the wardrobe, reimagined

Fashion on the Ration: A Year of Lessons

2012-01-29T10:48:00.000-08:00

Last week marked the end of my Fashion on the Ration challenge, one year of living on the 1941 clothing ration in the UK, inspired by blogger Susannah of Cargo Cult Craft. I had 66 “coupons” to spend on new garments and had to thrift, sew or mend my way through the rest of the year.

Over the past year, there have been days I wished for the end. I dreamt of yards of silk, cashmere cardigans, even fast fashion. I desired reckless consumption, a way to itch the scratch of my newest obsessions (Blouses! Tiered skirts! Red shoes!). A lifetime of longing for stuff, bubbling up in my daily life.

Then late January rolled around and I barely noticed I was free from my self-imposed restriction. See, a year of going sparingly has taught me, well, to go sparingly. I was always aware that this challenge was a concoction, that no one would care if I succeeded or failed. In fact, the entire retail industry was set up to cushion me if I fell off the wagon.

And still, the change that occurred was personal: the way I view clothes, how they’re made, and the space they inhabit in my life. See Susannah’s excellent end-of-challenge post here.

Coupon Tally

So how did I do? I spent 52.5 coupons, with 13.5 left. Since this limited my new purchases, they really had to matter. (Coupon prices, if you're curious.)

6.25 yards of fabric
1 cardigan, gray
1 blouse, black and white
2 scarves
2 pairs: 1 pair black flats, 1 pair black riding boots
2 nude bras
1 pair gray sweater tights
3 knee-high socks

But did they really matter? Yes and no. I'd say only half of them are used. Best purchases: Nude bras and good quality black flats. I wear them both constantly.

Challenges

There were times, especially during the summer, when I felt this challenge invited me into a different type of consumption. Sure, I wasn’t buying new things, but I was sewing and thrifting like a maniac.

Under the ration, second-hand clothes were allowed under a certain threshold. Susannah adds that “clothing is so incredibly cheap compared to clothing in the 1940s that you could easily stock a modern wardrobe with new clothing that didn’t exceed these price limits.” For those interested in changing garment prices, see the wonderful article, “The History of a Cheap Dress.”

Susannah was exactly right. Looking at the thresholds in today’s dollars, this would be no challenge at all. So as a goal, I aimed to only buy thrifted clothes that were 1/4 of the 1941 threshold (rounded). Both dollar amounts are listed below.

Common garments, price ($) threshold for second-hand
Winter coat 45 | 11
Jacket, blazer, short coat 20 | 5
Dress, wool 41 | 10
Dress, non-wool 26 | 7
Cardigan 20 | 5
Blouses, tees 15 | 4
Skirt 15 | 4
Slacks 19 | 5
Shorts 11 | 3
Pair of boots, shoes 15 | 4

Even with this restriction, I managed to buy A LOT of thrifted clothes that were less than the second number. It just goes to show you how much excess clothing is out there and how cheap you can get it. I only exceeded this goal three times: A vintage mod coat in rust ($14), a Michael Kors shift dress ($11) and a pair of Beautifeel nude t-straps ($7).

Thrifting, like the obsessive sewing, seemed to fulfill a need that was most pronounced after a death of a loved one. I just wanted to buy stuff. I wanted the new-to-me-ness. In hindsight, sewing or going to thrift shops was a way to channel my nervous energy from other stressors or distract me from grief. And of all the self-indulgent behaviors that I could’ve indulged in during such a tough time, I’m not going to begrudge myself this crutch.

But now in the new year, with a bit of healing behind me, I want to slow down. Less sewing, less shopping, more everything else. I have to remind myself that time is what I really value, not stuff.

Successes

Revisiting my intentions a year ago, I listed three main reasons why I wanted to embark on the challenge: I wanted to allow myself to buy more quality items, to explore personal style and to have some measure of financial accountability of my purchases. On all accounts—save what I mentioned above—I’d say I did well.

The thing that made the biggest difference, though, was having to constantly ask myself:

Do I really need this?
Will this serve me?
If I get this, am I willing to pass on some future desire (since the coupons/money have been spent)?

This made me frequently put things back on the rack.

I also purged my closet regularly, increasingly wanting less, wanting to have only things I actually wear. This became particularly important with all the thrifting and sewing. Each purge made the next easier. I gave things to friends, sold them to consignment, donated them. Amazing how I don’t miss things once they’re gone, and how better I feel to have clothing in colors and silhouettes I adore.

And finally, I attained a lot of new skills. I took numerous pattern drafting classes, learned to copy ready-to-wear and knit. All of these things are so empowering. It’s sort of mind-boggling to think that I could make everything on my body except for shoes.

What’s next?

In Ali-fashion, I want to hurl myself into another challenge, but it’s probably best I just pause here and enjoy my lessons.

In fact, as my habits changed (as imposed by the challenge), these lessons on having and wasting less bled into the rest of my life. Today, I commute to work by bike, compost, and subscribe to a local farm. I’ve installed water- and heat-saving devices in my home and have started to wash my clothes by hand (mostly because I can’t be bothered to schlep to the laundromat). I made draft snakes for my windows out of scraps and produce bags out of an old curtain. I relish fresh beans from my pressure cooker and books on my e-reader. I long for a little plot to grow things in.

So, the challenge is over and I’m not going to run out and buy stuff. Instead, it’s a beautiful day in Oakland. I might wake the boy, make a quiche, and whip up the Victory Patterns’ Lola dress with my sister-in-law later. Maybe I’ll walk on the marina and dream of adventures-to-come.

Happy sewing and happy Sunday, all.

Xo

Sewaholic Renfrew: Must Have for Knit Lovers

2012-01-24T09:43:00.000-08:00

It's no secret that I dig Tasia of Sewaholic's style. It's also no secret that I love sewing and wearing knits -- they're by far the most reached-for items in my wardrobe. Put the two together and you've got Tasia's latest pattern, a stylish take on comfort: The Renfrew pattern.

The pattern (announced here) is a stable knit top with three neckline options—a V-neck, a scoop neck, or a cowl neck—and three sleeve lengths.

I was thrilled to be one of Tasia's pattern testers. Even though her line serves pear-shaped women, this pattern is equally useful for rectangular gals, too (the waist definition offers some shape!). The sleeves and hem are cleanly finished with bands and you don't need a serger.

Really, this is a pattern that keeps on giving. The options seems to be endless. I made all three versions because I was excited about the neckline variety. This is my favorite:

Using a thrifted dress in a stable, heather blue polyester knit, I cut up a version with long sleeves and a cowl neck, shortening the length for my petite frame. I love that sporty look (partly inspired by Twinkle Sews Take Manhattan tunic) and I ended up adding a cord to the front of the tunic, like a hooded sweatshirt. I also used the wrong side of the fabric for the cowl, hem and cuffs to add contrast.

I wear this all the time. This was me going to pick up our box of veggies at the market on Saturday. Sometimes I doze off in it, it's so comfortable.

This was my first version, in stripe. This had a lot more stretch than the one above and I wish the fabric had more weight. The v-neck is a bit off, but v-necks are always tricky and Tasia's version is one of the best I've seen.

Lesson learned: Follow the suggested fabric suggestions! Stable knits don't have much stretch and they're a dream to sew with -- they seem to be the perfect combo of the ease of sewing with wovens with the comfort of knits.

Think of the options. You could make nine different tops, but you could also use contrast bands and hem for a totally different look. You could also lengthen each of these into dresses, with or without the hem band. A lovely cowl neck dress with three quarter sleeves for the office? A short-sleeve v-neck dress for summer? Lots of long sleeves to get you through winter?

Highly recommended. Pre-sale for the Renfrew available to Sewaholic newsletter subscribers. You can subscribe here.

Happy sewing!! And thanks to all your thoughts on dress forms. You'll meet her soon :)

Dress Forms: Worthwhile investment?

2012-01-15T17:55:00.000-08:00

Hello, all! I'm back in my digs and have to catch up on my blog reading. But over the last days I've been obsessing about dress forms and was hoping for some experienced advice.

After an unhelpful duct-tape double, I dismissed dress forms altogether. Besides, I wasn't quite sure how a dress form would deal with my particular body shape, namely: Small bust, sway back, narrow hips, high waist etc.

But I'm beginning to think that having a three-dimensional form may do wonders in my sewing (even if it doesn't reflect my body exactly), to be an aid for basic pinning and fitting and hemming and time out.

What do you think? If you have a dress form, do you love it? How do you use it in your sewing? Or could you live without it?

I also wonder if it makes a huge difference to have an adjustable form or something I can customize to my body.

Thanks for any tips!

:)

Wanting Less but Making More?

2012-01-11T09:07:00.000-08:00

There’s nothing like the new year to discuss resolutions or plans for the coming year. Though my head is filled with things I could make in the coming year (Dressses! Knitted accessories! Pants!) I’m hitting a mental snag: Do I really need more?

Source

My Fashion on the Ration challenge is wrapping up soon and so my shopping and fabric buying, after a year of restraint, will be wide open to every whim and desire. In this past year, my reading has lead me to subjects like wartime rations, personal style, wardrobe planning, production and distribution of goods, zero-waste lifestyles and minimalism. And while I tend to be a moderate about everything, I am starting to really believe that I can do more with less.

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Take this trip home. I packed 10 garments for 18 days, and 3 are barely worn. Granted, there’s no inclement weather, but there’s also no hemming and hawing over what to wear in the morning. No physical or mental clutter, clothing-wise. A wardrobe that’s streamlined and, most of all, me. It feels great.

Juxtapose that to two crafts—sewing and now knitting—that are activities of creation. Whether or not I’m recycling materials, I’m still creating something new-to-me, which will live in my closet and my home. Let’s not even get into my thrifting habits.

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Here’s the thing: I really, really like making stuff. I really like the creativity and problem solving that comes with manipulating fabric; the tactile sensation of making, virtually absent from the rest of my life. And though I began sewing with the focus on the products of my labor, crafting has fulfilled an important need for me. It’s aided my sanity, channeling my oft-frazzled energy in a positive way.

So how do I balance wanting less with making more? I’m pretty good at culling my closet regularly, but I still seem to be adding just as much into the closet as I’m taking out. Here’s a few things I’ve been thinking about:

I could make stuff for others. If I had kids, this would be a no-brainer. I started to make items for my sisters and nieces last year, but it made up a small percentage of total makes for 2011. And, to be honest, I love the experimenting I get to do with my wardrobe when I make and thrift stuff for myself.

I could knit more. Knitting has been such a blessing these past months. It’s forced me to slow down and be more social, since I can more easily knit with my family rather than running around half-naked with an iron in hand while sewing. And what I love the most: Little’s lost in knitting. I was just knitting a top-down sweater and decided, just as I was about to separate the sleeves, that I didn’t like it. I put it aside, knowing I could always pick it up later. Now I’m working on a project I’m excited about.

I could make less. Reviewing my 2011 makes, I had far more successes in the latter half of the year when I took on big projects that took longer, like pants and jackets. Speed, which I love, makes me sloppy. And the slower I accrue items, I noticed, the more likely I am to use them. Each item gets to be the shining star for a bit and find a permanent place in the wardrobe.

I could buy less fabric and fewer patterns. Sewing gives you so many options, but I find too many choices can be daunting and overwhelming. Well-made plans often get tossed for shiny, new things.

I could make muslins. Better fit, slower construction.

I could sew with others. I had such a good time this year sewing with friends and family, and if I prioritized that time to sew rather than letting it infiltrate the rest of my life, it would be time well-spent. People I care about and a craft I love.

I could participate in a wardrobe challenge like Project 333 or the 30-for-30 Remix to get a handle on what really gets worn.

What about you? Do you think you could do more with less? What strategies do you have to strike that balance?

Jalie 3024 = Love

2012-01-08T14:44:00.000-08:00

My last make of 2011: Jalie 3024. I've been eyeing this pattern awhile, partly because I've been wanting to try a Jalie pattern and partly because I've been looking for a knit dress pattern with options, since I think it's pretty much the perfect garment—comfy, stylish, quick to make, easy to pack and easy to launder.

This pattern is described as a fitted empire-waist knit dress with waist inset and choice of 3 upper bodices/necklines: boatneck with short kimono sleeve, sleeveless crossover neckline with visible binding, and sleeveless scoopneck with visible binding. A flounce can also be sewn to the hem.

Though they say a Little Black Dress can be a gal's perfect wardrobe companion, I've been thinking about an appropriate equivalent for me. Black is too formal for most occasions, most of my environments are casual and I wanted something I could wear in all seasons. Here in Hawaii, through the sun and rain, and bundled up on the mainland with tights and scarves and things. So I whipped this up with 1-1/4yards of a navy terry for versatility, though I've got more fun options planned for spring (purple with flounce! boatneck stripes!).

It came together in one sitting. Love the clean, visible binding. And I've worn it lots!

To work: Jumper, scarf, tights and brogues.

To work: Cardigan, cowl, tights and boots.

Around the house: Hoodie and house slippers. This is about what I'm wearing as I type this, except I'm wearing flip flops.

To Christmas dinner: Cardigan, cowl, beret, tights and mary janes.

Love this pattern, highly recommended. A note to more curvy gals, though: The pattern is identical front and back—perfect for my rectangular shape but may be problematic on others.

Happy sewing!

Data Geek's Year-in-Review, 2011

2012-01-02T00:46:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year!!!!! I'm writing to you from my favorite island. I'm home for a bit and my internets is abysmal, so please understand why my 2011 roundup is arriving in 2012.

I'm not going to lie: 2011 was an awful year, punctuated by heartache, stress and loss. But terrible times had a sneaky way of prioritizing and clarifying everything else in my life. My biggest take-away is that time is my most valuable asset and I want to spend it wisely. Everything worth having is worth working for, and that includes working to have the time to spend with the people I love (as I am now), making the meals that bring us together, and the objects that equip me in my life (pretty clothes included!).

The project I'm most proud of: A copy of my favorite GAP jeans.

Sewing became my salve this year. Inspired by another blogger, I began my Fashion on the Ration challenge (340 days down, 25 to go!). I participated in Zoe's Me-Made-June, joined forces with Sarah and Alessa for the 2nd Summer Essentials Sew-Along and the 1st Fall Essentials Sew-Along, and dipped my toe into the inspiring Colette Patterns Fall Palette Challenge. I even started taking some pattern-drafting classes, but overall, I've been awful about tracking my progress and participating in the blogosphere as much as I wanted.

Biggest disappointment: The UP Dress

I learned many lessons this year, but one post that changed my habits was "The 80/20 Rule: Examining My Wardrobe." I frequently have to collect and analyze data for work and applying the same analysis to my wardrobe made me look at it more objectively. Since then, I've been spending way too much time thinking about the items I really want to either buy, sew or knit and donating everything else.

So why not apply the same analysis to my 2011 makes?

I made a little bit of everything this year. 30 items total, 5 which I made for others.

But these weren't all great makes. You can see my pants projects had a 50/50 chance of success and all the blouses were doozies (a hard way to figure out I don't like blouses unless they're button-up shirts, which are on the docket for 2012). Most of my tops were stable knits, my favorite to wear and hard to screw up. The jackets aren't perfect, but nice and wearable.

Most surprisingly, I'm not upset about the failures. One of the things I've realized is that I actually prefer the process over the product. Nevertheless, it's worth learning from the experience. In almost all instances of project successes, I was working with a great pattern.

The failures, though, can largely be chalked up to poor fabric choice. I source 90% of my fabric secondhand, and it thrills me to no end to reuse material in a creative way, but I suspect I'm often using the wrong fabric for the project.

To bring into 2012: Reuse successful patterns and buy fabric if I don't have the appropriate fabric in my stash.

My biggest epiphany, however, was learning to copy ready-to-wear. Now, all clothes are patterns to me and I can start with fit and work backwards. It's magical.

Patterns of Note
Sewaholic Pendrell

Colette Rooibos

Colette Clover

Simplicity 2209 - Lisette Passport Dress

Simplicity 3692 - Built By Wendy Knit Top

Simplicity 2211 - Lisette Market Skirt

Built By Wendy Coats and Jackets Book

Jalie 3024 - Last FO of 2011, will blog soon!

Folkwear Intimacies 219

Vintage

McCalls 3511

Rub-Off Method/Self-Drafted

Rub-Off Jeans (linked above)

Rub-off Blazer

Red Ridiculous Skirt

Whew! That's it, folks. I hope you had beautiful holidays. Here's to an amazing, creative and handmade 2012!

Santa, puh-lease? Victory Patterns Love

2011-12-23T11:18:00.000-08:00

Dear Santa,

I've been good this year. Pinky-promise. I've been ~~buying too many clothes at thrift shops~~ donating to charity and making things for ~~myself, and on rare occasion,~~ others.

As you're making your list and checking it twice, I hope that you'll discover my name there next to three new patterns from a brand-new independent pattern line, Canada-based Victory Patterns. (Who doesn't love the Canadians?)

I discovered Victory Patterns through my blog-pal, Toria. (She kindly requests the Madeleine. You might want to bring something for her dog, too.)

See, while I'm staying home—out of trouble—I could really use a comfy, stylish number like the Lola:

Lola, Victory Patterns

And once Spring comes and it's time to get a little leggy (modestly, of course), what fits the bill better than the Chloe? (Note the pockets on both of these, Santa: A cure for chilly fingers.)

Chloe, Victory Patterns

Most importantly, I want you to know that I'm the kind of gal who believes in the capacity for human beings to do great things, realize their potential. Because of that, I'm always aiming higher than my ability, seeing what I'm made of. And this pattern, dear Santa, could be my Mount Everest in the Spring.

The Anouk features front and back pintucks, fitted yoke, and button detailing leading into a decorative front placket.

Anouk, Victory Patterns

I realize this is a last-minute request, so if the elves are swamped and you're forced to stoop to using cash, I just wanted you to know that Victory Patterns is offering 3 patterns for $25 in their Etsy store.

Thank you, Santa, for considering my plea. And, it's not a bribe, but I want you to know there are homemade cookies that I ~~didn't make but~~ am happy to share with you and some almond milk (I'm lactose intolerant, my bad).

Merry, merry Christmas to you and the Mrs.

Love, a very, very, very nice girl,
Ali

Snoody

2011-12-21T22:44:00.000-08:00

I've been knitting! In the past month, I've made two cowls/snoods and I love them both. In fact, I may just pack away the rest of my scarves for the season.

These are both very popular patterns on Ravelry at the moment. The first is the Gaptastic Cowl, but I only cast on 107 stitches and it's 7 or so inches wide. I used two skeins of Malabrigo Gruesa in Polygala and I can't tell you how much this color excites me. I've been wearing this a lot and have received so many compliments. It's really inspired me to be impulsive: if I have sweaty-hand love for it in the store, I may love wearing it regularly, and I do!

The second is more typical Ali: neutral color, made for usefulness. I took an old cotton GAP sweater and unraveled it, which, to me, is sort of a magical thing. A whole sleeve in a single piece of yarn!

I wasn't going to go through the mind-numbing seed stitch again, so I opted for the Honey Cowl with Gap-tastic dimensions. I held two strands together, cast on 130 stitches, and knit for about 11 inches. I love how soft and drapey this is and, since it's cotton, there's the possibility that I may wear it thoughout the year.

So there you have it: One colorful snood to punch up the plain, neutral outfits I live in, and one neutral to pair with everything else. They're far from perfect—still working on not twisting stitches. The Gaptastic Cowl has two twists and the Honey Cowl one twist, but I'm gonna chalk it up to my learning curve.

There are so many things I want to knit. A beret, wool socks, fingerless gloves, and (eek) a sweater? Oh, I heart being a beginner: Everything seems possible.

Hope you're all well. There's a dress on the cutting table -- more on that soon!

