-ish). And I'll say that conforms pretty nicely to my body.

What I didn't realize is that ease is also dependent on your overall size. The smaller you are, the less ease you need, and vice-versa. I've been thinking it's better to think of ease in terms of percentages—7-10% of your measurements, I've read, is the ease in classically fitted garments.

What about you? For shaped garments, how do you approach ease? Do you like a lot of ease in your blouses/dresses in the bust and waist? Less? How do you strike that balance between looking good and having enough movement in your clothes?

Happy sewing!!

International Giveaway: Handmade Collarette from rococonouveau!

Wowza! The Blackie O'Reilly collarette from rococonouveau.

Because the world didn't end, a one-of-a-kind, reversible collarette could be yours!

See, the world was supposedly going to end on May 21, and a friend had the forethought to arrange a lovely little shindig by the lake. Croquet and cucumber sandwiches and tea and argyle. That's where I met Kristen Adam, the incredibly talented proprietess of rococonouveau.

Just the week before I had discovered rococonouveau's Etsy storefront, unforgettable for its photos: sexy, creative and totally fun. Her wares? Reversible collarettes with themed names, handmade. Kristen sources her fabrics either locally or from vintage or repurposed fabrics.

Kristen says she "makes stuff." A gal after our own heart, no? Read on for a little Q&A with this new crafty friend and to enter a giveaway for one of these gorgeous wares.


How did you learn to sew?

When I was little my mom sold what she called “wearable art” at the local art fairs in our home town. They were these beautiful pieces like vests, belts, skirts, etc., which were constructed of several pieces of fabric that she randomly cut up and then sewed back together in a kaleidoscope like pattern before assembling the finished piece. I always loved what she did and I think she recognized my interest so she began teaching me how to make my own dresses and things. Once I had a little bit of sewing machine know-how I kind of just ran with it and started DIYing my own patterns.

Candy Striper collarette, Side 1

Tell us about your collarettes. They've got such great names and sultry photos! I imagine you have a lot of fun with them.

The photoshoot might have been the most fun part of this project so far. I thought it would be fun and interesting to give each collar a name and do a little themed shoot with props, giving each piece a distinct personality. And yes, they are pretty saucy as well! One day I threw out the idea that I was looking for friends who were willing to be photographed semi-nude and was shocked by how many of my lady friends were instantly into the idea. So I made a day of it, had them all over with some cocktails and snacks and we basically had an all day super girly dress up party. Getting the overwhelmingly positive reactions from my lady friends when I sent them their finished photos was priceless. They all look so beautiful, I couldn’t be more happy with how that all turned out.

Candy Striper collarette, Side 2

What are various ways you can wear them?

I get this question a lot and I think I’ll be blogging some outfit ideas soon at my brand spanking new website. My current favorite way to wear them is with tank tops or anything that’s strapless. It’s been so hot around here recently, so it’s a great way to spice up any cute summery outfit. Plus, the great thing about the collarettes I currently have up in my shop is that they are reversible, so you have double the options for getting creative with with your outfits!

Gilda collarette, Side 1

Where do you source your fabrics?

I favor using vintage and repurposed materials whenever possible, making a portion of my pieces as unique as they are eco-friendly – an important consideration in these times. Plus, I’ve always loved the challenge of reusing materials and transforming them into something beautiful and new. I have some prints that I’ve been holding onto for years which I found in a little thrift shop in my hometown of Redding, CA. It’s the kind of place that’s owned by a man so old, you don’t know how he’s still standing upright and running a cash register. AKA, my favorite. I also do a lot of buying and altering second-hand dresses and keep all the remnants to use for making things. Other than that my favorite fabric store right now is Fabrix out in the Inner Richmond area of SF. It’s kind of the place where fabrics go when they die, so you have to do some serious treasure hunting. But with a little patience you can really find some gems.

Gilda collarette, Side 2

How would you describe the style of rococonouveau?

For as long as I can remember I’ve felt a particular connection to things of the past: vintage and period fashions, early 20th century classic film, vintage erotica & pinup photography, art deco architecture, art nouveau textiles & jewelry, and the gilded splendour of the rococo era. The goal in all my work on this project is to merge the essence of these core inspirations with the modernity of the 21st century. Thereby preserving the beauty of these bygone styles in a way that is relevant to today’s aesthetics. Hence, the name rococonouveau!

How to Enter the rococonouveau Giveaway:

• Kristen is willing to ship internationally -- giveaway open to all!
• Leave a comment telling us which collarette you'd like to win—either the Candy Striper OR the Gilda, both pictured above—and how you'd rock it with an outfit.
• Provide your email so I can contact you about your fabulous prize.
• Giveaway ends at the end of July 4, PST.
• Winner will be chosen by a random number generator.

