Because my obsessiveness knows no bounds, I thought I'd turn to my fellow Sparkistas & Friends to help me with two questions.
So I made up a muslin of my Summer Spark garment, Jalie 3024, in 100% Cotton knit from a thrifted dress.
- First time I made the version with boatneck/kimono sleeve and I like it! A lot more formal, but I think that's OK, even for a casual summer dress.
- First time I used the serger to stitch a garment together and not just finish edges. I LOVE it. So much faster and there's no pulling at the seams and weirdness I sometimes get sewing knits on my machine.
- This can totally be made in one sitting. Heaven.
- I still got work to do with the sway back / full belly adjustments, but I think I know what to do. More on that in another post.
- I'm clueless about kimono sleeves.
- I'm going cra-azy over which fabric to use.
So I've never really worn kimono sleeves (unless they were long and drapey) and I did take a little tuck in the pattern piece, per my dress form, but there's still this fold on the side of the bust.
To be fair, nearly every version I've seen of this dress has this (including the pattern photo). But should I adjust it? Would it be a small bust adjustment? Something else? The bodice in the final fabric will be stripes, so it'll be lots more noticeable.
But if this is the State of Kimono Sleeves, then I'll just let it be. Any ideas welcome!
Issue Numero Dos: To Bamboo? To Double Knit?
I told you I was having a helluva time finding the perfect stripe at local fabric stores. I finally found one suitable and it was 100% bamboo.
Now I've never sewn with bamboo and from what I can see online, it's a love or hate affair. Either way I'm stuck with it for the small bodice. Enter: The waistband and skirt fabric, which will be black.
Originally, I thought I wanted to have the same fiber content so the dress would look cohesive. I found some 70% bamboo 30% cotton knit.
Pros: Feels beautiful and has lovely drape. It's airy and light (compared to the double knit). Great for summer.
Cons: Too light and drapey? Visible panty line potential? Lightweight fabric ---> pulling seams and unsightliness?
The woman at the store recommended a black double knit, which seems to me is a ponte roma.
Pros: More body, more weight. Likely more versatile in the non-summer months.
Cons: I worry it'll make the dress look more formal (and then I'll be less likely to wear it), and it will be much hotter than the bamboo, though perhaps I'm wrong.
Would you use the bamboo/cotton (left)? Double knit (right)? Buy more fabric?
I'm used to cutting apart thrifted dresses/remnants and so this new fabric feels precious. Any thoughts to help me make a decision is much appreciated!
Whew! Hopefully I can make my pattern adjustments, pre-wash and cut this weekend!