Bad Beignet

2011-12-16T07:23:00.000-08:00

Hello, hello! The countdown to the holidays has arrived and everything feels like it's accelerating before it slows down.

Earlier this week, I had the great pleasure to attend the BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook launch in San Francisco. I've got some funny photos to share with you, but read Amy of Sew Well's great post about it here. I'm smitten with the book, I love patterns that just keep giving and that's the focus: pattern alteration. Watch out for the skirt in the spring!

Speaking of skirts, I noticed some great wrap-ups of the Fall Essentials Sew-Along and the Colette Patterns Fall Palette Challenge. I never whipped up an official list, but now that we're on the verge of winter, I should share with you my most recent garment which is, unfortunately, a fail.

Rewind two years. The Colette Beignet pattern was one of the first I bought. Being a newbie, I cut up a vintage skirt and made this sorta-Beignet below.

2010

It wasn't awful given my skill set at the time. The buttonholes were a major accomplishment. But I recall tweaking it A LOT (this is just one incarnation) and the inside was just awful. Plus, I don't really like pink. So I stashed the pattern away.

But you, crafty ladies, kept tormenting me with lovely Beignets. Solvi and Scruffbadger come to mind. Curvy, vintage-esque awesomeness. And I've got a soft spot for any skirt made by Tasia, that Sewaholic whose style I can't quite emulate but love love.

I liked this Beignet because it seemed like it could easily go from day-to-night. A go-to Fall Skirt that would shepherd me warmly into Spring. I picked up some gray-ish loosely woven wool from the thrift store and spent way too much on pretty buttons. Mustard lining. I chopped off 1-3/4 off the top because of my obsessiveness with not-too-high waists.

And here it is:

So the lining, fit at the waist and pockets are great, but really MEH otherwise. That's actually the best photo. Here's what it looks like most of the time:

Baggy and pulling and just overall unflattering. I've been messing with the buttons to no avail. I've concluded 1) the Beignet is probably not for me. All that curviness, I ain't got it. And 2) Fit issues aside, this is really a fabric problem. The loosely woven wool is too light for the weight of the buttons.

I could try to whip this skirt into submission, taking in the panels (perhaps sacrificing the pockets) for a more flattering fit at the hip area. I could remove the button panel and replace it with a plain one, similar to my Sunday Morning Skirt.

But I'm feeling today that life is short, so back in the back, back closet it goes. Perhaps I'll find the motivation after the holidays.

In the meantime I've been daydreaming, using my croqui.

This has inspired me to finally buy a pattern I've been longing for, Jalie 3024: Knit Dresses. Perhaps I can move on from the Bad Beignet and whip up one more garment before the first day on winter, end on a success.

Here's to you, in all the sewing successes and failures this fall, and to slowing down over the holidays. I've been enjoying things line by line—curled up reading novels and knitting—and dreaming of stretchy things and woolen things and food and laughter.

xoxo A

Possibly My Favorite Skirt Pattern: McCalls 3511, 1973

2011-12-06T09:00:00.000-08:00

Thank you all for your comments on my last post, "Jerks and Skirts"! You all are amazing, amazing. I took all of your comments to heart. I've certainly internalized what's been happening around me, and you all were able to give me some important perspective.

So you don't think it's all gloom-and-doom and pants-wearing around these parts, I have been thinking a lot about skirts. I was convinced that my skirt-wearing could finally come front-and-center with the season change. I could layer up with tights and leggings (and feel comfortable on my daily commute, baby steps!) and I got my first pair of riding boots that'll pair beautifully with skirts once the rain begins.

In particular, since examining my wardrobe and considering my body type, I've been thinking about what types of skirts I'd be most likely to wear regularly. I've come to these conclusions:

Fabric/color: With wovens, dark denim is my neutral. Dark gray for more formal situations. With knits, it's black and gray.
Waist: My waist is too dang high for me not to feel overwhelmed in high-waist or natural waist skirts. It's a high-hip skirt for me. This also means I need tops that hit there, untucked.
Length: Mid-knee for formal, just above the knee for day-to-night, 3-4 inches above the knee for casual.
Fit/Silhouette: Fitted through the hip, slight A-line.

Sometimes I think it's good to give ourselves parameters, what to you think? It allows me to focus and increases my chances of success. So one Sunday morning in early November, I was lying in bed, thinking about going to the thrift store to find a denim skirt with the above characteristics, but instead I got up and pulled out this 1973 pattern instead and cut up some leftover denim from my Rooibos.

Carefree Pattern? You bet it is. Four pattern pieces, a zipper and a piece of ribbon. It whipped up so fast I wore it to lunch that day.

And to work that week.

I originally sewed it as instructed but the high waist was bothering me so I let out the front and back darts and it now falls at high-hip. I wore it to the marina on the weekend.

And again to work yesterday!

And several other times. Seriously, my Sunday Morning Skirt has received more consistent love in the last month than any skirt in the history of my wardrobe. And I think it's because I thought hard about what works for me.

Now that I have a foundation skirt I love, I can expand. As a six-gore skirt, think of the options. I could add patch pockets or pockets a la Rooibos on the front side panels. A waistband or a waistband with pockets a la Clover. I've got an equally stiff red corduroy I'd love to try it with and a drapey black crepe that would totally change the shape. I could add godets! I could make it a mini! Oh, bless you, McCalls 3511.

One lesson I've learned in hindsight is that sewing can be a really frustrating way to discover flattering silhouettes (so says all my unworn FOs). I've seen so many items on others that I just love love but on me just look blah (you make it look so easy, curvy ladies!). I've got a meh skirt in the blog queue to prove it.

I'm beginning to think it's much easier to find a basic silhouette that suits you and build from there, as I did with my favorite jeans and hopefully with my Sunday Morning Skirt.

What do you think? How do you go about finding silhouettes that work for you?

Jerks and Skirts

2011-12-01T21:07:00.001-08:00

Source

With the recent daylight savings time change, it was dark when I left the office and I bundled up in a long coat and stuffed all my hair in my hat. I had been looking forward to coming home and blogging about one ofthe three new wardrobe items I have yet to share with you.

But a group of men got to me first.

First they called me names, fake intimacies, referring to my gender, my body. They lured me to engage, acting as if I’d dropped something. I could have; it was that kind of day and I didn’t have my glasses nor anything on me I could afford to lose. They wanted me to linger and they laughed and watched me twirl around myself: a show for themselves, a game they played. I was the prop.

When I realized what was happening, I called them names. They laughed. I boarded my train.

I felt frazzled but mostly angry. What gave those men the right to screw with me, a random woman? And how was that fair, with five of them and one of me? And why, because I’m a woman, should I be susceptible to such things? And though they struck me as harmless, young men with not enough to do (no, I don't want no scrubs), a teeny part of me was screaming alarm. I was scared because I was vulnerable: Alone, on a dark street, surrounded.

Looking back on it, calmer, I was likely over-reacting. I was in no immediate danger: There was a crowd around the corner and the boy was on the line in the phone in my hand. And I’m no stranger to these stupid cat-calls and heckling that is the sad reality of being a woman. Whistles and inappropriate comments from moving cars are easy to brush off.

But in this new city of mine, for whatever reason, these men want to engage, want me to talk back, and sometimes they get too physically close for comfort and I have to tell them to back off. One of my friends long had to endure a man, yelling at the top of his lungs as she walked by, “I want me some of that p&^%$y!” Over and over. Every. Single. Day.

Source

Don’t get me wrong: I love my city. I’ve just had it with a particular variety of men within it. They heckle me when I’m on my bike—either laughing at me or evaluating me. The first is annoying and the second uncomfortable. And perhaps I was so rattled by the group of men around me tonight because I didn’t have my two-wheeled getaway.

But this is my larger point and embarrassing confession: It has changed the way I dress. With riff-raff hanging out on street corners, I’m not going to wear a skirt or dress that shimmies up to my hips as I’m biking, so that they can mess with me when I stop at intersections. I wore pants nearly all summer.

Yes, I live in a city, but I’ve never felt more vulnerable than when walking in the wintery New England woods. So city or country, I’ve just chalked this up to stupid behavior sparked by my gender. And it’s damned unfair.

I know there’s a big emphasis in the blogosphere about dressing for yourself, owning your style, and having the confidence no matter the environment. And I know changing the way you dress because of this sort of discomfort can be seen as negotiating with terrorists, especially since I’m likely not in any real danger. I mean, who gave them the power to dictate what I put on in the morning? But the truth is, I simply don’t want to deal with it.

I’m admitting this now because I’m of two minds about it. Part of me feels I should dress in the way that makes me feel comfortable throughout my day, including dealing with these bozos during my commute. Sewing is clearly important to me, but feeling safe is paramount. Another part of me feels I should dress solely for myself and harden myself to any comments that flashes of femininity inspires.

Many of us embrace our femininity through the clothes we make and wear. I’d love your thoughts on this. Do you have to deal with this where you live? Does your environment change the way you dress?

So ... This is My Body

2011-11-28T13:13:00.000-08:00

Thick- and short-waisted, slim-hipped, long-crotched, square-jawed, and small-breasted, not to mention the uneven shoulders and hips, presumably from my slight scoliosis.

Yep, this is the body I was given and this is as good as its going to get.

I made these sketches after being inspired by the directions in the Colette Sewing Handbook to make your own croqui. I took photos of myself in a tank and leggings and traced my outline in Photoshop. I also made a version that included my bust line, waist line, high and low hip, and knee line to guide me in tracing.

And holy cannoli, I should’ve done this eons ago. One of the things that has been most enlightening to me about sewing is how well you need to know your body in order to fit it. But even more generally, you need to view it objectively so you can understand whether the clothes you covet will look the way you imagine. And what better way to view yourself than to have an objective flat image of your body, with all its intricacies, before you invest time and money in a new project?

For example, this image would’ve cured me of my sway back denial that held its hold for several months.

And as an exercise, I traced two croquis and then traced two different 1960s patterns I love.

What’s most obvious about the one on the left is that I absolutely do not have that slim little waist in the pattern image, so it’s not going to look like that on me. The sleeves (which I wasn’t planning on) are probably a good idea as they make me look more balanced. Not a terrible look, reminiscent of Glee’s Rachel Berry, if that’s what I’m going for.

The image on the right, however, shows me that my rectangular-shaped body doesn’t change the shape so much. And the v-neck doesn’t widen my square jaw.

I have already cut the Colette Patterns Beignet. This is what it would look like on me, styled with a boatneck sweater and boots.

Considering this Kwik Sew pattern.

And I’ve been hemming and hawing over what skirts look best of my frame so I drew several: straight, a-line, mini, princess-seamed, godets.

Straight skirts definitely don’t do much for me. And because my waist is so, so high it’s no wonder I hate wearing skirts at my natural waist as it envelopes my frame. Here I drew the skirts/tops as I would realistically wear them, with an untucked high-hip length top.

This has been a fun exercise and I’m sure it will serve me as I try new silhouettes. Have you ever made a croqui? If so, how do you use it?

The Great Hat Trick (Or, Guess Who's Knitting?)

2011-11-24T10:07:00.001-08:00

From the Egg Friends

Every fall, I buy a basic knitted hat. Some years it’s a beanie, others it has a brim, and others it’s a beret. It’s my perfect wardrobe item for the cold months: It matches everything, it's the easiest additional layer to carry, it can be stuffed into coat pockets and rear jean pockets, and into the Bermuda Triangle that is known as my purse. I wear it to death.

Then, inevitably, on the edge of every Spring, I lose it. Airports or bars or warm days where I simply forget it.

So this year, I was setting about buying a new knit hat. But thinking of going to the shops filled me with dread. Dealing with parking, people-shopping-crazy and overpriced, poorly made goods is not my idea of a good time. An idea percolated: I could make it. After all, I just needed ONE basic, neutral hat.

Gorgeous cloche hand-knitted by Jessica of A Yen for Craft for participating in her Challenge: Ridiculous. Seriously the best quality hat I've ever had, totally inspiring. Everyone asks me about it.

Problem is, I haven’t crocheted since 1998 and the knitting needles given to me by my mother-in-law has sat in the dark recesses of my closet for years, simply because I couldn’t remember how to cast on. Besides, there was a sewing machine nearby, geared by electricity. Fast, fast, fast. No counting stitches.

Still, perhaps this was proof that my Fashion on the Ration challenge was changing me. As cliche as yearlong personal challenges have become, I still think they can do a great service into “tricking” you into the habits that will serve you long-term. What begins as a scheme becomes a lifestyle. For me, that’s considering quality (of time spent and the finished object) over quantity.

So I learned to knit in early November. A mess of knits and purls. Here’s my first two hats!

#1: Occupy Hat

I’d been messing around with acrylic yarn to learn the basic stitches and was ready for a project when I read on Yarn-A-Go-Go about the Knit-In at Occupy Oakland. I’ve already talked about both my proximity and and passion for what’s been happening in my city, and here knitters were gathering to make handmade, warm items to help campers get through winter. Read Rachael’s great post about it here.

Much has changed in our city since then, but it was wonderful to begin this way—by making something for someone else. Knitting seems to enable that, a bit o’ selflessness. There’s no fitting issues, it’s totally portable, and I can’t think of anyone who lives in seasons who can’t use warm knits.

I didn’t finish my hat that day but here it is. Ugly, yes, but made with the best of intentions:

I used the Chunky Slouch Cap pattern on Ravelry. Though highly rated, it was over the head of this beginner. I wasn’t ready for all those yarn overs and SSKs.

#2: Ali’s Basic Hat

I was ready to make myself one and bought a skein of Berroco Peruvia Quick in a charcoal gray. Seeking an easier project, I turned to the Monk Hat pattern of Ravelry.

What I learned: Garter stitch and stockinette are different on straight needles vs. in the round. So, unlike the pattern, the brim is stockinette and the rest is garter. Sigh. Also, I was knitting in a bout of sleeplessness and accidentally knit two rows, leaving a crevice. Live and learn.

But guess what? I love wearing this. Not perfect, but I love that I made it myself and it’s already received lots of wear. I may lose it in the Spring, or, next year, I may tear it apart and make it the way it’s supposed to be made. And it’s wool!!

I’m in love. I’m sure there will be more on knitting soon, but in the meantime, it’s Thanksgiving and I want to give thanks. I once kept a “Gratitude Journal,” listing five things I was grateful for at the end of each day and that seems like a fitting exercise today.

I’m grateful for:

1. Being a beginner again, with a new craft. More excitement, less stress.

2. The incredible crafters in my life. Jessica and my mother-in-law helped me immensely these last weeks.

3. My family: My two sisters who let me prattle on about sewing; my mother and father who both admire and are mystified by my desire to live with less; my stepfather, who taught me the joy of giving to others; my nieces and nephew whose laughter goes straight to my heart; and to my late grandmother, who showed me that everything worth having is worth working for. I miss them immensely today, but they’re across the ocean. If they didn’t live in the tropics, they’d be getting hats this Christmas too!

4. The boy, whose humor and kindness is often the antidote to my frazzled nerves. Poor thing, he’s been hanging about his crafty mother and I asking for something handmade. The Colette Patterns Negroni, perhaps? How about a T-shirt? We’ve been too busy selfishly making, but his time has finally come: I just cast on—can you guess?—a hat.

5. You, readers. With all the brouhaha in the blogosphere of late, I feel incredibly grateful that I have a space where I can share my obsessions and journey with you and I’ve been met with incredible encouragement and kindness.

Happy Thanksgiving!

IKEA, Black Friday Crazy and Relishing the Homemade

2011-11-20T19:29:00.001-08:00

Hi all! I've been stitching away but not much has made its way into the blogosphere yet. In more exciting news, Sarah of Rhinestones and Telephones asked me to guest post as she's crafting her way to a homemade holiday. As we embark on Thanksgiving week, I talk about investing our time in what we really value. Find the post here.

Enjoy!

The Little Earthquakes Pant: Colette Clover, Take 1

2011-11-14T18:57:00.001-08:00

As I've mentioned, I'm a bit obsessed with making pants. I was tickled when I discovered Colette Patterns was releasing its first pants pattern this fall, the Clover, which was exactly the kind of pant I've been trying to produce: A slim, ankle length pant, reminiscent of the 1960s.

I've had this stretch navy twill in my stash forever. I love and hate this stuff equally. I bought yards of it at a Salvation Army probably a year and a half ago and used it for my Saggy Butt Capris (R.I.P.). Compared to nonstretch wovens, this fabric is flimsy and frustrating and attracts lint like the devil. Each time I do a cull, I try and throw the leftover yards in the donation pile and then snap it back out, having a hard time parting with what holds so much promise: a neutral with stretch. Surely, I can find some use for it.

You can see where this is going, right? I used my crappy twill fabric on this great pattern. Any of my unhappiness with the final product can be chalked up to fabric choice and not-so-careful planning during the fitting process. The side zipper ripples and I look like I walked out of a dustbin.

That said, I really loved wearing these today. The stretch is comfy and I love the ankle length: So, so versatile.

As I made these, we experienced several little earthquakes, I'd say 4-5 in a 3-week period. Usually unfettered, I found myself shook up by the frequency, worrying about the boy coming back home over the Bay Bridge. The name's also fitting given the problems this little project gave me (and did I mention I also destroyed its first zipper? Sigh).

Pattern: Colette Clover

Type of Garment: Slim ankle pants with waistband pockets and side zip

Fabric Used: Stretchy navy twill, purple and blue gingham for pockets

Notions: 7 inch zipper, twill tape

Age in stash: Fabric, thrifted, 1.5 years old

Size: I’m 28 W and 37 H, so I went by my hip size, Size 4. Inseam 26 1/4 inches.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Where do I begin? I was mainly worried about my swayback and I started with a large waist increase, adding an inch. The muslin sewed up seemingly fine.

Once I was putting my final touches on my fashion fabric, other fit issues became glaringly clear: I needed a narrow hip adjustment and a flat belly adjustment. The latter may be a different adjustment, given that the ill-fit cue was 2 inches of fold at the crotch, but the flat belly adjustment was the best option given the fact that I was 90 percent done. Talk about being pencil shaped: bigger waist, smaller everything else!

Instructions:

Excellent as always.

Did it meet expectations?

Yes and no. Great pattern, but I used subpar fabric and all these fitting issues may not be handy when I use a fabric with less stretch (I’m sure this has more than 2% stretch). There’s some wear on the fabric from the constant seam ripping, I couldn’t get the flat fell seams just right and there’s still excess ease at the hip area. Excess + stretch fabric + zipper = Rippling side seams! Ugh. I doubt I’ll ever tuck anything into it so I can hide the bulge.

On the upside, I really love the leg shape, the fit in the rear, and how comfortable it is to have stretch pants! I can bike and sit comfortably. I’m also liking the navy color, pairs well with many colors (coral, a recent fave) and it feels versatile while being a step up form my usual dark denim.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I really liked the shaped waistband, the midrise, and the pockets are a nice touch. More than anything I like how simple this is, so I can focus on fit. I should give a shout-out to the great sew-along and fitting advice over at Colette Patterns blog, Coletterie. I would’ve been lost without it, really demystifies fit issues.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, definitely. I’ve been dying for a red pair but I’ve got a nonstretch red twill and I’m afraid that it may be a feat. Either way, this pattern’s really a keeper. I’d love to also try adapting it to have a front fly and pockets for a different look.

Conclusion:

Great TNT potential of a classic look.

Out of curiosity: Do you have these fabrics you wished you loved (but don't) in your stash? Do you try and find a project for them or do you move on and move up, quality-wise?

You Don't Own Me, J. Crew: Copying the Schoolboy Blazer

2011-11-07T08:57:00.000-08:00

[Skip down to the pattern review here]

Greetings from Oakland! It's been an exciting and sometimes heartbreaking few weeks here, with the protests that lead to the unleashing of teargas and flashbang grenades onto a peaceful crowd in late October and a citywide General Strike last Wednesday that brought together 100,000 people.