Finally, Kristen has generously offered a 10 percent discount to readers! Here's a discount code for her Etsy shop: TWRFRIENDS, good until July 15!

:)

Summer Essentials: Roiboosi

Colette Patterns' Rooibos pattern may be the perfect dress for me. The wide neckline, fitted bust, high inset waist and an A-line short skirt adds up to give my small-busted rectangular shape a little curve. Oh, it's love.

So I write to you today with not just one but TWO versions of the Rooibos. My test driving went well and I've serged off the seam allowances and am utterly delighted with it (er, them).

Rooibos, the first:

Sizing: I cut a size 2 for the Bodice and 4 for the skirt but found the 2 a tad too tight and the skirt awfully flared for the denim I was using for this dress. Even with the 2, I made a small bust adjustment, but had to reduce the seam allowances at the bodice to 3/8. I also increased the seam allowance at the bottom of the skirt to an inch, grading back to the original at the hip. And actually that's worth mentioning: This pattern doesn't seem to exactly mimic the model on the Colette Patterns site -- the waist and hip don't appear to be that fitted, but the woman has drool-worthy curves.

Alterations: I redrew the neckline to leave out the mini-collar. I wanted a super-versatile dress for summer that would go with everything. Plain denim it was. Luckily, I had it in my stash!

Zipper: Since there is so much ease in the waist and hip, I really only needed a zipper for a few inches in the bodice. A skirt zipper sufficed.

Hem: I wanted a mini-dress length, so I turned in the raw edge 1/4 inch and took a 2-inch hem. I'm 5'3" and I suspect this would be far too much on a taller woman!

Construction: Seamless. It took me awhile because some steps were new to me (rolling the bodice to attach the facing, creating the pockets etc.) but I'd really say this is an easy pattern with a lot of steps. More time than skill intensive.

A close up, showing off those great darts in the bust and those pockets! Love them. The pockets inside and the facing are salmon-colored. A little peek of color.

Love this low back. Didn't have to do a swayback adjustment because the midriff inset is so high.

So glad I made this one of my summer essentials, I'll wear this tons this season and I suspect with some tights I can wear it throughout the year.

Yes, it's a bit plain, but think of all the colorful cardigans and scarves and jewelry I can wear with it! The denim makes it a bit heavy for a summer dress, but the sleeveless-ness and the mid-thigh length make me feel like I've got a substantial dress that won't fly away on me.

Rooibos, the second

This was a little experiment. It actually started when I was fitting the first Rooibos and the size 4 skirt (yet attached to the bodice) dropped to my waist. I thought, This could make a great skirt! The wheels in my head started turning. How could I make many versions of this pattern without it looking like the same exact dress?

As of late, I've been obsessed with having a striped dress. I thought immediately of Shabby Apple's Eiffel Tower dress and Jessica of Green Apples' version of Kwik Sew 3758. Though I love both those dresses, there were things about them that I'd change if possible, the neckline of the Eiffel Tower dress and the tulip-esque skirt of the Kwik Sew pattern, which does nothing for my shape. So why not take a little whack at pattern alteration and see what I come up with?

The vision: A boatneck striped bodice with 3/4 sleeves and a flared A-line skirt with pockets. I used an oversized, thrifted Old Navy top.

And this muumuu someone gave me for free at the swap meet when I was home in Hawaii visiting family. It's a homemade dress, pinked seams and all.

Since I was using knit for the top, I folded in the bodice darts and traced the pattern. Then I cut it above where the darts would be and added 2 inches.

On the skirt, I subtracted two inches. I then folded in the sides to true the pattern. These two changes allowed the midriff inset to fall at my natural waist.

I used the sleeve pattern from Built By Wendy Homestretch's crewneck pattern, lengthening it.

And this is what I came up with:
Sizing: Using my lessons from the first Rooibos, I used a 4 for the bodice and inset (going up a size) with a small bust adjustment and graded down from 4 to 0 for the skirt pieces.

Alterations: Added sleeves, raised the back neckline.

Zipper: None! Thanks to the knit, I can pull this over my head.

Hem: Finished it using bias tape with a 1/4 inch turn.

Construction: The familiar parts went quickly. Figuring out the knit bodice was the hardest part, since it fits more generously in a knit. The sleeves originally fit perfectly and the stripes were all lined up, but the shoulders kept drooping and I wanted it a little tighter. So a gazillion tweaks later, it's better in a lot of ways, worse off in others. For example, there's some pulling in the bodice, but I can live with it.


