Because my obsessiveness knows no bounds, I thought I'd turn to my fellow Sparkistas & Friends to help me with two questions.
So I made up a muslin of my Summer Spark garment, Jalie 3024, in 100% Cotton knit from a thrifted dress.
Good news:
- First time I made the version with boatneck/kimono sleeve and I like it! A lot more formal, but I think that's OK, even for a casual summer dress.
- First time I used the serger to stitch a garment together and not just finish edges. I LOVE it. So much faster and there's no pulling at the seams and weirdness I sometimes get sewing knits on my machine.
- This can totally be made in one sitting. Heaven.
- I still got work to do with the sway back / full belly adjustments, but I think I know what to do. More on that in another post.
- I'm clueless about kimono sleeves.
- I'm going cra-azy over which fabric to use.
So I've never really worn kimono sleeves (unless they were long and drapey) and I did take a little tuck in the pattern piece, per my dress form, but there's still this fold on the side of the bust.
To be fair, nearly every version I've seen of this dress has this (including the pattern photo). But should I adjust it? Would it be a small bust adjustment? Something else? The bodice in the final fabric will be stripes, so it'll be lots more noticeable.
But if this is the State of Kimono Sleeves, then I'll just let it be. Any ideas welcome!
Issue Numero Dos: To Bamboo? To Double Knit?
I told you I was having a helluva time finding the perfect stripe at local fabric stores. I finally found one suitable and it was 100% bamboo.
Now I've never sewn with bamboo and from what I can see online, it's a love or hate affair. Either way I'm stuck with it for the small bodice. Enter: The waistband and skirt fabric, which will be black.
Originally, I thought I wanted to have the same fiber content so the dress would look cohesive. I found some 70% bamboo 30% cotton knit.
Pros: Feels beautiful and has lovely drape. It's airy and light (compared to the double knit). Great for summer.
Cons: Too light and drapey? Visible panty line potential? Lightweight fabric ---> pulling seams and unsightliness?
The woman at the store recommended a black double knit, which seems to me is a ponte roma.
Pros: More body, more weight. Likely more versatile in the non-summer months.
Cons: I worry it'll make the dress look more formal (and then I'll be less likely to wear it), and it will be much hotter than the bamboo, though perhaps I'm wrong.
Would you use the bamboo/cotton (left)? Double knit (right)? Buy more fabric?
I'm used to cutting apart thrifted dresses/remnants and so this new fabric feels precious. Any thoughts to help me make a decision is much appreciated!
Whew! Hopefully I can make my pattern adjustments, pre-wash and cut this weekend!
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What does the bamboo fabric do if you place two layers together? Would it be possible to do a double layered skirt in the bamboo, or would it just stick together and cause static issues?
ReplyDeleteGood question. I honestly don't know, but I don't have enough for two layers :(
DeleteI have a sleeveless dress that I made last summer in a heavy black double knit and it's still ok to wear on the hottest summer days (90 to 95 F) I like the doubleknit- I made a bamboo jersey dress and it was too thin on the bottom half, it's now a nighty.
ReplyDeleteJill
Thanks, that's really great to know!
DeleteThe bamboo might need leggings underneath, which perhaps defeats the purpose! But it would be wonderfully cool and swishy!
ReplyDeleteI'm afraid I have absolutely no idea how to help, no advice whatsoever (useless I know). I just wanted to offer some blind encouragement, hope that you won't end up with VPL (although if you do, try wearing shorts instead) and to say that I'm very much looking forward to your finished item which I'm sure will look fabulous x
ReplyDeleteDrapey often equals clingy. Have you already bought the fabric? I reread twice and still couldn't figure that out. :) If you have, the best way to determine drape and cling is to shuck the pants, pin the fabric around your waist and take a stroll around the house. Pin it with the bulk of the fabric in the front or to one side. You're trying to get a feel on how it clings to the...er...fanny side and if there's VPL.
ReplyDeleteFor a close-fitting skirt I'd ben inclined towards the doubleknit (although I like V's suggestions). I think the muslin looks great! Some folding under the arm is pretty much par for the course with kimono sleeves, I think. You could try taking it in under the arm, but I don't really think it's a problem. Certainly no one but you is going to notice anything. :)
ReplyDeleteI've double-layered knits before, and it works great if they're slippery or semi-stable, but soft, drapey ones tend to stick to each other if they're not slippery.
It looks great---I love this pattern. :)
Can't help you with the kimono sleeves, as SBA is not something I really need to mess with! I love bamboo fabric, personally--it's very breathable, which is great for the very humid-in-the-summer climate that I live in. I did make a dress out of a bamboo jersey somewhat recently, and the drape is lovely. I have noticed that I need to be careful what undergarments I wear under it, though, and that skirt isn't really clingy. So you may want to consider the double-knit.
ReplyDeletethe bamboo sounds lovely, though the VPL is always an issue, do you have anywhere near you that sells stretchy lining fabric, you could just add a skirt lining.
ReplyDeleteMy kimono sleeves always do that. No idea if they are meant to, though I'm not sure how you could make them so they didn't.
I wouldn't worry too much about the kimono sleeve. I think to make them fit like a set in sleeve there has to be a gusset, but don't quote me on that. I vote for the double knit as long as it's a cotton double knit. If it has polyester in it, forget it. It will be super duper hot. I have a dress I made from a cotton double knit and it's one of my favorite things to wear, even in the middle of the summer.
ReplyDeleteI looked at Jalie's website and even the model seems to have the same underarm issue as you
ReplyDeletehttp://www.jalie.com/catalog/product/gallery/id/116/image/311/
I even looked back at the cap sleeve tee I made and the same issue is there
http://bombardone.com/sewingprincess/2011/10/easy-cap-sleeve-tee-and-pattern-giveaway/
I am starting to think it's a design feature (not a bug) :o)
However if you wanted to take it in you simply need to sew along the underarm seam.
I think double knit should be ok. I made a skirt and it's not too clingy. Looking forward to version 2.
I love the idea of the "swingy" skirt and echo the idea of a lightweight lining or underlining for the garment.
ReplyDeletehello!! Very interesting discussion glad that I came across such informative post. Keep up the good work friend. Glad to be part of your net community.internet
ReplyDelete