After the boy and I returned from the Port of Oakland, where the march ended, the office building next to where I work at a nonprofit was "occupied" by a comparatively small group of people. Dumpsters were wheeled out into the intersection I cross daily, lit aflame and another violent clash occurred with the police. I returned to work the next day, disheartened that the peaceful protests I saw and had participated in had devolved. Arrests and injuries racked up, including two veterans. Graffiti covered the walls and windows of offices that provide medical and youth services.

By noon, when I stepped out for lunch, Occupy volunteers were cleaning off the graffiti with steel brushes and paint. You gotta hella love Oakland.

I know this isn't the place to wax sentimental on my deeply populist leanings (though I'd argue my foray into handmade and living with less is, at least in part, a response to the society I live in), but I did want to make two points, the second which relates to our wardrobes.

First, as a media person myself, I'm disappointed how the events in Oakland have been reported. My experience was with an incredible group of people who cared about this country: A diverse mass of families, teachers, union men, and veterans. People after my own heart, the America I love. And those headline catchers are the minority, the rabble-rousers who came ready for a fight, with their shields and gas masks.

Second, I've been thinking about this quote from Linda Grant's The Thoughtful Dresser:

Clothes as the story of our lives. And if you were to gather together all the clothes you have ever owned in all your life, each baby shoe and winter coat and wedding dress, you would have your autobiography.

When we think about our clothes, what will each one tell us about that particular moment in our lives when we made it or bought it or wore it and loved it?

What this finished object will remind me of is my pre-Occupation of what was happening in my city as I made it and a whole lot of hope.

Pattern Review: The Occupy Blazer (Source: J. Crew)

In a previous post, I detailed how I was copying this J. Crew blazer using the paper rub-off method.

Source Jacket: J. Crew

Type of Garment: Blazer with contrast undercollar, collar tab, and pockets with flaps, unlined bodice, lined sleeves, back vent.

Fabric Used: Shell -- Black canvas in stash, very lightweight double-sided fabric (plaid/polka dot) for undercollar, thrifted emerald lining for sleeves

Occupy Blazer

Notions: 3 3/4 buttons, 5 smaller buttons

Age in stash: Blazer borrowed from a colleague, several years old. Canvas and collar fabric 1 year, lining new-to-me

Size: Small

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Shortened at waist by an inch
Shortened sleeves by one inch
Made patch pockets instead of welt pockets
Small bust adjustment
Added about an inch total to hip area

Instructions: I sort of just winged it, though it helped that this is my third jacket-like garment I've made. Lining the sleeves (for easy slipping on and off) was tricky, but I could do the back vent just by looking at the source garment.

Did it meet expectations?

Despite the fact that I hit burnout halfway through this project and would've abandoned it altogether if it wasn't my colleague's jacket that needed to be returned, I'm impressed that I largely pulled this off. The canvas is fairly heavy and stiff and the collar isn't perfect, but the fit is perfect and the details—especially the undercollar with tab—I would be hard pressed to find using a regular pattern. We've been in the midst of an Indian summer, but I'm hopeful it's such a basic piece that it'll get lots of wear.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Loved the details as noted above, and the lined sleeves are a nice treat. Because this was such a complicated garment to trace, the pattern pieces didn't line up perfectly at the armscye and the shoulder seam, but I fixed it during construction.

Also: I'm not convinced it's easier to leave a jacket unlined -- it takes just as much energy to make the facing pieces and the inside look pretty as it does to make a lining, in my opinion.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

If I become a blazer convert because of this, then yes. In terms of sewing it again, I'll need to forget how much work it was (so many pieces!) before that happens, though. I'd likely use a fabric that has a bit more drape than this.

Any new techniques?

New details: Pocket flaps, darts emanating from front collar and shoulder seam at rear, back vent, lined sleeves.

Conclusion:

This copying ready-to-wear technique really works! I also realized that, while I love J. Crew's styling and catalog, their clothes are really ill-fitting for me and frankly, poorly made for the price. This may have cured me from worshiping at their altar. Hooray for handmade!

Thanks for bearing with me through this looong post. I'm still in sewing burnout, but there's stitching afoot. More soon!

Review: Simplicity 3692 (Built By Wendy Knit Top)

2011-10-26T23:30:00.000-07:00

Pattern: Simplicity 3692 Built By Wendy Pattern

Type of Garment: Knit Top

Fabric Used: Two of the boy’s old work T-shirts, dark green interlock. One might’ve sufficed if I didn’t have to navigate the company logo.

Size: On the pattern, I would’ve been a size 12. But other reviews have noted how big this is, so I compared it to my TNT crewneck tee pattern (BBW Homestretch XS) and it most closely approximated a 4, so I cut that size. I also shortened the pattern by 2 inches.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Because I was worried about what the smaller size might do to the armscye, I sewed the shoulder seams and yoke seams at 1/4 inch, to lengthen the armscye. It still felt awfully wide and long, so I increased the side seams to a 1 inch seam allowance. I ended up shaving off another inch on each side, starting with the bottom, to make it less A-line and more straight. 2-inch hem.

Instructions:
Perfect. This was such an easy project to put together.

Did it meet expectations?
Yes! I’ve been taking on such big, complicated projects lately that it was wonderful to work with a fast and easy project that looks good. The yoke and the square neckline is what makes this pattern really special. Sort of an updated tee.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Like the clean finish on the neckline because of the yoke. I didn’t like the shape of the pattern at the side seams, but that’s easily fixed.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes. I’ve seen some great versions out there — with sleeves, dress-length, contrast yoke. Some folks have even done this in a woven. I’m particularly interested in how this might look with a fabric with some drape.

And the pattern reminds me of two favorite pieces in my closet — a knit dress and top from Banana Republic in a heavy knit with a flutter sleeve and an embroidered yoke. They’ve got this tailored bohemian vibe to them that I love. This pattern would be perfect if I wanted to make a similar dress/top. All I would have to do is trace the curved side seams from the BR dress/top onto the BBW pattern and add seam allowances.

Any new techniques?

No.

Conclusion:
A nice, simple addition to both my closet and my pattern arsenal.

How to Copy Ready-to-Wear

2011-10-23T09:03:00.000-07:00

There's nothing more empowering or more sustainable than being able to re-create or redesign a favorite garment yourself. —Steffani Lincecum

Several of you expressed interest in the method I used to copy my favorite jeans, so I took a few photos when I recently copied this J. Crew blazer that belongs to a colleague. Not so much a tutorial as a demonstration, but feel free to ask me questions and I'll do my best to answer. This is my favorite method at the moment. Definitely a game-changer.

Source Garment: J. Crew Blazer, several years ol

An Introduction to the Rub-Off Method

The techniques I'm using to copy ready-to-wear comes from Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit: Using the Rub-off Technique to Re-Create and Redesign Your Favorite Fashions by Steffani Lincecum. Lincecum has worked to create wardrobes for Hollywood and the stage. She says:

Fitting times are very limited and we considerably cut down research and development time by building "closets" for various characters. If we had a shape and size that worked, I'd create a rub-off pattern and then make multiple garments in different fabrics, slightly varying the details along the way.

I know I've got a closet full of things that have a particular shape and size that I reach for over and over. This is also a great way to copy vintage pieces, since you don't have to take the garment apart. Lincecum goes on:

The most compelling reason to learn the rub off technique concerns the garments you already love to wear. We all have a favorite skirt or dress that we bought several seasons ago and that fits just right in every way—and no matter how hard we search, we can't find a similar one anywhere. In addition, we all have that one blouse we adore and want to have in every color, or at least be able to restyle it in interesting ways. Now you can!

Many of us are keen on using patterns, some of us are skilled at draping and she introduces the rub-off method as a third technique to employ when making clothes. For rub-off, there are two ways you can do it:

The paper rub-off: All you need is cardboard, craft paper, pins and your favorite garment. You place pins at strategic points in the garment to create the pattern. In the book, she uses this method on a skirt and blouse
The Fabric rub-off: Use muslin, other fabric, or interfacing without the "glue" to drape on the garment and trace. Preferred method when "its shape prevents it from being laid flat for tracing or because pinning in the original could cause damage." In the book, she uses this method on a dress and purse.

I used the fabric rub-off with my jeans and the paper rub-off with the blazer. Here's a quick-and-dirty demo.

Paper Rub-Off

Get a piece of cardboard and tape craft paper to it.

Draw two perpendicular lines. The garment will need to line up correctly so you need these as a guide.

Lay the garment along these lines, in this case front right to the side seam (which will be symmetrical to front left with the exception of the buttons/buttonholes). Center Front or Back will likely go on the vertical line, the bottom of the garment on the horizontal. It won't line up perfectly because of darts, curved hems etc. but you should get the vertical line fairly lined up.

Stick pins through all seams at important points. It's going to look like your source garment is undergoing some serious acupuncture. The pins perforate the paper, creating a guide. Here I marked the pocket flap edges and the bodice contour dart.

The collar, shoulder seam and armscye

Once you remove the pins and garment, you'll find all these perforations. Connect the dots!

Voila! You have a pattern piece. It may need some tidying up, but I've found these methods so far so accurate that I'm 95 percent of the way there.

After I traced the front piece, I traced the two back pieces, the two collar pieces, and the facing. I'm using a sleeve from a previous project. Here they are:

What I do after this point:

Lay the cut pieces on the garment, double-checking my work. Add or subtract as needed.
Adjust the pattern to accommodate the darts, adding width.
Make pattern alterations for fit*
Add seam allowances (I do this directly on the fabric)
Sew the garment. If you need help with instructions, use existing pattern instructions from a similar garment. You also have the very handy original nearby to examine as you construct.

I know I spoke about why I love this method in a previous post: You begin with the fit. But in that case, I was copying my favorite jeans. This time around I'm copying a great looking but ill-fitting garment and I'm realizing a finer point: I may be able to skip making a muslin altogether.

*Typically we make the muslin to see how the garment will fit, but I already have the garment. And wearing it, I can tell I need a small bust adjustment, about an inch more width in the waist and hip, and want to shave the length on bodice and sleeve by an inch. Once I trace the pattern, I can make the changes and cut straight into my fashion fabric. We'll see how this works out.

I'm very much a novice at this method but I hope this was useful to some of you. Any questions?

The 80/20 Rule: Examining My Wardrobe

2011-10-18T23:31:00.000-07:00

When I embarked on my Fashion on the Ration challenge in January, I did not expect to be utterly obsessed with what's in my closet. Though I haven't been detailing the challenge much here, I assure you it dictates all of my shopping decisions and many of my sewing ones. One unexpected side effect of the challenge: Regular purging of the wardrobe.

I'm an advocate for having a smaller, curated wardrobe, though what that entails still mystifies me. It feels like my wardrobe's in constant flux: I've been able to accrue a number of garments via thrifting or as hand-me-downs this year, but there's nothing worse than not being able to buy/find what you want and constantly having to look at a closet full of stuff that never gets worn.

So many of the unworn lovelies—either bought, thrifted or handmade—have moved on. I've been pawning off prized pieces on friends, sold some to consignment shops, and have donated bags to the thrift store. Now that my active wardrobe (for the season) is down to about 100 pieces, I tallied them up and got geeky with the data.

No surprises here: I love denim and casual pants, cardigans and t-shirts. I'm growing a wee dress, skirt and jacket garden. And I buy way too many tops/blouses. Seventy percent of my pants have some stretch and nearly half my wardrobe is knit. In other words, I'm a modern gal with more feminine aspirations. There's a ruffle in there somewhere.

But then I looked at just my tried-and-trues, which I define as not just the things that I wear and feel great in (I'm looking at you, thrifted Michael Kors shift dress) but the things I reach for on a regular basis (at least 1-2 times a week). The numbers shrink considerably. In fact, it's the Pareto Principle in action: I wear 20 percent of my wardrobe 80 percent of the time.

Some insights:

I either need to stop buying layering tanks and tops/blouses or zone in on the ones that I do wear and replicate what I like about them
Skirts, I think, are the big culprit. I'm still not totally hip to wearing skirts. Too slim and I look like a pencil, too full and I don't know what to pair it with. So I keep thrifting these tops thinking they'll make me into a skirt-wearing woman.
Lifestyle has a lot to do with it. I often commute to work via bike and pants and tees and flats are the easiest way to get out the door, on the bike, and through the day. Wearing a skirt or dress means wearing bike shorts and pinning the skirt together. Ugh.
There's no such thing as enough cardigans. Once I'm off the ration, watch out.
All my TNTs are neutrals: dark denim, black, gray. Outliers: A fuschia knit dress and a striped tee.
Besides neutrals, I love jewel-tones. Favorite contrast colors: Red and white.
Most of my color comes from cardigans, shoes, and scarves.

If I was completely practical about it, I'd zone in on this 20 percent as a guide in all my sewing/shopping. These would be my marching orders, to buy or sew:

Jeans or casual pants with at least 2 percent stretch and great recovery in a neutral or jewel-toned color. Straight-leg or skinny, 3/4, 7/8 and full length. Mid-rise.
Invest in great quality tanks and tees in neutral colors and jewel-toned colors.
Invest in great quality cardigans. Neutrals covered, so look for contrast colors not in the rest of the wardrobe: mint green, kelly green, seafoam, mustard.
Recreate the favorite knit dress for the warm months using a thick knit.
Make skirts that are fitted in the waist and hip and have movement at the knee.
Buy flats in multiple colors.

Not a bad foundation, eh? But admittedly a bit boring. What about dresses and lingerie and vintage clothes and prints? I love them all, but evidence shows that I never wear them.

What I'm realizing is that I have two modes of operation:

1) Super-organized planner lady who makes pie charts and thinks about things like the Pareto Principle, and

2) Shiny Object! Must. Have. Pretty. Dress.

I suspect, sewing-wise, the cooler months bring out #1 and and warmer months #2, but I likely vacillate back and forth all the time. Nevertheless, it's no surprise that I've got on the cutting table: a pair of navy ankle pants, a gray-ish A-line skirt, a fuschia v-neck tee, and a black blazer. Some TNT shoe-ins, some reaching to expand my style.

What about you? What does your wardrobe and your tried-and-trues have to tell you and could it help your sewing?

A Little Jacket: Fall Essential, Numero Dos

2011-10-11T19:40:00.000-07:00

For my second item in the Fall Essentials Sew-Along and the Colette Patterns Fall Palette Challenge, I made myself a little jacket.

I say little because 1) I'm not used to wearing jackets, I've been a die-hard cardigan gal through-and-through and 2) the hem is shorter than what I'm used to! It feels little.

The inspiration can be largely traced back to EmersonMade's Tweed Jacket, inspired by the 60s.

Need I say more? And then there's this lovely from J. Crew:

I was also inspired by gorgeous jackets made by Sunni and ScruffyBadger. So I decided to take the great jacket leap.

Taking a cue from Solvi, I'll try and start "reviewing" my projects -- it's helpful for me to reflect on a finished object, and I hope some of it is helpful to you.

Pattern: Built by Wendy Coats & Jacket Book, Fitted Jacket pattern with help from two other jacket/coat patterns on transforming the jacket into a notched collar blazer.

Type of Garment: Jacket/Blazer

Fabric Used: Shell—Vintage felted wool, brown. Lining—purple, likely polyester. Both thrifted.

Notions: Two buttons, 3/4 inch

Age in stash: Pattern, less than a year. Wool, about two years. Lining, new to me.

Size: Small

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I made a quick muslin and realized I needed a few alterations to the pattern.

Sleeve too full in the upper arm, tightened by an inch using technique in Fit for Real People
Small Bust Adjustment on princess seams
Lengthened bodice by 1-1/2 inches, shortened sleeves to 3/4 length
Added rounded edges to front of jacket
Drafted facing and full lining.
Added 3/4 extension for button closure to front pieces
The collar didn’t reach all the way to the front and the bodice front seemed quite low for what I was going for. Copied a collar and undercollar and adjusted front bodice from another pattern to get a notched collar. Needed to add height to rear bodice to make the collar wrap around the neck better.

Instructions: In these franken-patterns, I need to use a pattern that closely approximates what I’m going for. So, I mostly used the incredible directions from the Colette Lady Grey coat, since it’s also a fully-lined, princess seam jacket. The only change was that I love the way BBW patterns sew the sleeves flat (rather than set-in), so I did that.

Did it meet expectations?

At first, I was obsessed about whether the collar was hugging my neck enough, since I was after a tailored look. I actually had to add a piece mid-construction to help this problem but the spread between the two lapels is still wider than I’d like. I was also dubious about the length, wondering if it was too short. Another 1-1/2 longer might be perfect. And in the next iteration I may rotate the shoulder seam forward a tad.

That said, this little jacket is really growing on me. I love that it’s fully lined, and it seems to pair nicely with skirts and dresses and deep colors with higher necklines. It’s really something that well help entice some things out of my closet, will help me with new combos.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Despite all my changes, I’ll certainly look to the basic fitted jacket pattern or others in the book for future jackets/coats. It’s really a great foundation and the possibilities seem endless. A muslin, though, is a must.

Also, this is the first time I’ve worked with a pattern without seam allowances. Love it. So easy. So inviting to experiment.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Definitely. I’ve thought about using other variations on the basic fitted jacket for a good-looking fleece jacket this winter. Nothing seems to serve me better when I’m chilly. Something I could both wear to bed and out to the store.

Any new techniques?

Yes! I took a foolhardy whack at padstitching the collar, but I used real canvas rather than hair canvas. I’d only do this again if it was absolutely necessary the lapels stay in place.

And bound buttonholes, baby! Still trying to find a technique I really love. Tried Gertie’s and settled on the patch method in the Reader’s Digest book. Next time, I’ll try Tasia of Sewaholic’s tute. Not sure if they’re worth it, but in something with just a few buttonholes it does give it a nice look.

Conclusion:

Generally, I’ve come to the conclusion that I’m only pleased with something I’ve made a second time around because the first time’s all about learning my way around the type of garment. Though I’ve never made a jacket with a notched collar before, last year’s semi-success of the Colette Lady Grey coat and the muslin infinitely helped. I think this is paving the way for me to start wearing jackets in place of my omnipresent cardigans.

What about you? Are you a jacket gal? And if so, how would you describe your favorite jacket?

R.I.P.: A Graveyard of Failed Pants

2011-10-08T09:45:00.000-07:00

Since I hatched the desire to sew garments, I wanted to make pants. And in typical Ali-style, my yen for them far exceeded my ability to make them. I had just finished my first skirt (which also ended up unused) and was still precarious about the importance of zippers and hems.

Spring 2010

I started with this pattern from 1968.

I ended up with these red pants:

I busted my butt on these, but the problems, they are a-plenty:

I chose the wrong pattern. I wanted cigarette pants and the Colette Patterns Clover didn't exist yet. I kept slimming down the leg, it was torture. An 1/8 inch here, an 1/8 there.
I chose the wrong fabric for cigarette pants. Fabric was a thick old tablecloth, crease-friendly
I was clueless about the stretch I was accustomed to wearing and didn't provide enough ease in the hips and upper thigh. The upper thigh seems like a magical area to me -- too tight, too bad. The elastic waist shimmied down when I walked. I had to pull them up when I was sitting.

Alas, RIP, Red Birthday Pants.

Summer 2010

Then, I tackled some Burda Ruby shorts. Luckily, the hip and rise on the Ruby shorts were nearly perfect. On the second denim pair, I lowered the crotch, making them infinitely more wearable. They are my de facto shorts pattern. 3-inch inseam.

At the end of summer, I had a hankering for some capris. I had thrifted yards of this stretchy navy twill. You can read about the saga here, "The Capris that Weren't."