Close up:
I really like it. I like the stripes, the length, the sweep of the skirt, the pockets, the inset that feels like a belt across my waist. My only major beef is the black fabric. The muumuu seamstress seems to have used broadcloth, which I like for it's crispness, but it's prone to wrinkling and lint and is VERY see-through. I have a little black slip I can wear under the skirt, but I do wish it was nicer quality fabric, since my pattern-alteration experiment turned out to be wearable. :)

Either way -- reusing old garments and items in my stash -- it's quite a treat. And as much as I'm tempted to go out and buy good quality black fabric and re-do what I just did, this light fabric might be just what I need for summer. Besides, the Rooibos pattern isn't going anywhere and I've just started playing with its possibilities!

To the Rooibos!

Do You Test Drive Your "Finished" Objects?

(Shhh! Them seams are unfinished!)

I'm running out the door this morning in my "finished" Colette Patterns Rooibos in denim, one of my summer essentials. I'll post more on the construction process later—I had a number of minor alterations though I absolutely adore this pattern, even moreso now that it's made up. I could have a dozen of these.

From the outside, it's not bad, eh? But a peak inside reveals unraveling denim, unfinished seams, an invsible zipper not properly tacked and a gazillion pieces of thread from the construction process. Really, it's enough to drive a proper seamstress crazy.

So why on earth would I wear it out into the world, especially given the fact that I'm the kind of person who worships the finished object so I can move onto the next project? (Just get 'er done!) Well, I'm finally realizing that there's a few things that only become clear to me while wearing and I sometimes find myself filled with regret knowing I've, say, serged off the edges or cut that hem too short. And sometimes it takes a few wears to figure it all out. But it still feels strange to know that rogue threads could dip below the hem or that zipper tape is going to shimmy out of its place. Eek!

But what about you? Do you ever wear your nearly finished objects out into the world? Or perhaps the better question is: How do you know a project is really finished?

Well, I'm off, folks. Let's see how this dress holds up through six miles of biking and long day at the office :)

The Most Luxurious Thing In My Closet: Bias-cut Silk Slip (Folkwear Intimacies, Lingerie from the 1920s/30s)

In my last post, I mentioned I took a sewing lingerie class. Practically minded, of all the things I thought I would learn to sew, lingerie was at the bottom of the list. But I thought it would be fun to work with delicate fabrics, a way to both push and spoil myself. And, I told myself, I'd been hankering after a slip for light dresses and some sultry bedtime separates for those unbearably hot summer nights when I wish I could move into the freezer.

We were supposed to sew a camisole and panty set, but none of us had time to finish the latter. I traced the slip in Folkwear 219: Intimacies off of one of my classmates, which Folkwear describes as a "treasure chest of lingerie styles from the 1920s and 1930s includes a camisole, tap pants, bias teddy, and slip."

A lovely illustration:
I particularly loved those insets at the bust, it does feel very much from a different time.

Using habotai gold silk and three yards of lace, I made a slip and I'm utterly delighted! It's by far the most luxurious thing I own. The silk is a bit transparent and the sewing's not perfect, but I'm not gonna sweat it.

It's a great pattern, just three pattern pieces in my version. With this project I learned to cut delicate fabrics by placing it between a sort of paper sandwich -- so easy! This is also my first bias cut piece, and I love how it just slinks around the body.

Also, I learned to finish edges with lace. Colette Patterns has a nice tutorial on it here. Here's the scalloped edge of the neckline:

And the lace at the hem:
I did chop off 7 inches from the length—about mid-thigh on me—to be the most versatile. I worry it's a bit too short, but the problem I have with my current slips is that they're too long and too light-colored for my skin tone.

And look! French seams! Also not as hard as I envisioned.

I know this wasn't technically part of my Summer Essentials list, but I'm so pleased to have this in my wardrobe. Definitely one of those projects that gives you energy, opening you up to potential projects you hadn't envisioned before. If I've the time, I'll certainly sew with silk again (so, so lovely), and I am already dreaming of a cami-and-tap pant set. (Wistful.) And now I can sew all those light-colored fabrics into pretty summer dresses!


This has also sent me down the path of obsessing about slips and their usefulness in a modern woman's closet. Do you wear them? What kind of slips do you find most useful for your wardrobe? I'd love to know!

A Video for You Thrifters/Refashioners: Wearing Nothing New

Yesterday at work, I had to slog through a gazillion of tedious but important tasks that had piled up. TED Talks to the rescue! This particular 5-minute talk made me think of the creativity and originality of fellow thrifters. Enjoy!



A few other gems, perhaps to listen to while you're sewing? These are closer to the typical 20 min TED talks.

A rockin' new cultural shift, Rachel Botsman: The case for collaborative consumption

Isaac Mizrahi on fashion and creativity

Intellectual property in fashion. A bit business-y, but fascinating. Johanna Blakley: Lessons from fashion's free culture

Ever wonder if too much choice is a bad thing? Check out Barry Schwartz on the paradox of choice

El Plan: Summer Essentials 2011

Hello! It has been a sewing-binge of a weekend. I'll likely have to slow down with a busy week ahead, but it was great to finish my first summer essential: an ivory blouse with a 50s scoop neckline, based on the first pattern below. Photos soon to come! Made a swayback adjustment and chopped off the sleeves on my sweatshirt dress, and I also had a sewing-geek out party with my gal-pal Jessica and a new friend (bobbins + wine + chocolate!), where I traced out the Colette Rooibos for tissue fitting.

Yesterday I took a lingerie class, where I nearly finished a gold habotai silk lace-trimmed slip using Folkwear 219: Intimacies, based on the lingerie styles of the 1920s and 1930s. It was my first time working with silk, border lace, and french seams. Totally luxurious, perfect as a neutral slip under light colored summer dresses! It may just send me down the path of sewing up pretty underthings, so what better time than now to announce my summer essentials list? Though this may change as the summer goes along, it should serve as a beacon, the things I really want to get to.

You'll see, my focus this summer is on using basic blocks and fabrics in my stash. My color palette from my inspiration board:

The Plan:

TEES, TUNICS & BLOUSES

Bodice Block + Vintage Simplicity 3263: Alter neckline to 50s scoop neckline, add peter pan collar (Version 3)

Fabric:
Black linen, thrifted Eileen Fisher Tunic

This way I get the fit of the bodice block with the look of the vintage pattern using something in my stash. I've already created Version 4 using a thrifted ivory blouse. I assure you, my waist does not look as teeny-weeny as the pattern photo.

---

CLAM DIGGERS & CO.

Trousers/Shorts Block + Simplicity 3580 (Built By Wendy Pattern): Alter block to include slant pockets, front fly and belt loops

Fabric:
Stretch navy denim and/or black canvas, both in stash

Again, this way I get the fit I want with the details I want

---

SWEET & SASSY SKIRTS

As of now non-existent Skirt Block, based on this skirt handmade by my grandmother in the 60s.

I wore this the other day and realized it fit me near perfect. Just the right sweep and length. I'll be making a pattern out it using Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit by Steffani Lincecum.

Fabric:
Black/Purple/White Michael Kors tunic in linen and/or Red twill

I'm excited about this, making patterns from clothes you already know work!

---

THE SUNDRESSES


The Knit Dress

Dress block from Built by Wendy Homestretch, altered to look like the Banana Republic one at left (-ish), v-neck, three tiers, possible a center front seam and belt

Fabric:
Lime green jersey

These are exposed raw edges on the skirt -- does any one know if there's a way to cut jersey so it doesn't curl? Perhaps on the bias?

---

The Mini Dress

Colette Rooibos

Fabric: Dark Denim

Finally! After longing for this pattern, finally making it. Will leave out mini collar. Use of denim inspired by a gorgeous dress from Hetterson.

---

The Full-skirted Dress

Vintage Simplicity 4491 (1960s)

Fabric:
Options! A black/navy rayon dress, thrifted, with a floral border print. Purple Japanese cotton print. Red and white striped shirting-weight fabric.

This pattern is a recent purchase because, like the "blocks" above these are shapes I can foresee using over and over. Fitted blouse with sleeve or sleeveless, full or straight skirt.

---

THOSE SUMMER NIGHTS

Sew Serendipity Jacket, something between the two pictured. Hip-length with buttons, no collar

Fabric:
My mom's old chartreuse tablecloth

This book was a recent gift from a friend. I'll likely finish with Hong Kong seams to keep it lightweight.






Also, inspired by Casey's post on Tilly's blog, I'm trying to stay organized this summer! A spreadsheet of the above projects. I need to fill in my notions and get me to a fabric store.

How's your summer essentials going so far?

Making Patterns from Scratch: Worth it?