The problem? Like my first pair, I chose the wrong pattern, Built By Wendy s3850. It's a great pattern, but it's for straight leg shorts, 3/4 or full length. I wanted tight, below-the-knee capris. I kept messing with the side and inseams. Better, in my opinion, to begin with something that approximates what you're after.

In hindsight, I learned:

How to install a front fly zipper and side pockets. I used this pattern to guide me through making my jeans knockoff.
How to use a TNT pattern (in this case, the Ruby shorts) to judge fit, especially if not making a muslin. I needed to take in the side seams at the hip and rear seams at the waist considerably.
Though all my messing with it has left the inside a mess (and I'm therefore less likely to wear it), in the few times I do wear it now, I find that I'm not bothered by the issues that made me obsessive before. Distance has lead to forgiveness but also the realization that fitted pants may wrinkle and stretch as we move around. Just go with it.

Fall 2010 & Spring 2011

Armed with Cal Patch's Design-it-Yourself Clothes: Patternmaking Simplified, I began drafting my own pants pattern, inspired by this lovely pair from the Sewing Princess.

I first took apart a pair of thrifted pants and put them back together. Whew! I had no space for my butt to breathe and the leg was all wrong. On a short frame, I just looked frumpy. This is when I began to learn the importance of the difference in shape between the rear (lots of room!) and front piece, and the shape of the leg. So bad it wasn't even picture worthy.

I tried again, using a polyester stretch, also thrifted, pictured at left.

Not a very flattering photo, but these are one of the few me-made items I'm so glad I made. They fit like leggings (stretchy, elastic waist) but can also be work worthy since they're black and slim, not skinny. Perfect for traveling. Problem? I couldn't replicate this. I spent so much time taking in the seams and not keeping track.

Last Spring, I took a third whack at the self-drafted pants pattern using thrifted khakis, pictured at right. They don't look terrible, but again, I spent so much time trying to get the leg just right and in the end, it was all shoddy construction and the wrong fabric. RIP, khakis.

Fall 2011

Which brings us to the present, with the knockoff of my favorite GAP 1969 Real Straight Jeans. Many of you said you wished you could do a similar project, but consider my history of trying to get it right. :0 Success (I love 'em-I wear 'em)-Failure ratio: 2:6. That's six pairs made but never or rarely worn.

What I learned, though all of this:

Quality begins with the quality of the pattern or the garment you're copying. Otherwise, it's patience, patience, patience (or: frustration, frustration, frustration).
Simple pants are actually quite easy to make (side seams, inseams and crotch seam) but fit is everything -- good to keep a pair that's similar nearby to check measurements, i.e. rise, inseam length, etc. Wide-leg pants may be a good place to start -- much, much easier to fit.
I became acutely aware of my slim hips and sway back and where I like my pants to fall on both my waist and my leg. You'd think I'd realized this after a lifetime of wearing pants, but alas, no.
Most of us are accustomed to wearing pants with at least 2% stretch.
Having one pattern that tells you how to do everything you want is priceless. For me, it's S3850 -- as much as I dig the vintage look of the streamlined no-pockets + side zip, on a casual day, I still long for belt loops and front flys and pockets I can sink my hands into.

So, after numerous failed attempts to make slim ankle pants, I'm going to take what I've learned and jump into Colette Patterns' Clover Sew-Along. I'll make a pair with the navy stretchy twill used in my Capris-that-Weren't just as they were designed. And perhaps in the Spring I can do a colorful color with a lower rise, pockets and the whole bit.

But all of this has got me thinking. If you told me in Spring 2010 that it would take me six failed attempts to get a pair of pants I could be really proud of, I might have given up sewing all together.

Of course, now I'm thrilled that I can make pants and I know that failures are unavoidable, even for experienced seamstresses, and I've learned an incredible amount about my favorite garment along the way. But, really, this post can either be disheartening (as a new seamstress) or validating ('cause you've been there, too).

What about you? How many unwearable garments have you left in you wake? And has it been worth your time?

Happy sewing, all! I've got some finished objects to share with you soon :)

You Don't Own Me, GAP: Recreating My Favorite Jeans

2011-09-17T09:32:00.000-07:00

While I was away, one garment among the few in my carry-on suitcase got perpetual use: My GAP 1969 Real Straight Jeans.

I bought these in the midst of the skinny jean craze, when skinny jeans felt less versatile for my everyday life. Too tight for both my working life and my comfort in high heat. The straight jean was a revelation: I could still have a slim silhouette with comfort (low to mid rise, a bit of stretch) and confidence (the cut flattered my rectangular frame and style).

I love these jeans. I’d own one in every color if I could.

And when I returned, an idea percolated. I was drooling over J.Crew’s fall catalog (full of corduroy!) and I remembered that Steffani Lincecum’s Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit: Using the Rub-Off Technique to Re-Create and Redesign Your Favorite Fashions was lingering on the bookshelf. I also had a bit of purple corduroy in my stash that I had thrifted nearly two years ago.

When I first bought Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit, I was instantly in love with the concept. You begin with a garment and work backwards to the pattern. For those of us who have started with a pattern and fiddled endlessly to achieve the right fit, it makes sense, doesn’t it? If you start with something you know fits, you save yourself a lot of headaches later on in the sewing process.

So with some handy transparent patterning material (like interfacing without the "glue"), I traced my favorite jeans. To be fair, she doesn’t cover tracing trousers in the book (rather, a skirt, blouse and purse and then shows you how to alter the master pattern for different looks), so I adapted the technique with lots and lots of double-checking along the way.

And when it came to figuring out the smaller pieces, like the fly and the pocket yoke, I depended on a trusty pants pattern I had already used, Simplicity 3850, a Built By Wendy Pattern, to guide me.

Once I had all the pattern pieces, I added seam allowances (directly on the fabric) and made a muslin. Despite the 2% spandex in the original, the give of the corduroy with wear made it a fine fit.

So, did it work?

Yes! It fit the way I wanted it to and I am delighted. Sure, there’s things I’ll tweak next time, but I do love these.

Pants can be a conundrum for me. They are the garments that make me feel the most comfortable, but sewing them has been difficult. We’ve so many curves to think about, agility to consider. And what’s baffled me is the difference in leg shape in the front pattern piece and the back. In most contemporary pants, it feels like the rear piece wraps generously around the leg to a slim front piece. That's something that stumped me when trying to draft my own.

But now it’s no longer a secret — I now have a pattern for my favorite GAP jeans that I can use over and over and over, making it better each time. Totally worth it. This is my first garment for the Fall Essentials Sew-Along and the Colette Patterns Fall Palette Challenge.

What about you? Do you have a favorite garment you’d love to recreate?

Fall Sew-Alongs, Challenges and Hello Again!

2011-09-07T09:13:00.000-07:00

Hello, lovely ladies! Just a quick post to say hello and drool over some things that have captured my imagination. I'm back from the island and fall's gonna be a busy time for me at both work and home, but know I'm still peeking into the blogosphere and am utterly inspired by what's afoot.

FALL ESSENTIALS SEW-ALONG

With the success of the Summer Essentials Sew-Along and the amazing-ness of my two co-hosts, Queen-of-the-Sorbetto Sarah of Rhinestones and Telephones and Alessa in all her drool-worthy knit dresses, we're doing it again!

A major shout-out is way overdue to these ladies, who have whipped up an incredible plan while I was away. Check out their intro posts for more info (linked above), and enjoy these fun categories. As always, this is just a guide, a way of jogging your brain to think about what you'd rather not live without this fall.

Chic Chemises for Cool Climates
Blouses, tops, vests, cardigans, and sweaters! These wardrobe essentials can carry you from day to night, not to mention provide necessary layering to keep out the chill.

Fabulous Frocks
Dresses of all styles; mini, short, or long! Keep yourself warm in your modish designs, layering with tights and boots!

Underneath It All
When you're spending months covered from the neck down, a glamorous underpinning of your choice adds a secret, luxurious touch that chases the cold away!

Tender Tootsies
Let's not forget your frosty feet! Socks, slippers and the like are the order of the day. Keep those tootsies warm and dry!

Those Cozy Nights
Is there anything better than snuggling up in a cozy pair of pajamas with a hot drink and a book whilst Jack Frost works his magic outside? I think not! Sleepwear of all types are the way to go here!

Baby It's Cold Outside
Coats, hats, and mittens donned to keep the cold at bay, especially when out enjoying the spectacular fall colours!

Sarah is keeping a Member List on her blog. To officially join the sew-along, just join the Flickr group.

COLETTE PATTERNS FALL PALETTE CHALLENGE

I was blown away by this challenge in this spring and to the best of my ability, I'm hopping on board this fall!

Here's a quick description from their site:

"So what is the Fall Palette Challenge? In a nutshell, it’s a 10-week challenge to get you thinking about sewing pieces that work together, coordinate, and work for you. It’s designed to inspire your thinking about color and help you make clothes that fit your style and wardrobe.
Here’s how it works. You choose a color palette for Fall, choose how many pieces you want to make, and try to complete them within our 8 week timeframe. It’s really fun and low pressure. If you don’t finish, who cares?"

Check out the intro post here.

SELF-STITCHED SEPTEMBER

Another me-made month after my own heart.

I'm not officially participating this year because it's such an insane month hereabouts, i.e. big work shin-dig tonight in which I have 1) nothing appropriate and me-made to wear and 2) no time to make it. But I have participated in every me-made month prior to this and the experiences have absolutely changed the way I sew and dress. In fact, I feel most days I dress with me-made wears, me-made month or no!

If you're considering it, hop in! You won't regret it. And I'll be seeing y'all in March.

FALL INSPIRATION

Drooling over J. Crew, Emerson Made and Colette Patterns. Snapped up that Clover cigarette pants pattern like nobody's business. I'm thinking of layering neutrals, pops of color, clean lines, contemporary comfort meets vintage details.

As always, sewing from El Stash. This is what I've got so far. Brown, gray and navy as neutrals. Purple and that lovely green for pops of color.

I'll be plugging away at a few projects these next two months. And unlike the free-for-all creative playing and sewing I did this summer (which was fun, but left me with a number of unwearable garments), I'd like to slow down and focus on quality as cool weather approaches.

What are you cooking up for fall??

Goldilocks and the Four Shirred Dresses & Other Tales of Dressmaking

2011-07-31T21:29:00.000-07:00

Breaking my selfish-sewing stint, I made four pieces out of a purple, printed knit I had in my stash. I partly blame Tanit-isis and her recent adventures with shirring (a lovely red number) and I thought I'd take my hand at it. My sister nearly exclusively lives in shirred tops, so above you'll see a strapless tunic for her, the Mama Bear, a halter for her Three-Year-Old Bear, a center-halter for the One-Year-Old Bear, and a wee one for Baby Bear, due next month.

In Ali-fashion, I just winged it, since it's essentially a series of rectangles sewn with straight stitches and an elastic thread bobbin. The internets is full of helpful tutes. Easy-peasy? Yes. But it took each iteration for Goldilocks to get it juuuust right. I'm hoping the One-Year-Old, whose dress I started with, won't hold the funkiness of the inside of her dress against me. :0

Next up: The Sewaholic Pendrell. A big fan of Tasia and her style, I bought this pattern for my other sister as she's pear-shaped. It sat in my stash for months. I was probably disuaded by what I perceived to be lots of pattern pieces, even though other bloggers heartily recommended it and said it goes pretty fast.
This is such a quality pattern. All the instructions (and a little help from the online sew-along) were crystal clear, making working with this chiffon (?) nearly bearable. This is view B, with ruffles along with princess seam and a drapey-sleeve. As I tend to be more minimal, I would've chosen A (pleated sleeve) or C (sleeveless shell), but this was the sister's call, not mine. And you know what? I'm sold. It's a brilliant way to use the princess seam, and really not that hard to put together.

Sizing: I was worried this would be too loose for my sister, who typically wears tight knits. I did drop the neckline three inches for her and most of all wanted to make sure it fit her hips. So I cut out the size that corresponds to Bust 34—since we're the same there—and am crossing my fingers that it fits.

And if it doesn't, I'd be delighted to take it off her hands. The sacrifices a sister must make, really. See how it just drapes over the body?

And to catch up with me-mades, here's a bow-tie collar blouse that I made during my June sewing binge. Challis in my stash -- love this fabric! Adapted from self-drafted bodice. Probably not a seasonless keeper, but it fed a yen. The skirt is adapted from a dress given to me by my younger sister.

With temperatures finally rising and a trip back to the island next week, I was aching for a denim skirt. Something light and comfy and casual enough. I used an oversized thrifted dress, bought for a couple bucks, and the Lisette pattern, Simplicity 2211, the Market Skirt.

[Forgive my expression!] First off, this is a fabulous pattern. I bought it because I thought it would be well suited for reusing clothes because the pattern pieces are so small. I cut out a size 14—according to my waist measurement—last night, and whipped it up this morning to go to the (can you guess?) the market.

Though I took the waist in an inch, it still feels quite roomy/borderline unflattering to me, but I'm trying to wear it a few times and get accustomed to it before I rip it apart. First of all, it sits quite low on me, hence the belt (salvaged from the original dress) and is a classic A-line with no real hip definition. Were I to make it again, I'd pull in all the seams just a tad. I suspect this has everything to do with my shape, and very little the pattern. And besides, for the purposes of getting through humidity, the looseness may just be what I need.

All of this would've been obvious had I made a muslin. But definitely using this pattern again, it's so flexible: contrast topstitching and buttons, or even color blocking. So many possibilities!

Homebound

I can't tell you how touched I was by all of your comments on my last post. I know I said so in the comments, but I want you to know that I took every one of them to heart. It was wonderful to hear your perspectives, how sewing has occupied a space in your life that is bigger than the garments themselves. You've got me thinking of all sorts of things about sewing and life and blogging, which I'd like to reflect on here. Don't worry! This will still be a sewing blog, I promise :)

But those posts will have to wait. In fact, this may be my last post for the rest of the summer. I'm returning home—handmade gifts above in hand—to pay my final respects to my grandmother, whose home I grew up in, and who we lost shortly after my last post. She was one hell of a woman, one hell of a seamstress. She'd made this blue dress in the 60s in the old country, and she gave it to me a few years ago. It's been stained and sitting in my closet, but I will adjust it to fit me (whew! she was tiny) and dye it black.

I've had mixed luck with dyeing: Do any of you have any guidance or resources you could point me to? It doesn't seem like I have time to ship it off to get professionally done, but it'd mean a lot to me to wear something she made.

Summer

Thanks to those of you (70 worldwide!) who have participated in the Summer Essentials Sew-Along, which will be beautifully wrapped up by my amazing co-hosts Sarah and Alessa in my absence. I didn't get to everything I'd planned, but I loved sewing with you all this summer, and more than anything, enjoyed seeing the incredible talent in the Flickr group. And thanks to Alessa and Sarah for their enthusiasm and heart.

Finally: To you, and summer sewing, and again, to amazing women who make things.

A hui hou.
xoxoxoxo

And the RococoNouveau collarette goes to...

2011-07-07T08:09:00.000-07:00

Stephanie Lynn of The Girl with the Star Spangled Heart! She's sporting her fabulous handmade circle skirt, made as part of this year's Summer Essentials Sew-Along!

And she'll be receiving this sassy number, the Gilda collarette:

Congratulations to Stephanie Lynn and thanks to all the ladies who entered! Still got a yen for one of these gorgeous collarettes? Kristen of RococoNouveau has generously offered a 10 percent discount to readers. Here's a discount code for her Etsy shop: TWRFRIENDS, good until July 15!

Here's a few of my faves, for your visual edification:

The Eliza Day

The Holly Golightly

The Madame Curie

And the Marquise de Merteuil

And the Wanda Woodward

Hope you're all well, folks. I'm resting after my June sewing binge.

To sewing, and summer. x

Red, White & Blue (Challenge: Ridiculous)

2011-07-04T09:15:00.000-07:00

This month I have been sewing like I've got something to prove. Perhaps it was the beginning of the Summer Essentials Sew-Along or a few sewing classes that revved me back into gear, but I have sewn eight (!!) wearable garments since June 1. Compare that to the entire Spring, when I think I sewed one or two finished garments.

The summer tally so far: four blouses, a silk slip, a full skirt, and two dresses. Half of those items were on my SESA list. Oops.

Enter Jessica of A Yen for Craft's Challenge: Ridiculous, which I'm going to ~~justify~~ blame for my obsessive behavior. She explains:

Challenge: Ridiculous is all about taking your craft to zany and unexpected places. Maybe it means taking on a "stretch" project that pushes your comfort zone - venturing into whimsical prints if you're usually one for whipping up basics, trying out a new technique you've been eyeing for ages now, pouring gobs of time into getting the details right if you're usually a fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants type of crafter, or drafting a pattern for the first time ever. Or maybe for you it's about bringing the spontaneity back into crafting - she saw! she coveted! she plunged in without a second thought! - which could be the perfect antidote for us overthinkers out there (ahem). Great! That's exactly what the Ridiculous Challenge is all about! There is nothing Too Ridiculous or Not Ridiculous Enough. But if you ever catch a thought that begins with, "I really shouldn't be doing this ..." then 1) Go do it, please! and 2) consider it Ridiciulous Enough!

Overplanning, overthinking, overplanner? Check, check, check.

I think the striped Rooibos is what got me, really. Though I love to WEAR essentials, I love to sew in a way that forces me to frankenpattern. It is the spontaneity that Jessica mentions above. But it is not complete whimsy, rather it's wanting something and seeing if I can make it with the materials I have on hand. To me this is the best part of sewing, marshaling together my vision with my growing skill. And because it's clear it may not work from the get-go, there's sort of a built in, "Well, I tried." Sewing without conviction: A marvelous playpen.

Back to the Rooibos. I wanted a striped dress, and guess what? With a little pattern alteration, a thrifted striped shirt and an old muumuu, viola!

It sent me down the path of ridiculous. I found myself enamored with these two garments from EmersonMade, a designer who I am deeply in love with. I suggest you check out all her wares, they're so beautiful!

How about this white and blue seersucker blouse?

Or this pleated red skirt with pockets?

Could I create a similar red-white-and-blue ensemble over the Fourth of July weekend, inspired by a designer from the Live-Free-or-Die state? Could I do it without buying anything new?

On Friday night, I cut out a blouse and Challenge: Ridiculous began.

RED, WHITE & BLUE

Blue & White:
According to my nifty Fabric class, I have what I can most closely approximate to voile. Yards and yards of the stuff, in blue/white and red/white stripes. I suspect it's 100% cotton because, dang, it loves to wrinkle. Definitely not the tailored looking seersucker in the inspiration blouse.

I began with my bodice block, which has given me sleeve problems. So I traced the armholes from the Lisette Market Blouse (Simplicity 2211) onto my blouse block and also traced the sleeve and sleeve band. For the U-shaped neckline, I used a modified version from a 60s pattern, though any pattern would work.

For the pleated neckline—which I can't imagine doing again without a ruffler—I cut a long, long piece of fabric, sewed it into a tube so it's final width was 1-1/2 and made a series of pleats that measure about 3/8 inch each.

Saturday: My blue and white blouse! Yes, it's wrinkly. It feels like no amount of steam or starch can make it perfectly flat.

With my Ruby Shorts in Denim

A Close-Up:

I waffle between loving this and wondering if it's "my style." I'm not used to puff sleeves, but I do think it does something to balance out my body, and I love it with skinny/slim pants. It feels good to have something blouse-like to wear.

Red
I had this red stretch fabric with a lot of drape and a twill weave, which actually used to be my curtains some cities ago. Lucky for me, I also already had a pleated skirt block from last year's SESA, McCalls 5803.

I have a blue version of this skirt, but the fabric is a bit too heavy and stiff and I sometimes feel costume-y wearing it. Really, for a pretty skirt, it hardly gets any air time. I was hopeful this fabric would revive my interest in this pattern. Here's the drawing:

The EmersonMade skirt has front pockets—rather than side seam pockets—and fewer pleats. So I folded in the pleat closest to the side seam and drafted a pocket in its place. I relied on previous knowledge, but Casey's pocket tutorial is essentially what I did. I widened the waistband to 2-1/4. Rather than a rear zipper, I made it a side invisible zipper.

And here it is:

Leaned against the swiveling closet! I'm falling backwards here.

A side view:

I love this skirt -- it goes with so many things! And the pockets and the waistband. Sigh. In fact, this will swap out the red A-line skirt on my SESA list. I wish it was a wee bit longer, but I'll live.

Some observations on Challenge Ridiculous:

Since this was a time-limited challenge, I gained a few insights on how to speed things up

Think in terms of technical drawings, not pattern photos. How can those basic shapes be adapted? Do you have something from a different pattern that may help you? I'd guess most of us have nearly all basic wardrobe shapes in some form or another in existing patterns
Adapt the pattern on the fabric. I didn't draft new pieces, I drew directly on the fabric before I cut it out. This saved a lot of time.
Cut on the fold. The McCalls front skirt is drafted to be cut in a single, large piece. I folded it to save space on my cutting table.
Don't pin. I just purchased a handy sewing guide and for stable wovens, I either don't need to pin at all, or very rarely.
In that vein, use pattern weights, also saves you from pinning.
Save all seam finishing to the end. I imagine this is a divided issue -- but I wanted to get everything done, so I've saved serging until today.
Sway back? Make a center back seam even if there isn't one. So far, it's the easiest way I've found to make a sway back adjustment.

So that's it. With these two new additions, I think I'll slow down. I've a million things going on otherwise and I'm realizing I'm pretty well equipped for summer, thanks to last year's SESA and these new additions. I'm committed to not having more than I can actually use (I've worn the Rooibos just once! And it hasn't been hot enough for my Ruby shorts at all, boo), so I'll reconsider this year's SESA list next week, cherry picking what I'd really love for the rest of the summer.

Happy Fourth of July, and happy sewing! And it's your last chance to enter the RococoNouveau giveaway to win a handmade, gorgeous collarette! :)

So ... about Me-Made-June

2011-06-30T07:22:00.000-07:00

According to Tasia, the sewaholic who just designed a gorgeous *new* dress, the Canadian postmen are delivering! Canadians & Everyone Else, you can still enter to win a handmade, sultry collarette from RococoNouveau by clicking here. Ends July 4!

On the final day of Me-Made-June, I present photographic proof that I actually participated!

I finally realized that a good tripod can go a long way in easing what is frequently my photography woes, my least favorite part of blogging (the lighting's not right OR my face looks funny OR the hem's not crooked, it's just the way I'm standing, really). Though I've waffled on being regular about it, here's 10 photos I managed to capture, in no particular order.

Me-Made: Knit dress using the Sew U Homestretch dress pattern. I made this last year, but finally chopped off the gathered sleeves. They made me way too Imelda with the heavy fabric

Fabric: Thrifted green knit with white stubs. Sweatshirt weight.

Others: Second-hand cardi, thrifted shoes

Me-Made: Lisette Passport Dress, Simplicity 2209

Fabric: Cotton received as a gift from family, from the Philippines

Others: Thrifted cardi and flats

Me-Made: Colette Rooibos, reimagined

Fabric: Oversized knit striped top, broadcloth from an old muumuu

Others: Clarks flats, second-hand

Me-Made: Colette Rooibos, the mini version (can't wait til it's hot enough to wear this again!)

Fabric: Denim, from stash

Others: Clarks, second hand

Me-Made: 1960s wrap skirt, McCalls 7468

Fabric: Mystery thrifted fabric, definitely polyester

Others: Second hand cardi and top, chopped from my sister's tunic

Me-Made: Sweet and Sassy Skirt from SESA'10, McCalls 5803 (those pleats needs an iron!), ivory blouse using blouse block

Fabric: Both thrifted, the skirt is medium-weight (cotton?), the blouse was made with an oversized polyester blouse.

Others: Thrifted jacket

Me-Made: Knit top using 1950s Simplicity 3263 from SESA '10, and knit cigarette pants from self-drafted pants pattern

Fabric: The knit top was made using a 1980s top I found in my aunt's garage with the tags still on and linebacker shoulder pads, the pants from oversized thrifted pants.

Others: Gray cardi, flats

Me-Made: Khakis using self-drafted pants pattern. I chopped these to capri length since this photo

Fabric: Oversized khakis, thrifted

Others: Second hand cardi and flats

Me-Made: Knit dress, as above. It was a cold morning.

Others: Second hand cardi and scarf

Me-Made: Black blouse with peter pan collar, using blouse block and 1950s Simplicity 3263

Fabric: An oversized Eileen Fisher, Italian linen

Others: Thrifted jeans

I do love this challenge, it forces us to wear our me-made garments: both forgiving them and showing them off. I didn't love all of these outfits, but they each taught me something about sewing and style. I admit to slipping on a few days, June was a rough month in other matters and those days I spent all day sewing, which I think is just as good since I often sew in my underwears (oh, to have a dress form ...)

But two quick observations:

1) Almost everything I wore and sewed with was second-hand, both sourcing my fabrics from discarded clothes or stashes and my non-me-mades from thrift stores, garage sales, or as hand-me-downs. How's that for sustainability?

2) I used several patterns multiple times, which just bolsters my desire to get a set of blocks—or tried and true patterns—that I can really refine and then go wild with. The Blouse Block appears in these 10 photos twice, some variation of Simplicity 3263 three times, the self-drafted pants pattern twice, and the Colette Rooibos twice.

And finally, there's nothing like a month of me-made wearing to realize how much of the closet I actually wear. I've culled a big garbage bag of clothing that will either be donated or reused in a creative way. It feels good; I feel like I can focus when I'm in my closet.

How was your Me-Made-June??

Happy sewing!

First Foray into Blouse Block Territory: Trying to Figure Out Fit & Ease

2011-06-26T22:33:00.000-07:00

Giveaway: One-of-a-kind collarette from RococoNouveau. Ends on July 4. Click there to enter!

On my summer essentials list, I planned to use my newly acquired bodice/blouse block, adapting it to look like Simplicity 3263 from the 1950s. The goal was to have one ivory scoop collar sleeveless blouse and one black with a peter pan collar. The kind of essentials you can use again and again.

Before I show off my less than perfect wares, two things are worth mentioning 1) My waist is not that tiny. Oh, pattern photos, they deceive and 2) I always forget how much work goes into refining a pattern and this'll take time.

For the ivory blouse, I used an oversized thrifted top -- drapey with a bit of sheen. My first introduction to how drapeyness (drapiness? drapability? ha), er, fabric drape, can drastically effect fit. It seems you can go down an entire size if you're using a very drape-y fabric. I also learned the important of edgestitching such fabrics to prevent puckering that occurs at my typical 1/4 inch topstitch. A million little tweaks later:

Nothing much to holler about, it sort of pulls in the wrong places but that might have to do with the fabric. In fact, I may not need/want to use contour darts in drapey fabric again, instead folding in the darts on the pattern before cutting the fabric. The top reflects the 50s neckline and the hem of the original shirt. Don't like the hem, but am afraid if I chop it off it will affect its tuck-ability.

More than anything, I hope this'll be a great layering piece. Here it is with the sweet and sassy skirt from last year (McCalls 5803). Nice with a short jacket or cardi.

For the black blouse, I used a thrifted Eileen Fisher tunic made of Italian linen, though there must be a bit of polyester because it doesn't wrinkle. Just a really beautiful fabric to work with. I traced the peter pan collar from the vintage pattern.

I'm torn on this -- I LOVE the fit of the blouse and the feel of the fabric but I'm of too minds about the collar. Retro? Yes. A wee bit prim? Uh, yes. But I sported this to see X-Men: First Class (Michael Fassbender: I love you) last night with jeans, heels and a red cardi and I was feeling pretty good! It definitely feels like one of those basics that has just a touch of flair. I can imagine sporting this with grotesquely large and colorful fabric flowers.

Above, I'm trying to show off the collar, but black is difficult to photograph. Here's a close-up:

I'm very crooked here, but I suspect the collar is a bit too :0.

The linen, too, ran large, because when I made a muslin incorporating all the changes I made on this linen version, I could barely breathe! In fact, that seems like the incredible benefit of me using the same pattern over and over is that I can start to understand the difference between fabrics & fit. At least now I have two versions of the blouses block -- one very tight fitting (good when adapting for fitted dresses, say) and one more classically fitted for blouses that I can pull over my head or add a button placket to for a classic oxford look.

This first foray into working with my blouse block has got me obsessed with ease, asking myself, How much do you need? How much looks good? In the Colette Patterns Rooibos dress I just made, the bust had a scant 1/2 inch ease. I had to go up a size as it was too tight. For this project, I adopted this bodice block using measurements from Fit For Real People: a standard fitted bodice has about 2 inches in the bust, 1 inch in the waist and 1-1/2 inches in the hip (-ish). And I'll say that conforms pretty nicely to my body.

What I didn't realize is that ease is also dependent on your overall size. The smaller you are, the less ease you need, and vice-versa. I've been thinking it's better to think of ease in terms of percentages—7-10% of your measurements, I've read, is the ease in classically fitted garments.

What about you? For shaped garments, how do you approach ease? Do you like a lot of ease in your blouses/dresses in the bust and waist? Less? How do you strike that balance between looking good and having enough movement in your clothes?

Happy sewing!!

International Giveaway: Handmade Collarette from rococonouveau!

2011-06-22T07:54:00.000-07:00

Wowza! The Blackie O'Reilly collarette from rococonouveau.

Because the world didn't end, a one-of-a-kind, reversible collarette could be yours!

See, the world was supposedly going to end on May 21, and a friend had the forethought to arrange a lovely little shindig by the lake. Croquet and cucumber sandwiches and tea and argyle. That's where I met Kristen Adam, the incredibly talented proprietess of rococonouveau.

Just the week before I had discovered rococonouveau's Etsy storefront, unforgettable for its photos: sexy, creative and totally fun. Her wares? Reversible collarettes with themed names, handmade. Kristen sources her fabrics either locally or from vintage or repurposed fabrics.

Kristen says she "makes stuff." A gal after our own heart, no? Read on for a little Q&A with this new crafty friend and to enter a giveaway for one of these gorgeous wares.

How did you learn to sew?

When I was little my mom sold what she called “wearable art” at the local art fairs in our home town. They were these beautiful pieces like vests, belts, skirts, etc., which were constructed of several pieces of fabric that she randomly cut up and then sewed back together in a kaleidoscope like pattern before assembling the finished piece. I always loved what she did and I think she recognized my interest so she began teaching me how to make my own dresses and things. Once I had a little bit of sewing machine know-how I kind of just ran with it and started DIYing my own patterns.

Candy Striper collarette, Side 1

Tell us about your collarettes. They've got such great names and sultry photos! I imagine you have a lot of fun with them.

The photoshoot might have been the most fun part of this project so far. I thought it would be fun and interesting to give each collar a name and do a little themed shoot with props, giving each piece a distinct personality. And yes, they are pretty saucy as well! One day I threw out the idea that I was looking for friends who were willing to be photographed semi-nude and was shocked by how many of my lady friends were instantly into the idea. So I made a day of it, had them all over with some cocktails and snacks and we basically had an all day super girly dress up party. Getting the overwhelmingly positive reactions from my lady friends when I sent them their finished photos was priceless. They all look so beautiful, I couldn’t be more happy with how that all turned out.

Candy Striper collarette, Side 2

What are various ways you can wear them?

I get this question a lot and I think I’ll be blogging some outfit ideas soon at my brand spanking new website. My current favorite way to wear them is with tank tops or anything that’s strapless. It’s been so hot around here recently, so it’s a great way to spice up any cute summery outfit. Plus, the great thing about the collarettes I currently have up in my shop is that they are reversible, so you have double the options for getting creative with with your outfits!

Gilda collarette, Side 1

Where do you source your fabrics?

I favor using vintage and repurposed materials whenever possible, making a portion of my pieces as unique as they are eco-friendly – an important consideration in these times. Plus, I’ve always loved the challenge of reusing materials and transforming them into something beautiful and new. I have some prints that I’ve been holding onto for years which I found in a little thrift shop in my hometown of Redding, CA. It’s the kind of place that’s owned by a man so old, you don’t know how he’s still standing upright and running a cash register. AKA, my favorite. I also do a lot of buying and altering second-hand dresses and keep all the remnants to use for making things. Other than that my favorite fabric store right now is Fabrix out in the Inner Richmond area of SF. It’s kind of the place where fabrics go when they die, so you have to do some serious treasure hunting. But with a little patience you can really find some gems.

Gilda collarette, Side 2

How would you describe the style of rococonouveau?

For as long as I can remember I’ve felt a particular connection to things of the past: vintage and period fashions, early 20th century classic film, vintage erotica & pinup photography, art deco architecture, art nouveau textiles & jewelry, and the gilded splendour of the rococo era. The goal in all my work on this project is to merge the essence of these core inspirations with the modernity of the 21st century. Thereby preserving the beauty of these bygone styles in a way that is relevant to today’s aesthetics. Hence, the name rococonouveau!

How to Enter the rococonouveau Giveaway:

Kristen is willing to ship internationally -- giveaway open to all!
Leave a comment telling us which collarette you'd like to win—either the Candy Striper OR the Gilda, both pictured above—and how you'd rock it with an outfit.
Provide your email so I can contact you about your fabulous prize.
Giveaway ends at the end of July 4, PST.
Winner will be chosen by a random number generator.

Finally, Kristen has generously offered a 10 percent discount to readers! Here's a discount code for her Etsy shop: TWRFRIENDS, good until July 15!

:)

Summer Essentials: Roiboosi

2011-06-19T20:03:00.000-07:00

Colette Patterns' Rooibos pattern may be the perfect dress for me. The wide neckline, fitted bust, high inset waist and an A-line short skirt adds up to give my small-busted rectangular shape a little curve. Oh, it's love.

So I write to you today with not just one but TWO versions of the Rooibos. My test driving went well and I've serged off the seam allowances and am utterly delighted with it (er, them).

Rooibos, the first:

Sizing: I cut a size 2 for the Bodice and 4 for the skirt but found the 2 a tad too tight and the skirt awfully flared for the denim I was using for this dress. Even with the 2, I made a small bust adjustment, but had to reduce the seam allowances at the bodice to 3/8. I also increased the seam allowance at the bottom of the skirt to an inch, grading back to the original at the hip. And actually that's worth mentioning: This pattern doesn't seem to exactly mimic the model on the Colette Patterns site -- the waist and hip don't appear to be that fitted, but the woman has drool-worthy curves.

Alterations: I redrew the neckline to leave out the mini-collar. I wanted a super-versatile dress for summer that would go with everything. Plain denim it was. Luckily, I had it in my stash!

Zipper: Since there is so much ease in the waist and hip, I really only needed a zipper for a few inches in the bodice. A skirt zipper sufficed.

Hem: I wanted a mini-dress length, so I turned in the raw edge 1/4 inch and took a 2-inch hem. I'm 5'3" and I suspect this would be far too much on a taller woman!

Construction: Seamless. It took me awhile because some steps were new to me (rolling the bodice to attach the facing, creating the pockets etc.) but I'd really say this is an easy pattern with a lot of steps. More time than skill intensive.

A close up, showing off those great darts in the bust and those pockets! Love them. The pockets inside and the facing are salmon-colored. A little peek of color.

Love this low back. Didn't have to do a swayback adjustment because the midriff inset is so high.

So glad I made this one of my summer essentials, I'll wear this tons this season and I suspect with some tights I can wear it throughout the year.

Yes, it's a bit plain, but think of all the colorful cardigans and scarves and jewelry I can wear with it! The denim makes it a bit heavy for a summer dress, but the sleeveless-ness and the mid-thigh length make me feel like I've got a substantial dress that won't fly away on me.

Rooibos, the second

This was a little experiment. It actually started when I was fitting the first Rooibos and the size 4 skirt (yet attached to the bodice) dropped to my waist. I thought, This could make a great skirt! The wheels in my head started turning. How could I make many versions of this pattern without it looking like the same exact dress?

As of late, I've been obsessed with having a striped dress. I thought immediately of Shabby Apple's Eiffel Tower dress and Jessica of Green Apples' version of Kwik Sew 3758. Though I love both those dresses, there were things about them that I'd change if possible, the neckline of the Eiffel Tower dress and the tulip-esque skirt of the Kwik Sew pattern, which does nothing for my shape. So why not take a little whack at pattern alteration and see what I come up with?

The vision: A boatneck striped bodice with 3/4 sleeves and a flared A-line skirt with pockets. I used an oversized, thrifted Old Navy top.

And this muumuu someone gave me for free at the swap meet when I was home in Hawaii visiting family. It's a homemade dress, pinked seams and all.

Since I was using knit for the top, I folded in the bodice darts and traced the pattern. Then I cut it above where the darts would be and added 2 inches.

On the skirt, I subtracted two inches. I then folded in the sides to true the pattern. These two changes allowed the midriff inset to fall at my natural waist.

I used the sleeve pattern from Built By Wendy Homestretch's crewneck pattern, lengthening it.

And this is what I came up with:
Sizing: Using my lessons from the first Rooibos, I used a 4 for the bodice and inset (going up a size) with a small bust adjustment and graded down from 4 to 0 for the skirt pieces.

Alterations: Added sleeves, raised the back neckline.

Zipper: None! Thanks to the knit, I can pull this over my head.

Hem: Finished it using bias tape with a 1/4 inch turn.

Construction: The familiar parts went quickly. Figuring out the knit bodice was the hardest part, since it fits more generously in a knit. The sleeves originally fit perfectly and the stripes were all lined up, but the shoulders kept drooping and I wanted it a little tighter. So a gazillion tweaks later, it's better in a lot of ways, worse off in others. For example, there's some pulling in the bodice, but I can live with it.

Close up:
I really like it. I like the stripes, the length, the sweep of the skirt, the pockets, the inset that feels like a belt across my waist. My only major beef is the black fabric. The muumuu seamstress seems to have used broadcloth, which I like for it's crispness, but it's prone to wrinkling and lint and is VERY see-through. I have a little black slip I can wear under the skirt, but I do wish it was nicer quality fabric, since my pattern-alteration experiment turned out to be wearable. :)

Either way -- reusing old garments and items in my stash -- it's quite a treat. And as much as I'm tempted to go out and buy good quality black fabric and re-do what I just did, this light fabric might be just what I need for summer. Besides, the Rooibos pattern isn't going anywhere and I've just started playing with its possibilities!

To the Rooibos!

Do You Test Drive Your "Finished" Objects?

2011-06-15T09:14:00.000-07:00

(Shhh! Them seams are unfinished!)

I'm running out the door this morning in my "finished" Colette Patterns Rooibos in denim, one of my summer essentials. I'll post more on the construction process later—I had a number of minor alterations though I absolutely adore this pattern, even moreso now that it's made up. I could have a dozen of these.

From the outside, it's not bad, eh? But a peak inside reveals unraveling denim, unfinished seams, an invsible zipper not properly tacked and a gazillion pieces of thread from the construction process. Really, it's enough to drive a proper seamstress crazy.

So why on earth would I wear it out into the world, especially given the fact that I'm the kind of person who worships the finished object so I can move onto the next project? (Just get 'er done!) Well, I'm finally realizing that there's a few things that only become clear to me while wearing and I sometimes find myself filled with regret knowing I've, say, serged off the edges or cut that hem too short. And sometimes it takes a few wears to figure it all out. But it still feels strange to know that rogue threads could dip below the hem or that zipper tape is going to shimmy out of its place. Eek!