My Pattern Project is just a formal way of expressing my interest in drafting and altering patterns. My first skirt was a bust and I'm currently on my third iteration of my self-drafted pants pattern (saved by my tried-and-true BurdaStyle Ruby Shorts pattern). Despite the drafting woes, I love the drafting itself. This is probably largely because there's nothing more in the sewing process I hate than cutting out existing patterns and then fiddling endlessly with fit. Drawing and dreaming of possibility is much more up my alley.

Problem? Even if I draft my own patterns, I'm still fiddling endlessly with fit. So I've been thinking:Is this the best way to for home seamstress to go about either 1) tackling fit and 2) creating basic blocks for a wardrobe?

What I'm realizing is that though I find the drafting process fun, what I really want are great basic patterns I can utilize over and over and the knowledge of how to alter them for incredible variation. I came upon these articles that made me think I'm on right track.

Making Patterns vs. Altering Patterns

From "How We Make Patterns in Real Life"

Drafting a basic fitting shell ("sloper” to home sewers) is just a whole lot of work. In real life, there’s faster ways to get there. Beginners feel as though they have to earn their stripes the hard way, that they have to put a lot of work into drafting a basic fitting shell as tho it were a rite of passage or something. It’s amazing the work they put into it and what for? They still end up with a jizillion iteration cycles. Bummer.

In real life, we don’t draft each design from zero and no, we don’t use home patterns. Nor slopers or fitting shells. We use blocks of existing patterns we’ve made with proven performance.

At Sew-4-Fun, she reflects 10-years-later on her frustrating efforts to learn pattern drafting.

I felt like I was getting nowhere, even though I was learning a lot. It just didn't feel like it because it wasn't helping me to better fit my patterns. That came much later, when I went back to the fitting books. Suddenly things I didn't understand previously, made sense, because I now understood how a pattern was drafted.

What do I do today? I buy commercial patterns and alter them, and have the utmost respect for pattern makers. :) They have years of experience that I simply don't have the time to learn.

IMHO pattern drafting is not a quick fix for fit issues. Yes it will help you in the long run but it's a long journey. Building a pattern from the ground up introduces a new set of issues you have to learn to conquer. It's like taking fifty steps back to move one step forward. In short, if all you want to do is fix your fit issues then learn how to alter an already drafted pattern. Trust me, it's far easier. :)

I'm sold. I may try my hand at pattern drafting from scratch on very simple items or as I get more sophisticated. In the meantime, my focus is on using my books (the Sew U series by Wendy Mullin, Design-It-Yourself Clothes by Cal Patch) to alter patterns and use Fit for Real People to learn to fit them.

Blocks

I have a feeling this is going to be the Summer of the Block. I mentioned that I took a class on creating a basic bodice block and in a few weeks, how to adapt that bodice to make various blouses and dresses. Then I'll take another on creating a trouser block (a bit indulgent, since i sort of have one already, but I wear soooo many pants, that I want the pro-fitting help). According to the teacher, there's these basic blocks:

Woven Bodice Block
Woven Skirt Block
Woven Trouser Block
Knit Bodice Block
Knit Skirt Bodice Block
Knit Legging Block

Without realizing it, I've been working with some blocks and I turn to them again and again. Take the Ruby Shorts pattern, which I first struggled through with Lisette of What Would Nancy Drew Wear?'s sew-along last summer:

Two Rubys, my stand-in "Trouser Block"



As I struggled with fitting on my self-drafted pants pattern, I turned to the Ruby pattern to help with fit. What an amazing thing to have in my arsenal! Version 1 was a bust, Version 2 is a black knit pant that I wear all the time, and Version 3 I just finished, tweaking the pattern slightly. That's four garments from one pattern.




Knit Bodice and Skirt Block

I've also used the Sew U Homestretch dress twice, and dream of it often. With a separate bodice and skirt, I made these two iterations. Version 1 is a sleeveless full-skirted version in a lightweight knit for summer. Version 2 is in a sweatshirt knit with puff sleeves and a slim skirt for fall.




I also use the book's Crewneck pattern as the block for all my t-shirts.

How incredible would it be to have all these basic blocks and to either forgo store-bought patterns altogether (designing!) OR having these "two-dimensional dress forms" as I've heard them called, to compare against each new pattern you try, thereby saving you lots of time with fit?

So that's where I'm at: Rather than drafting from scratch, I'm speeding up to get basic blocks —through classes and existing patterns—and using them again and again.

But what about you? Do you make your own patterns? Why or why not? Or do you have "Blocks" or TNTs that serve you again and again? Do you tend to alter the existing block for the style you want or do you use it as a guide to fit another pattern? I'd love to hear your thoughts!

I've got my first blouse from a bodice block nearly ready to share with you. Til then, happy sewing!