But what about you? Do you ever wear your nearly finished objects out into the world? Or perhaps the better question is: How do you know a project is really finished?

Well, I'm off, folks. Let's see how this dress holds up through six miles of biking and long day at the office :)

The Most Luxurious Thing In My Closet: Bias-cut Silk Slip (Folkwear Intimacies, Lingerie from the 1920s/30s)

2011-06-11T12:21:00.000-07:00

In my last post, I mentioned I took a sewing lingerie class. Practically minded, of all the things I thought I would learn to sew, lingerie was at the bottom of the list. But I thought it would be fun to work with delicate fabrics, a way to both push and spoil myself. And, I told myself, I'd been hankering after a slip for light dresses and some sultry bedtime separates for those unbearably hot summer nights when I wish I could move into the freezer.

We were supposed to sew a camisole and panty set, but none of us had time to finish the latter. I traced the slip in Folkwear 219: Intimacies off of one of my classmates, which Folkwear describes as a "treasure chest of lingerie styles from the 1920s and 1930s includes a camisole, tap pants, bias teddy, and slip."

A lovely illustration:
I particularly loved those insets at the bust, it does feel very much from a different time.

Using habotai gold silk and three yards of lace, I made a slip and I'm utterly delighted! It's by far the most luxurious thing I own. The silk is a bit transparent and the sewing's not perfect, but I'm not gonna sweat it.

It's a great pattern, just three pattern pieces in my version. With this project I learned to cut delicate fabrics by placing it between a sort of paper sandwich -- so easy! This is also my first bias cut piece, and I love how it just slinks around the body.

Also, I learned to finish edges with lace. Colette Patterns has a nice tutorial on it here. Here's the scalloped edge of the neckline:

And the lace at the hem:
I did chop off 7 inches from the length—about mid-thigh on me—to be the most versatile. I worry it's a bit too short, but the problem I have with my current slips is that they're too long and too light-colored for my skin tone.

And look! French seams! Also not as hard as I envisioned.

I know this wasn't technically part of my Summer Essentials list, but I'm so pleased to have this in my wardrobe. Definitely one of those projects that gives you energy, opening you up to potential projects you hadn't envisioned before. If I've the time, I'll certainly sew with silk again (so, so lovely), and I am already dreaming of a cami-and-tap pant set. (Wistful.) And now I can sew all those light-colored fabrics into pretty summer dresses!

This has also sent me down the path of obsessing about slips and their usefulness in a modern woman's closet. Do you wear them? What kind of slips do you find most useful for your wardrobe? I'd love to know!

A Video for You Thrifters/Refashioners: Wearing Nothing New

2011-06-07T08:25:00.000-07:00

Yesterday at work, I had to slog through a gazillion of tedious but important tasks that had piled up. TED Talks to the rescue! This particular 5-minute talk made me think of the creativity and originality of fellow thrifters. Enjoy!

A few other gems, perhaps to listen to while you're sewing? These are closer to the typical 20 min TED talks.

A rockin' new cultural shift, Rachel Botsman: The case for collaborative consumption

Isaac Mizrahi on fashion and creativity

Intellectual property in fashion. A bit business-y, but fascinating. Johanna Blakley: Lessons from fashion's free culture

Ever wonder if too much choice is a bad thing? Check out Barry Schwartz on the paradox of choice

El Plan: Summer Essentials 2011

2011-06-06T08:03:00.000-07:00

Hello! It has been a sewing-binge of a weekend. I'll likely have to slow down with a busy week ahead, but it was great to finish my first summer essential: an ivory blouse with a 50s scoop neckline, based on the first pattern below. Photos soon to come! Made a swayback adjustment and chopped off the sleeves on my sweatshirt dress, and I also had a sewing-geek out party with my gal-pal Jessica and a new friend (bobbins + wine + chocolate!), where I traced out the Colette Rooibos for tissue fitting.

Yesterday I took a lingerie class, where I nearly finished a gold habotai silk lace-trimmed slip using Folkwear 219: Intimacies, based on the lingerie styles of the 1920s and 1930s. It was my first time working with silk, border lace, and french seams. Totally luxurious, perfect as a neutral slip under light colored summer dresses! It may just send me down the path of sewing up pretty underthings, so what better time than now to announce my summer essentials list? Though this may change as the summer goes along, it should serve as a beacon, the things I really want to get to.

You'll see, my focus this summer is on using basic blocks and fabrics in my stash. My color palette from my inspiration board:

The Plan:

TEES, TUNICS & BLOUSES

Bodice Block + Vintage Simplicity 3263: Alter neckline to 50s scoop neckline, add peter pan collar (Version 3)

Fabric:
Black linen, thrifted Eileen Fisher Tunic

This way I get the fit of the bodice block with the look of the vintage pattern using something in my stash. I've already created Version 4 using a thrifted ivory blouse. I assure you, my waist does not look as teeny-weeny as the pattern photo.

CLAM DIGGERS & CO.

Trousers/Shorts Block + Simplicity 3580 (Built By Wendy Pattern): Alter block to include slant pockets, front fly and belt loops

Fabric:
Stretch navy denim and/or black canvas, both in stash

Again, this way I get the fit I want with the details I want

SWEET & SASSY SKIRTS

As of now non-existent Skirt Block, based on this skirt handmade by my grandmother in the 60s.

I wore this the other day and realized it fit me near perfect. Just the right sweep and length. I'll be making a pattern out it using Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit by Steffani Lincecum.

Fabric:
Black/Purple/White Michael Kors tunic in linen and/or Red twill

I'm excited about this, making patterns from clothes you already know work!

THE SUNDRESSES

The Knit Dress

Dress block from Built by Wendy Homestretch, altered to look like the Banana Republic one at left (-ish), v-neck, three tiers, possible a center front seam and belt

Fabric:
Lime green jersey

These are exposed raw edges on the skirt -- does any one know if there's a way to cut jersey so it doesn't curl? Perhaps on the bias?

The Mini Dress

Colette Rooibos

Fabric: Dark Denim

Finally! After longing for this pattern, finally making it. Will leave out mini collar. Use of denim inspired by a gorgeous dress from Hetterson.

The Full-skirted Dress

Vintage Simplicity 4491 (1960s)

Fabric:
Options! A black/navy rayon dress, thrifted, with a floral border print. Purple Japanese cotton print. Red and white striped shirting-weight fabric.

This pattern is a recent purchase because, like the "blocks" above these are shapes I can foresee using over and over. Fitted blouse with sleeve or sleeveless, full or straight skirt.

THOSE SUMMER NIGHTS

Sew Serendipity Jacket, something between the two pictured. Hip-length with buttons, no collar

Fabric:
My mom's old chartreuse tablecloth

This book was a recent gift from a friend. I'll likely finish with Hong Kong seams to keep it lightweight.

Also, inspired by Casey's post on Tilly's blog, I'm trying to stay organized this summer! A spreadsheet of the above projects. I need to fill in my notions and get me to a fabric store.

How's your summer essentials going so far?

Making Patterns from Scratch: Worth it?

2011-06-03T07:45:00.000-07:00

My Pattern Project is just a formal way of expressing my interest in drafting and altering patterns. My first skirt was a bust and I'm currently on my third iteration of my self-drafted pants pattern (saved by my tried-and-true BurdaStyle Ruby Shorts pattern). Despite the drafting woes, I love the drafting itself. This is probably largely because there's nothing more in the sewing process I hate than cutting out existing patterns and then fiddling endlessly with fit. Drawing and dreaming of possibility is much more up my alley.

Problem? Even if I draft my own patterns, I'm still fiddling endlessly with fit. So I've been thinking:Is this the best way to for home seamstress to go about either 1) tackling fit and 2) creating basic blocks for a wardrobe?

What I'm realizing is that though I find the drafting process fun, what I really want are great basic patterns I can utilize over and over and the knowledge of how to alter them for incredible variation. I came upon these articles that made me think I'm on right track.

Making Patterns vs. Altering Patterns

From "How We Make Patterns in Real Life"

Drafting a basic fitting shell ("sloper” to home sewers) is just a whole lot of work. In real life, there’s faster ways to get there. Beginners feel as though they have to earn their stripes the hard way, that they have to put a lot of work into drafting a basic fitting shell as tho it were a rite of passage or something. It’s amazing the work they put into it and what for? They still end up with a jizillion iteration cycles. Bummer.

In real life, we don’t draft each design from zero and no, we don’t use home patterns. Nor slopers or fitting shells. We use blocks of existing patterns we’ve made with proven performance.

At Sew-4-Fun, she reflects 10-years-later on her frustrating efforts to learn pattern drafting.

I felt like I was getting nowhere, even though I was learning a lot. It just didn't feel like it because it wasn't helping me to better fit my patterns. That came much later, when I went back to the fitting books. Suddenly things I didn't understand previously, made sense, because I now understood how a pattern was drafted.

What do I do today? I buy commercial patterns and alter them, and have the utmost respect for pattern makers. :) They have years of experience that I simply don't have the time to learn.

IMHO pattern drafting is not a quick fix for fit issues. Yes it will help you in the long run but it's a long journey. Building a pattern from the ground up introduces a new set of issues you have to learn to conquer. It's like taking fifty steps back to move one step forward. In short, if all you want to do is fix your fit issues then learn how to alter an already drafted pattern. Trust me, it's far easier. :)

I'm sold. I may try my hand at pattern drafting from scratch on very simple items or as I get more sophisticated. In the meantime, my focus is on using my books (the Sew U series by Wendy Mullin, Design-It-Yourself Clothes by Cal Patch) to alter patterns and use Fit for Real People to learn to fit them.

Blocks

I have a feeling this is going to be the Summer of the Block. I mentioned that I took a class on creating a basic bodice block and in a few weeks, how to adapt that bodice to make various blouses and dresses. Then I'll take another on creating a trouser block (a bit indulgent, since i sort of have one already, but I wear soooo many pants, that I want the pro-fitting help). According to the teacher, there's these basic blocks:

Woven Bodice Block
Woven Skirt Block
Woven Trouser Block
Knit Bodice Block
Knit Skirt Bodice Block
Knit Legging Block

Without realizing it, I've been working with some blocks and I turn to them again and again. Take the Ruby Shorts pattern, which I first struggled through with Lisette of What Would Nancy Drew Wear?'s sew-along last summer:

Two Rubys, my stand-in "Trouser Block"

As I struggled with fitting on my self-drafted pants pattern, I turned to the Ruby pattern to help with fit. What an amazing thing to have in my arsenal! Version 1 was a bust, Version 2 is a black knit pant that I wear all the time, and Version 3 I just finished, tweaking the pattern slightly. That's four garments from one pattern.

Knit Bodice and Skirt Block

I've also used the Sew U Homestretch dress twice, and dream of it often. With a separate bodice and skirt, I made these two iterations. Version 1 is a sleeveless full-skirted version in a lightweight knit for summer. Version 2 is in a sweatshirt knit with puff sleeves and a slim skirt for fall.

I also use the book's Crewneck pattern as the block for all my t-shirts.

How incredible would it be to have all these basic blocks and to either forgo store-bought patterns altogether (designing!) OR having these "two-dimensional dress forms" as I've heard them called, to compare against each new pattern you try, thereby saving you lots of time with fit?

So that's where I'm at: Rather than drafting from scratch, I'm speeding up to get basic blocks —through classes and existing patterns—and using them again and again.

But what about you? Do you make your own patterns? Why or why not? Or do you have "Blocks" or TNTs that serve you again and again? Do you tend to alter the existing block for the style you want or do you use it as a guide to fit another pattern? I'd love to hear your thoughts!

I've got my first blouse from a bodice block nearly ready to share with you. Til then, happy sewing!

Shabby Apple Winner!

2011-06-02T07:40:00.000-07:00

Thanks to our handy random number generator, which picked #6, the Cameo "Lost in Wonderland" necklace from Shabby Apple goes to Natalie Jane of Natalie's Sentiments! Congratulations!

Thanks all for entering. Don't forget about the 10 percent discount, which expires the last week of June. Shabby Apple has generously offered readers a 10% off coupon. Enter "wardrobereimagined10off" at checkout.

And fret not, there's another fabulous giveaway on the horizon, featuring new friend and fellow seamstress RococoNouveau. Stay tuned!

Inspiration Board: Summer Essentials Sew-Along

2011-05-31T20:14:00.001-07:00

Join the Summer Essentials Sew-Along and the Flickr Group!

I recently wrote about different approaches to sew-alongs that you could incorporate into the Summer Essentials Sew-Along. Like others, I'm doing a bit of mish-mash: Some stash-bustin', some vintage pattern sewing, but I was totally taken with the approach of Colette Patterns Spring Palette challenge and whipped up this inspiration board using Polyvore:

This is my attempt to 1) use fabrics in my stash 2) create a story around those colors and 3) find a balance between neutrals and distinctive colors 'cause what's summer without a little wow?

For my palette I've selected Purple, Red, Green (lime & chartreuse), Ivory and Navy/Black. My skin tone looks better in deep colors like purple and red and I recently procured two gorgeous bits of green fabric. I'll balance out these vibrant pieces with two neutrals, cream and navy.

When I think of these colors, I think of the town where I grew up. Most people think of islands and think of the near-white sand, the aquamarine of the ocean. I grew up, however, in a valley between two volcanic ranges, where rain was common. Waxy-red anthuriums, apple banana trees whose fruit make the sweetest lumpia and bread, purple orchids that hung from plumeria trees. Everything nearly overripe, overgrown: nature taking its course.

With these colors, I'd like to sew the kind of clothes that are both laid back and feminine with the clean lines of my fave fashion decade, the 60s. The kind of threads that make you look good without being overdressed, excellent in high heels or slippers. Not so precious that I can't get dirty.

I've got my list of individual essentials but I'm still compiling the images. With the Poolside Pretty covered last year plus two handmade BurdaStyle Ruby Shorts, it looks like this summer may be all about dresses and blouses and skirts!

Can't you see it? An eggplant-purple dress, an anthurium-red skirt and a perfectly fitting ivory blouse? Or how about a tiered lime green knit dress, navy shorts, and a lightweight chartreuse jacket that can be thrown over anything? Have I mentioned the denim mini dress with pockets??

Oh my. So much sewing. You'll have to remind me that five-ish garments was my idea. :)

You can join the sew-along at any time, but those of you who are reading: Welcome, welcome!!

Khakis for June

2011-05-30T10:34:00.001-07:00

This is how I spent the long weekend. The boy and I went to the park and I fell asleep in the grass as he read. A lovely day by the lake, watching dogs chase around geese.

I'd mentioned that I was working on a new iteration of my self-drafted pants pattern using some thrifted oversized khakis. Many a tweak later, here they are:

The tricky part was getting as slim a fit as I could using non-stretchy material, leaving enough ease in the thigh. The inside's not stellar with all the back and forth, and the waistband's just reattached from the original and taken in. Since it was partially based on the BurdaStyle Ruby Shorts pattern, which has a button side opening, these pants have a side zipper, also recycled from the original.

These may be my own version of fast-fashion: The sewing quality's not nice enough to hold onto after the season, but they served as yet another muslin in my aim to get slim-fitting ankle-length pants. They'll also serve me well for Me-Made-June. :)

For what it's worth, I think I'm getting closer to the right fit, though I'm tempted to take a create-a-trouser-block class. Jessica of A Yen for Craft and I took a create-a-bodice-block class today and it was so helpful and fun! It feels great to have a pattern that's been professionally fit and know I can use it over and over. Either way, in my next pants-pattern iteration, I'd like to get to the point where I can add a front-fly, pockets and belt loops, as that's how I typically like to wear pants.

Here's to Me-Made-June!

Approaches to Sew-Alongs and Challenges: Inspiration for Summer Sewing

2011-05-27T08:25:00.000-07:00

Join the Summer Essentials Sew-Along and the Flickr Group!

U.S. Readers: Win a Cameo Necklace from Shabby Apple. Giveaway closes on May 31st!

Hi all! Like many, I'll be participating in Zoe's Me Made June, and I've mentioned that the Summer Essentials Sew-Along accommodates other challenges and sew-alongs because it's so flexible.

I was new to the blogosphere when I created SESA last year so perhaps "challenge" is a better way of talking about it. Sew-alongs are typically when folks sew the same garment together and a challenge seems to be a motivational way to approach a self-built plan. But I do like sew-along since we are sewing together, and challenge feels like it's supposed to be difficult when the point is motivation and inspiration.

Either way, I wanted to share with you three recent approaches to sewing challenges I've thought were just brilliant, in hopes they may inspire you while you're coming up with your own list of 5-ish essentials. Many go over five, some clock in with less, hence the "ish." Alessa created a Flickr thread to share your list whenever you're ready!

Here they go:

The Colette Patterns Spring Palette Challenge

This is such a great way to approach a sewing challenge, with enough guidance and enough freedom to create community. In this opening post, Colette maven Sarai lays out the idea:

The idea is very simple. You choose an inspiring palette for Spring, then you sew a tiny wardrobe based on that palette. You choose the color palette, the number of colors, and the pieces you sew. The palette can be based around fabrics you already have (so you can use what you have), or you can do something new.
Week One: Define your challenge. Gather inspiration, make inspiration boards, review fabric choices, pick your palette, and decide how many garments you’d like to sew from the palette.
Week Two: Plan your projects. Choose your patterns, sketch out your ideas, and make a plan.
Weeks Three through Ten: Sew! Make your mini Spring wardrobe, and share your progress with everyone else.

I loved the focus on color and creating an inspiration board that added a cohesiveness to sewing plans. You can view all the inspiration palettes here.

Looking at them, you can see each sewer has a specific style, an ethos if you will, that drives all of their individual projects. And the great thing is, you could use fabrics in your stash and create a sense of story around them. I may use a similar approach for SESA this year, and I understand Colette may do another in the fall.

Closing the Gaps Project
Thanks to SESA cohort, Sarah, I discovered Vintage Girl's Closing the Gaps Project. Here's a snippet about it:

A full closet, but still nothing to wear. Sound familiar? Since cleaning out my closet, the outfits I have for the summer and me-made-June clothes, are limited. I realized I had only done half of the job of cleaning out my closet. Now it was time to really look through my wardrobe and find the gaps. Gaps are those little annoying reminders that occur when you get dressed. It's when you realize that you don't have a blouse to go with that really great skirt.

Readers know that I'm I'll about having a gap-free closet, where the items within it serve you over and over. It's idealistic, but it's something I learned through the first Me-Made-May and that I brought into SESA, asking the question: What could I really use this summer? What garments would serve me again and again? The categories of summer wear are just ways to get you thinking about what you have and what you need.

The Closing the Gaps project is similar, thinking about where the gaps are and how you can fill them.

Sewing Through The Decades

From Debi of My Happy Sewing Place and Sarah of Rhinestones & Telephones. Debi explains it in this January post:

The basic thought is to challenge yourself to explore different time periods (which can be three years in one decade—1943, 1944, 1945) or several patterns across several decades (50’s, 60’s, 70’s). You can sew blouses, skirts, dresses, trousers…whatever you want! It will be fun to share our experiences in sewing from different time periods. The patterns can span both vintage and modern years.

I'll be the first to admit that I've had a love-hate relationship with vintage patterns. On one hand, I love them: they're gorgeous. On the other, they're hard. For a long time I lacked the sewing skills to approach them, as instructions are spare. And also, some styles can by iffy on me, who tends toward contemporary wear.

But now that I'm a better sewer, I'm ready to approach vintage again. What is it about these patterns that make me giddy, give me some wonderful sense of accomplishment? Perhaps it's the little details and the fit that differ from modern patterns. Perhaps it's the feeling that we have complete access to the history of fashion through our sewing machines.

This is a great approach because it gives you the opportunity to try your hand at vintage. I'm definitely going to up my vintage sewing this summer.

And more!

The approaches are endless. You could:

Go an eco-friendly route and only sew with organic, natural fibers or use only reclaimed fabrics
Do a self-drafted summer, where you take a whack at pattern drafting
Do a stash-bustin' summer where you only use fabrics and patterns in your stash
Create a mini-wardrobe for a summer vacation

It's entirely up to you, and I can't wait to see what you come up with. I'm working on my essentials list!

More ideas and approaches? Please share them! And as always, happy sewing.

Cameo: Shabby Apple Love + A Necklace Giveaway

2011-05-26T08:56:00.000-07:00

I'm so excited about the old and new folks who are joining the Summer Essentials Sew-Along. Wander on over to the Flickr group and introduce yourself! I am already getting a number of questions about the sew-along, but know there's no "rules" just suggestions to inspire you to sew summer loveliness. The larger point is community, but the nitty gritty details are up to you! :)

Like my SESA partner-in-crime, Sarah, whose hosting a fabulous Shabby Apple dress give-away on her blog, today I'm offering you a lovely piece of jewelry from Shabby Apple's online store. I heard rumblings about Shabby Apple in the blogosphere and I've spent many an hour oogling their dresses. You can even shop by body type!

Dresses from Shabby Apple

I'm particularly smitten with this dress, Carousel:
A blue wrap dress, so elegant, so versatile. Sigh.
Ah! Gamine alert! Lovely stripes and an a-line skirt (with pockets!) that'll make it look like you've got Audrey Hepburn's teeny waist.

If I wasn't on clothing ration, I just made be bankrupt. Anyhow, onto the exciting stuff: The jewelry.

I wanted to share some lovelies from their online store with you, finishing up with the giveaway piece.

Shabby Apple bracelets

Shabby Apple Rings (nothing like a cocktail ring to add pizazz to an outfit!):

(Ali interjection: Santa? I've been good this year.)

There really is a range of styles, many of which will be lovely for the summer: Peach bracelets and turquoise necklaces and big, fat yellow rings. Plus a few basic pieces that are seasonless.

For the giveaway, I selected this necklace, "Lost in Wonderland," retailing at $52 for one lucky reader.

There's something so romantic about this piece, so classically feminine and timeless. I hope you like it. Imagine it over a billowing sun dress at a summer picnic, or over a red cocktail dress at night. A statement piece that will serve you from season to season.

To win this green floral cameo necklace from Shabby Apple, please leave me a comment with your name and email address and answer the following question: How do you use jewelry in your wardrobe? I'm pretty basic: a pair of silver earrings and my silver ring, but I adore women who use jewelry to add personality to their outfits! Share your secrets with me! ;) Another way to answer this question: What's your favorite piece of jewelry and why?

The giveaway closes on the eve of the Summer Essentials Sew-Along: May 31st at 11:59 pm PST. Entries are limited to U.S. Addresses (sorry!). Winner will be selected by a random number generator.

Giveaway or no, if you've got a Shabby Apple yen, Shabby Apple has generously offered readers a 10% off coupon. Enter "wardrobereimagined10off" at checkout. Coupon will expire in a month.

Check out Shabby Apple on Facebook where you'll hear about special promotions and exclusive discounts. Tweeter? You can find Shabby Apple on Twitter, too.

Good luck!

It's that time again! Summer Essentials Sew-Along

2011-05-25T08:46:00.000-07:00

Sewing last summer was a dream. I had begun to sew my own clothes and happened into this wonderful blogging community and so enjoyed Zoe's first Me-Made-May that I wanted to continue to be part of this community. The first Summer Essentials Sew-Along was born. The idea was simple: Make five-ish things that you'd rather not live without this summer.

To say I was blown away by the response is an understatement. 70 members from across the globe uploaded nearly 330 images into last year's Flickr group (find a link to our *new* one below) of their in-progress and finished stylin' summer wears. For me, these women—you—brought homemade to a whole new level, creating garments that made the gamine-in-me weak in the knees.

Some used vintage patterns, others self-drafted patterns. Some of us attacked the very thing we were afraid of. For me, that was the retro-inspired swimsuit, BurdsStyle's Alison. And there was so much diversity in the styles, giving me the courage to try new things. Though I only committed to 5-ish garments, I was never so productive: I whipped up 14 garments. Several were duds, but all created with the incredible rallying of this community and it made me a better sewer.

So what do you say? Can we do this again? As my life's changed considerably since last year, I've recruited the incredible and talented Sarah of Rhinestones and Telephones outside of Toronto (don't we all love Canadians?) and Alessa of Farben-freude of Berlin (I've a yen for that city!) as co-hosts. Sarah is brilliant at mixing her sewing plans with the larger community—stay tuned for what she has in store for us this summer! And Alessa and I attacked knits last summer and she's been rockin' the Colette Crepe like no one's business. Please join us. :)

Below you'll find out about the sew-along, badges for your blog and a link to the Flickr group that's the virtual home of this year's Summer Essentials Sew-Along.

ABOUT THE SEW-ALONG

In an effort to be as laid back as summer heat inspires, the Summer Essentials Sew-Along asks participants to sew five(-ish) warm-weather friendly pieces by August(-ish), ‘cause wouldn’t you rather spend August looking fabulous in your homemade threads? The goal: Stock your closet with quality summer basics. The benefit: A group of sewers who will encourage and inspire you, not to mention talk you off the ledge when you need it!

To me, there are six categories of summer wear. Feel free to add to this, but this is just to start us thinking of what you need/want.

Poolside Pretties: Anything that cools or dries you off when there’s lots of sun and water around. One and two-piece swimsuits, swimsuit cover-ups, surf shorts, sun hats, oh my! One versatile swimsuit cover-up I find lovely is a terry cloth dress. Double-duty, that’s what I’m talking about.

Clam Diggers & Co.: Bifurcated bottoms of every style and length, from flowing linen pants to short-shorts and all the inbetweens—clam diggers, pedal pushers, Bermuda shorts, etc.

Sweet & Sassy Skirts: Prints and solids, short and long, low-slung and high-waisted. But most of all: Airy, flirty, flattering.

The Sundress: Need I say more? To me, the perfect sun dress strikes that cord between casual and elegant—arms and collarbones, looking good barefoot or high-heeled. It’s something you can wear to both a barbecue and a summer wedding.

Tees, Tunics & Blouses: Yes, please! I’m finally understanding the worth of blouses as they also strike that balance between casual/formal, totally versatile. I’m also thinking mini-dresses that do triple duty as tunics, dresses and cover-ups.

Those Summer Nights: Pullovers, cardis and hoodies may be the last thing you’re thinking of with the mercury rising, but there’s those cool summer nights, not to mention every last establishment with the air con blasting. Or: for those of you where thunderstorms are a daily summer experience, a lightweight trench?

BADGES FOR YOUR BLOG

Thanks, Sarah, for creating these!

OUR FABULOUS FLICKR GROUP
http://www.flickr.com/groups/summeressentialssewalong2011/

(Thanks, Alessa, for setting it up!)

We'll be using this Flickr group to post photos of our work this summer! Join us and introduce yourself and your blog in the discussion forum.

Closer to June 1st, we'll open a thread for our summer essentials plans. It's a great way to get inspiration for projects!

Note: This sew-along will accommodate your other sew-alongs and challenges nicely. Later this week, I'll be posting about inspiring approaches to sew-alongs that you can use in the Summer Essentials as well.

And stay tuned for a jewelry giveaway!

To sewing, to summer.

Uniform Project LGD: The End

2011-05-23T08:31:00.000-07:00

It's time to move on from this gray wool that has consumed me for months. Summer's on the horizon and I'm dreaming of summer sewing and this dress giveaway at Rhinestones & Telephones and this handmade top giveaway from L'Atelier. So the epic Uniform Project LGD is finally moving into the "finished" pile. Hallelujah.

I can't say I'm more pleased with it, but I will wear it more often. I loved the concept of the original dress, and perhaps when I've forgotten this whole debacle and have gotten better at pattern drafting, I can return to it. Or maybe I just need to 'fess up that this wasn't a great dress for my body.

So the changes, again: I exposed the button placket, removed the pleat from the rear (making it non-reversible), and I cut off the jewel-neckline. As of now, it fits like a short-sleeved mid-thigh jacket or a mini dress.

Here it is open. Not a great photo, but I can imagine this will be very useful to wear over skirts and dresses, like all those faboo illustrations on the 60s patterns I covet.

The neckline took the longest, taking on many iterations. I only had so much fabric left and there was a good deal of gaping. I made two shoulder(y) pleats to take in the gaping and made this collar inspired by the Lisette Passport Jacket. (Forgive the wrinkles!)

Definitely not a ruffle kind of girl, but there's something about that jacket that made me a believer. And I couldn't get it to lay flat on this dress except when I sewed it with the raw edges exposed and I kind of liked it. It gives a very staid dress a little more personality.

In other news: My sewing nook has moved again, this time to the bedroom. I'm working on my self-drafted pants pattern to make ankle-length khakis for summer and I've got three classes on the horizon at Stonemountain and Daugther: Drafting a Bodice, Lingerie, and Adapting a Bodice Block.

Happy sewing, all! :)

Fast Fashion, My Sister's Closet, and Other Binges

2011-05-20T16:17:00.000-07:00

So you might remember that when I was packing my suitcase to visit my family last month, I only stuffed it one-third full. It's because when I'm ready to return, I'm inevitably sitting on my suitcase with all my weight, trying to close it. Like this:

I just accrue stuff when I'm with my family. More than anything it's a testament to the fact that my day-to-day living, an ocean away, is fairly mindful. I rarely shop retail, and now, with my Fashion on the Ration challenge, am getting very good at being mindful even about my thrift store and fabric purchases. Even so, Month 3 into the challenge and I feel like I've been on a binge.

Exhibit 1: When you have a fast-fashion loving sister who's your size

I approached her giveaway pile after two friends had picked through it and I only took 1/3 of what was there. This girl can shop. I can't blame her, she does work in retail and gets a discount on most of her clothes. And it's been exciting to see her begin to approach her wardrobe with a level of mindfulness about her body. Though we have the same bust size, she's pear-shaped and is beginning to think about what cuts flatter her.

Exhibit 2: ... And she also likes to buy you stuff

My sister bought me two items for my birthday, a lovely beaded cardigan at The Gap and these lovely heels from the Clark's outlet.

Exhibit 3: The perfect cardigan

I went into this challenge thinking about investing in a few things I'd wear over and over. The shoes from my sister above have already received a great deal of use—the perfect heel for summer. And then I found this cardigan at the Banana Republic outlet, slim fitting, hip-length with a retro-feel from a slightly scalloped edge. I've also worn this plenty. Coupons spent: 5

Exhibit 4: Don't you forget about me

When I was home, I rediscovered some items I received free at the flea market, including a ready to wear skirt and three items that I can cut up for fabric. This is what I couldn't fit in the suitcase last visit but managed to squeeze them in this time.

Exhibit 5: The internets if full of beautiful, generous sewing bloggers

I was luck enough to win this green jersey from the Sewing Princess giveaway. It's such a gorgeous color and every hour I change my plans for it, but it will be a knit dress for summer.

Exhibit 6: Even the classics get passed on

No photo here, but I also took a trip and saw my Aunt the weekend after I returned home. She received a stack of fine clothing from my cousin, who got it from the mother of one of her students (four times removed). What luck!

There was a stack of cashmere tops I couldn't part with. These were all classic pieces that I felt could last me forever: two Ralph Lauren cashmere boatneck tanks in cream and navy and two special occasion wool sweaters that I likely won't wear often, but will be perfect those few times a year I need to attend a wedding etc.

In all, it's just a whole lotta stuff. So what's the grand tally?

Garments in ready-to-wear condition acquired:

Tops 10

Cardigans 2

Dresses 1

Bottoms 1

Skirt 1

Shoes 1

Garments that can be either repaired for wear or can be cut up for fabric: 4

Total: 20

Wow! And 19 of them were free-to-me. I actually think this is why I'm so dead set on regularly purging your closet because I often find myself on the receiving end of clothing generosity and thus an excess of clothes. For a moment I felt bad, that I was going against the very thing I had set out to do this year: to have more with less.

But I'll admit that I feel playful: These are clothes that I can experiment with and pass on to better owners if they no longer serve me after this season. For the gems I keep, they will become an integral part of my wardrobe. It's a low investment way to test out my style hypotheses.

But what about you? How do you work the grab-bag of giveaway clothes into your personal style? And how do you keep your closet in check?

Fashion on the Ration check-in: 5 coupons spent for cardigan, current tally 55 coupons.

A Sixties Wrap Skirt and a Mod-esque Proposal for June

2011-05-15T19:52:00.000-07:00

"Vintage style is the ultimate test of how well you know yourself, because there is a lot less guidance out there for buying vintage than there is for buying new clothes or current trends. That said, creating a great look using vintage clothes is the ultimate coup ... It's the fact that you found it, you chose it, you decided it was right for you, and most exciting is that it is highly unlikely that anyone else will ever have the same thing."

—Amanda Brooks, I Love Your Style

Hello friends! Though I've got a handful of half-written posts and comments to catch up with due to Blogger unfriendliness, I've got a Finished Object on my hands and couldn't wait to share it with you!

I've been thinking a lot lately about style. There are so many style guides out there, many of which suggest you "pick a decade" or "find your decade." While I think something as complex as your "personal style" can't be subsumed into a singular decade, I love the idea of understanding what decades in style you're attracted to and why.

I know there are many different approaches to this. Some people fall full tilt into a decade, pin curls and all. Others hopscotch through decades, with a wardrobe that is as varied as it is fun. Some choose the decade based on their body shape. I'm more staid: I'm a contemporary gal interested in incorporating pieces that are evocative of my preferred eras into my daily life.

For my time and money, it's the Sixties. Part of this might be the infectious Mad Men Madness, but I was one of those pre-teen Audrey Hepburn worshippers. And between the classic American elite looks of Jacqueline Kennedy, Brigette Bardot's bombshell-ness, and Twiggy and all that leg, the era feels like it can encapsulate my ideal wardrobe. Classic, slim fitting looks that never go out of style. And in the late 1960s, it's the youthful, more drapey clothes that hint to the 70s-to-come. Classy without being matronly, casual without being pre-pubescent.

Distinguishing between decades has come from logging many an hour drooling over patterns online. Though I always come back to the late 1960s and early 1970s, here's a gem from the early 60s:

Basic but lovely. Can't you imagine floating stylishly through your days with similar wears?

So seeking a quick and fun project, I pulled out this mid-1960s skirt pattern from my stash and cut up a bit of polyster I scored at a thrift store with Jessica from A Yen for Craft. I'm learning to love these colors: khaki, beige and taupe. They play nicely with so much of my closet.

McCalls 7498, I selected view "B," the blue wrap skirt pictured in the pattern. It was such a dream to sew. Everything fit together. It was also so easy that I didn't feel exhausted during the final stages. This is my first piece where the waistband doesn't look embarrassingly awful on this inside and I'm learning how to use the blind hem stitch on my machine -- a major game changer. Love it.

I left off the pockets and cut the skirt by 5-3/8 inches, both of which are preferences for my frame. I am 5'4" and nearly always wear flats so the longer and more cluttered the skirt, the shorter I look.

I was dubious about the wrap, but I love it. A full skirt makes me feel so feminine and that little bow gives it a bit o' flair. Here's the front.

And the side, with a buttonhole for one of the ties to come through. Not perfect, but I did do a sway back adjustment.

With Me-Made-June on the horizon, I've been thinking about making a mini-Sixties-inspired wardrobe. Beginning with this beige skirt, if I add a pair of slim ankle-length khakis, an A-line navy dress with a centerpiece pleat, a denim mini dress, a peter pan blouse and a boxy statement jacket, I think I could get through June in style. Then, with great basics completed, it's color, color, color.

'I, Ali of The Wardrobe, Reimagined, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-June '11. I endeavour to wear at least one me-made garment each day for the duration of June 2011'

What's your decade?

Why I'm Afraid of Good Fabric

2011-05-09T08:29:00.000-07:00

I've been told that I'm the kind of person who, upon buying a new car, would need to key a long gash in the side of it. Otherwise, I'd obsessively fret over its newness, the pristine nature of the paint job, it's fresh-off-the-lot condition.

And that goes for all new things, at least all new things that appear beyond the wear and tear of daily living. Over the years, folks have given me beautiful things as presents: leather journal covers, printed notebooks, top-of-the-line pens. And I never use them. Ever. Far too precious.

Enter my song-and-dance about my Fashion on the Ration project, where this year I hope to learn to embrace quality over quantity. Why not have fewer, higher quality items that I wear often? The whole enterprise sounds reasonable and a little luxurious, no?

I tackled my first project this year, the Uniform Project Little Gray Dress, with this gusto. The first thing I needed to do was procure quality fabric. Last year I would've scavenged for fabric in thrift stores or dirt-cheap fabric stores where nothing is labeled. But the quality-me went out to three stores and finally bought the nicest gray wool I could find.

I fantasized about how wonderful it would feel to have one well-made, super-versatile dress in quality fabric. The perfect dress. I took it to the laundromat, watched as it circled around the dryer to steam it. I made two muslins and I even checked the grainlines when cutting. Very not-typical-me behavior.

And guess what? It was a bust. And I was angry for weeks. So much damn work for nothing.

There's a lot of things about this project that went wrong beyond the fabric, but what I realized in hindsight is: There was no fun in this at all.

In my pursuit of quality, I had overlooked the very thing I love about sewing: the process. On my sewing table, process is more akin to thrill of invention and luck (read: winging it) than a precise scientific experiment done under controlled conditions. I've been able to learn to sew by screwing up a lot and I've allowed myself to screw up by using fabric that was suitable, but far from precious.

Quality fabric = Perfectionist tendencies = Obsession with the Finished Object = Fear of Screwing Up = No Winging It and Forgiving Myself Along the Way = A Really Bad Time

That pretty much sums it up for me.

So what happened with the Uniform Project LGD? Well after a few weeks, I decided that my precious, unworn finished object was better off as an imperfect worn object, and even, no object at all if I botched it beyond repair.

I threw it in the wash. It's wool, but whatever, it's my wool. I hated the invisible button placket, I wanted the fit closer to my body, I gave up on my finished-object-fantasy: A reversible dress. I ripped a whole lotta threads. I exposed the button placket, removed the rear pleat, massively changed the shape of the back and (badly) snipped the neckline and am not sure how to fix it.

Here's where it is now:

Once I figure out how to finish the neckline (bias tape? a peter pan collar? a tie? a ruffled collar like on the Passport jacket?) and fix some of the rippling on the re-attached center right, this baby's ready to go. I actually wore it to work last week as a short-sleeve coat—perfect for this time of year!—and just covered the neckline with a scarf. And guess what? I believed I could fall in love with it.

I don't think this means I've given up on my desire for quality things, but it does mean I need to get over the fear that bubbles up in me when I'm in pursuit of perfection, when I'm fixated on the finished object. I think I love scavenging for fabrics at thrift stores and re-working existing clothes so much because that expectation is removed, the barrier to entry lowered. I'm trying to give new life to something discarded. If I can, great. If not, neither the unused object or my pocketbook are worse off.

Possibly on the sewing table: A Colette Rooibos from a dark denim in my stash that cost me $1/yard, a shift dress using a Built By Wendy pattern using a navy stretch twill that I thrifted, a beige skirt from a 40s pattern with thrifted fabric, and finally a Sewaholic Pendrell for my sister using a pretty $1/yard floral chiffon in my stash. It changes by the day, but all of these projects feel ultimately do-able, with non-precious but lovely fabrics, with either easy or beautifully explained patterns: A process that excites me.

But what about you? How do you approach good fabric? Or more importantly, how do you keep the sewing process fun?

Happy sewing all!

Packing Orders #1: Family Trip

2011-04-23T06:57:00.000-07:00

A super-quick post because I'm out the door for a family visit, back in town for a hot second, then out the door again. But it's made me think a lot about what's in my suitcase.

One of my former colleagues is in the process of creating an amazing woman's travel bag based on her grandmother's cosmetology bag from the 1930s or 1940s and we've talked a lot about how you pack. And guess what? It's not so much about how you pack, but how many versatile items you have in your wardrobe.

The suitcase may be the first place to start for folks like me who are obsessed with accruing Tried-in-Trues to make an everyday wardrobe easy-peasy. I mean, don't we all want to look fabulous when we're out of town? (Moreso, I'd argue, than on our home turf.) But there's the issue of size and weight. So you need to make choices.

So here's what I'm throwing in my suitcase for an 8-day trip. It's a bit like cheating 'cause it's home and I can always raid my sister's (much younger) closet in a fit of desperation. Plus there's no inclement weather to deal with. That said, I only want to pack 1/3 of a carry-on so I can bring things back with me. This covers every day wear, sleeping, working out and the beach.

Occasion: Family visit
Style: Very Casual, Beach-y
Weather: Tropical, but chilly enough at night to warrant socks and sweaters

Bottoms
One pair skinny jeans, dark denim (thrift shop, 1 year old)
One slim capris, blue (hand-me-down, 1 year old)
One pair Ruby shorts, denim with red buttons (handmade, 1 year old)
One full knit skirt, black (retail, 5 years old)
One sweatpants, to sweat and sleep in (hand-me-down, 1 year old)

Tops
One tank with spaghetti straps and gathering at bust, black (retail, 1 year old)
One tee, kimono sleeve with scoop neck, gray (handmade, 1 day old)
One batwing knit top, doubles as sweater, purple and blue (garage sale, 3 months old)
One v-neck tee, heather blue, to sweat and sleep in (hand-me-down, 1 year old)

Dresses
Knit dress with surplice top, orange and multi-colored (thrift store, 1 month old)

Etc
One cashmere Ann Taylor cardigan, black (eBay, 6 months old)
One mustard colored cardigan (garage sale, 3 months old)
One-piece swimsuit, Alison pattern (handmade, 1 year old)

Shoes
Flats, gold, (thrift, 1 year old)
Sports-y shoe, J-41s (retail, 2 years old)
Slippers (retail, 1 year old)

Quick Snapshot
16 items:
3 handmade
3 hand-me-downs
4 retail
6 thrifted

9 of the 16 are 1 year old
Mostly knits

TNTs: Slim leg bottoms, black cardigan, shoes and cardigan that provide contrast (mustard/gold), black tank

Lesson from this mini-wardrobe?: I largely dress in classically cut neutrals and use bits of color to make it interesting. I actually made a gray t-shirt in a frenzy last night because I felt that was one thing missing from my wardrobe: A perfect casual piece.

What's in your suitcase? And what does it tell you about your style?

Life Changes: The Pared-Down Closet and A Two Wheeler

2011-04-17T12:46:00.001-07:00

Hey folks, thanks for your beautiful comments on my Balikbayan dress. I'm still waiting for the weather to warm up so I can wear it! Things have been harried here in the best possible way; things are just falling into place in every aspect of my life. However, it also means I haven't been getting a lot of sewing done and I'm still trying to keep up with my blog-reading after the Me-Made-March frenzy.

But I've had two things on my mind lately. The first is the irony of wanting to have a sustainable, quality wardrobe (promoted by things like Me-Made-March and my personal Fashion on the Ration challenge) and being an avid sewist who loves to create new things. They sometimes seem like the antithesis of the other. While one focuses on having less, the other is about creating more. Where do you stand on this?

Some like to think they're updating their wardrobe, piece by piece. A new beautiful piece displaces an old not-so-fabulous one, or perhaps new pieces are created to fill in the gaps of a current wardrobe. Others simply feel that there is always room in their closets for me-mades and still others that derive the most pleasure in the process of sewing (rather than the wearing of the garment) and that the accruing wardrobe is a manifestation of a crafty life.

I'm not sure where I stand on this, and perhaps it will shift with the season. But I began sewing seriously a year ago, when my life was very different, and I've now arrived at a place where I feel my wardrobe is more than sufficient. It could be more beautiful, but it does adequately equip me for my everyday life. Though I'll always fantasize about new things, I find myself now wondering how I can improve the things I already have.

Put another way: Perhaps the biggest benefit sewing has given me is not new items in my closet but a better sense of my own body and the skills and confidence to adapt existing items (garments and patterns). So I've become better at making choices about what cuts and colors flatter me and I've pared my closet accordingly. Rarely do I wear something anymore that I just hate and makes me feel self-conscious.

Another life change is that I've just bought my first bike in about a decade. When I lived in the capital, I bought a cheap roadbike with drop handlebars and zipped 1.5 miles to work through bumper-to-bumper traffic. But I'm so easily dissuaded. Mid-Atlantic humidity, the weight of my pack, the clumsiness of carrying the bike up and down stairs and locking it up. By the end, I left it on a pole to be picked for parts.

I'd sort of sworn off bike commuting after that. But this whole sewing-thing has delved me into a more Yes-I-Can mentality. Case in point, I've also discovered some staying power with the things I've always recognized as worthwhile pursuits but never had the tenacity for: Supporting local businesses, eating seasonally and locally, and composting. So why not bike commuting? I live in an awfully bike-friendly community and the commute to work is all flat with nearly no cars for 3 miles each way.

I'm posting this here partly because I believe in the power of public intention (and accountability). A year ago I wanted to be the kind of girl who could take ownership of her style through sewing. Today I want to take ownership of my body and my days this way.

And also true to my sewing tendencies, I thought about what is really going to make me comfortable? And is it quality and stylish to boot? So I bought a Public Bike J7, a locally designed, lightweight steel bike with European flair. And of course I needed a basket like I need pockets on everything.

But if I can stay on the road, this marks a life change and every change seems to find its way to my wardrobe, too. When I returned to working in an office, my wardrobe became much more formal. In fact, it was liberating: I could sew pretty things and actually wear them. And though I bought a bike that's meant to be ridden in skirts and dresses and heels, I'm guessing pencil skirts are off the table. Perhaps it's time to revisit my knit stash: clothes that are meant for movement.

What about you? Does your transportation method and/0r daily environment affect your wardrobe?

The Balikbayan Dress: Simplicity 2209

2011-04-11T07:28:00.000-07:00

The Filipinos have a word for its massive overseas population: Balikbayan. Indeed, it's a country whose biggest export is its labor and for decades, Filipinos have been seeking opportunities abroad. Ever travel internationally and wonder where all those people are going with their boxes? I'd bet it's Filipinos carrying balikbayan boxes home to their relatives, who often find it impossible to make that trip in reverse, even though the history of the Philippines is so distinctly tied to the United States.

I am a half-breed, a hapa, a Fil-Am, have you. The word may not apply to me, but to me it signifies a homecoming. I was raised largely by my Filipino family, who taught me strength. My grandmother was a dressmaker in the old country, and my grandfather—11 years her senior—first courted her by asking her to repair his GI uniforms. (Even though I assume the military has a service for that!) For it was the only way: She was suspicious of an "old man" and his intentions, but he'd been merely one of the millions of poor Filipinos who had whittled away his youth in Hawaii's sugar cane plantations and had found a bit of status after the Pearl Harbor bombing, having been recruited into the military. Staying in the military was the best a man with a fourth grade education could do to support a family post-war.

I like to think I got a lot of my Make Do and Mend leanings from them. They were never wasteful and still overly generous. My grandfather maintained a garden and we had nearly all our meals at home. My grandmother sewed every curtain and pillowcase and house duster on her treadle.

When they were in good health, they frequently returned to the Philippines. My cousin bought me this bit of fabric when she went back a few years ago. I made my first return two years ago. Me, a backpack and thousands of islands. It's beautiful country. According to surveys, it's the poorest, happiest country on earth.

As my sewing teacher said, a piece of fabric is full of possibilities until you cut into it. For years I used it as a makeshift tablecloth, perhaps once or twice as the wrap it was made for. At first I thought I'd make a bow dress like this one from verypurpleperson like this; an Indonesia native, she inspires me with her use of batiks. Then I thought I'd use the Colette Crepe, to take advantage of the print with a large, full skirt. But I finally decided on the new Lisette Passport dress, Simplicity 2209: The fitted bodice and slightly full skirt seemed a flattering cut for my rectangular frame.

Can I tell you what a joy this was to sew? First of all, all the pieces fit together, unlike my UP dress. This was so, so easy, so rewarding. Even though I lean toward very staid non-printed neutrals, and this dress if far from perfect, I have a feeling I'll wear this a lot in the warm months. It'll definitely look better when I've got a bit of a tan :)
Armed with Fit for Real People, I took my first real whack at tissue fitting a pattern and actually made a muslin of the bodice just to be safe. Short-waist adjustment? Check. Small bust adjustment? Check. Swayback adjustment? Check. Nipping in the neckline to make sure the front and back neckline lay flat? Check. I shortened the skirt by an inch and I even attempted my first (nearly) invisible zipper sans special foot.
There's still a wee bit of pooling in the back for swayback, but I'm utterly pleased the result. It really gives me the confidence to sew more dresses. I'd highly recommend this pattern.

And this weekend, we went to IKEA and bough me this little desk for the corner of my dining room. Hooray, everything's organized! I even have enough space to type my blog posts. :) Before, everything was spread on the floor or in various drawers. It was sort of a nightmare.

I remember standing in front of a mirror in an old apartment in a New England farmhouse attic on my undergraduate graduation day. I had hair to my hips and a cheap Charlotte Russe dress on and I said to myself, "So this is me at 22."

I am 31 today. This is my birthday dress, my homecoming dress, my Balikbayan dress. I'll bring it with me when I return to Hawaii next week, and I'll think of my family every time I wear it, regardless of where in the world I am.

Wishing you a beautiful Spring day, wherever you are. And lots of homecomings. x

Fashion on the Ration: Month 2

2011-04-02T14:09:00.000-07:00

Two months ago, I began my year long Fashion on the Ration challenge. For this year, I'm living on the UK wartime clothing ration that allowed each woman 66 coupons, which works out to roughly one-ish new garment a month. Second hand clothes are acceptable under a certain value. The focus is on a mindfulness toward quality and style.

Two months along! How am I doing? Well, with the promise of warmth makes me wish I had a limitless fabric budget so I can finally go full tilt into dress making.

March was another busy month. I did a bit of traveling for work, hosted a giveaway, participated in Me-Made-March and began to really consider what I like about sewing after my frustration with the UP dress. Part of the frustration of any fail for me can usually be chocked up to bad fabric choices. So I'm back in the classroom and took my first sewing class this month: Fabric Recognition and Care at Stonemountain and Daughter, up the street from me. I'm trying to inch in up from the wait list for tomorrow's sloper drafting class. So excited!

Anyway, the nitty gritty:

Made/Refashions

Finally finished the Uniform Project LBD.

Actually feeling a bit better about this. I've resolved a lot of the puckering with a serious press and a restitching of the hem.

These two quickies served as a salve post-UPD. Used self-drafted pants pattern for the cigarette pants from oversized thrifted stretchy pants, and like the original, used an elastic waistband. A testament to my thrill with it -- I immediately threw it in my suitcase and it became my go-to trousers for the next five days of travel. It doesn't wrinkle, and goes day to night.

The top is New Look 6965 (sewn twice before) using polka dot chiffon, leftover from the Tarra cardigan (below) and a mint silk yoke which is leftover fabric from when I was in my friend Charly's wedding two years ago. The yoke ripples a bit, but I so love the contrast between the color and the fabric. And the chiffon drape drape drape. I need to start working more fabric that does that, it's do flattering.

Patterns

In addition to the thrifted pattern below, JoAnns had their 99 cent Simplicity sale and I came back with these three.

Two Lisette patterns:

My buddy Debbie also has pattern love for Lisette (check out her new top). I was admittedly not initially impressed until I saw the glossy photos in the pattern catalog and the fabulous Flickr group. These are simple, chic pieces that are highly adaptable and flattering. They strike that nice balance, to me, between being stylish and contemporary without looking matronly or formal. If the fit is right, I have a feeling I'll be returning to them again and again.

And Simplicity 2579:

I never would have thought to love this pattern, but when I saw this dress made up on Sew Tessuti, I thought it might be the perfect warm weather dress; it really calls for a bit of print:

Bought

This book:

This bit of fabric from the thrift store (top), plus oversized khaki pants to make another pair with my self-drafted pants pattern. And a knit tee pattern.

Then two steals, a knit dress with a surplice top for $4 and leather sandals for $2. Can you tell I'm anxious for warm weather?

My class on fabric! Worth every penny, especially since I source so many of my fabrics at thrift stores or at massive fabric places where nothing is marked.

Repairs/Challenges:

Two quick repairs to make these two wearable:

Collar tweak. Not crazy about this cardigan, but I do love it over leggings.

Shift to Sheath, using Built By Wendy dresses. Worn twice this month, after having owned it for a year with nearly no wears.

Me-Made-March: Though I didn't document it daily, I still got a great deal out of it. It remains a great exercise in forgiving your me-mades by allowing them to become part of your daily wardrobe. I only flopped on two days—one deliriously stormy day and one insanely hot one.

Garments/shoes in ready-to-wear condition acquired: 7
Coupons spent: 6 (2 yards of wool for the UP LBD)
Coupons left: 60

I feel like I've been acquiring a lot even though I'm living on a clothing ration -- perhaps it's the fact that I have to 'fess up to it that I'm paying attention to what I actually buy!

Possibly on the sewing table:

This fabric given to me by my cousin after a family trip to the Philippines. It's a wrap so it's sort of batik-y and likely prone to wrinkling. I had been saving this for Colette's Crepe, but there's something about that dress that feels a bit precious to me (I think it's the bow). But I did see a lovely embroidered yellow linen that I thought would be perfect for the Crepe.

But the more contemporary shape of the Lisette Passport dress may just fit the bill. Likely the green for the bodice (since it's a more flattering color for me) and yellow on the full skirt. I want a birthday dress -- perhaps this'll be it! An homage to the old country, my family, and sewing :)

Happy sewing, all!

And the giveaway winner is ...

2011-03-28T21:05:00.000-07:00

I so loved reading your comments for the giveaway -- the gamut of your ideas on the Rooibos, your love for the men/boys in your life for the Negroni and the books that inspire you.

So with a little time with a random number generator...

The Rooibos goes to Claudia
The Negroni to A Sewn Wardrobe
And the 1948 sewing book to Annasoc. Ms. Anna -- Email me with your address! ustreetmove @ gmail . com.

Congrats to the winners!

Thanks to L'Atelier for pointing out Hetterson's new line. Handmade to order, quality materials, quality work.

I'm a goner for this dress:

I think when I envisioned the UP dress as my Go-To Dress, my judgment was off (of course this is obvious in hindsight). While I feel I've enough distance to fix its remaining issues, and I hope it become a dress I can use, I think this amazing piece from Hetterson is much closer to what makes a Go-To Dress for me.

The denim with the tan buttons makes a tailored dress casual, with retro elements for contemporary coolness. Love it, love it.

The Abundance of Le Stash

2011-03-23T22:03:00.000-07:00

Wow! Thanks for your incredible comments on my giveaway post. You can still enter through Sunday, March 27.

This is just a quick post to share a few collages I whipped up when I was feeling low about the combination of time and effort that went into making a (as-of-now) meh dress. It was interesting to read your comments—what bores and challenges you, what excites and energizes you.

Some were excited by the challenge of a difficult project, others needed the salve of something quick and fun, and still others utterly bored by making those boring-but-useful items in our wardrobes. I tend to fall in this last camp, being so obsessed with making things I'll actually wear regularly. So to get me out of my project burnout I've been thinking about all the things I could make without looking beyond my stash.

Instead of forcing myself to only sew wardrobe workhorses, I can visually see the things that I could sew depending on my needs: Something useful, something quick, something pretty, something challenging. And guess what? I've got lots of options.

These collages are merely representations and I threw a few shoes/accessories in there since I have to think before I buy, under my Fashion on the Ration challenge.

The Basics: Boring but Useful

Imagine all the outfits I could create using these basics, paired with colorful cardigans and accessories.

Gray dress: Uniform Project, completed, need re-working

Black cigarette pants: Self-drafted pattern, from plus-sized thrifted pants, completed, will post soon!

Black and cream top short sleeve or sleeveless: 1950s pattern, scoop neck, using two plus-sized thrifted tops

Beige full skirt: Late 1960s wrap skirt pattern, using thrifted fabric

Gray t-shirt: Built By Wendy Homestretch pattern, fabric in stash

Reversible circle skirt: Likely using this BurdaStyle tutorial, with fabric in my stash that's reversible—black and white polka dot on one side, plaid on the other

Straight coat with hood and toggles: Built by Wendy Coats & Jackets pattern, using brown thrifted tweed and lined with plaid in my stash

Holler! Did someone say color??

Would I be ready for summer or what? Color and print and legs, baby.

Sewaholic Pendrell blouse: Black floral fabric in stash

Colette Crepe dress: Yellow floral fabric gifted to me, from the Philippines (may not work, but it may!)

Colette Rooibos dress: Periwinkle fabric in stash (but I've got lots of ideas from folks entering the giveaway)

Strappy dresses (2): Self-drafted pattern—denim fabric in stash; refashion old maroon floral dress made for me on the Chinese/Myanmar border

Polka dot chiffon tank: New Look pattern, leftover blouse cut from the Tarra cardigan

Blue floral halter dress: 1960s pattern, using thrifted crepe skirt

Black and red knit dress with full skirt: Adapting Built By Wendy Homestretch pattern, fabric in stash

Red sailor shorts: BurdaStyle Ruby pattern, thrifted red twill

Purple slim pants: Self-drafted pattern, thrifted purple corduroy

Striped knit dress: Built by Wendy Homestretch pattern, fabric in stash

Colorful knit tops: Fuschia, navy and red knits in my stash, using Sewaholic Pendrell or Built By Wendy Homestretch patterns

I'm posting this more as a public testament, since there's so many times I say, If only I had this pattern or this fabric ...

What about you? Could you make things you want out of things you already own?

Welcome to Spring: A Giveaway for You, Your Man and Your Library!

2011-03-22T08:19:00.000-07:00

Hello folks, welcome to Spring!

I've been feeling a bit overwhelmed with my work and bummed about the semi-success of my Uniform Project LGD. Just drained overall. But then I left for a a conference and returned feeling recharged, a bit like Spring itself: the promise of warmth and growth and longer days.

Let's turn over a new leaf and think about all the possibilities on the horizon. I'm personally going to start putting my sewing energy into the things that excite me the most and going to work on streamlining the things that hinder it. And I'd like to offer you three possibilities in this Awesome Fabulous Spring Giveaway!

I'd like to spread the spring-love far and wide, so I will ship worldwide and entries will close at the end of Sunday, March 27 PST. I'll use a random number generator and it'll be in the mail to you before April :)

Here's what to do:
1. Pick the item you'd like to receive
2. In the comments, answer the accompanying question
3. Include your email address so I can contact you about your fabulous prize

And here are the three items.

1. For You: Colette Patterns Rooibos Dress

What says warm weather better than a short dress that shows off your clavicle and bare arms? And it has all the stylish retro flair of the tres popular Colette Patterns: tiny collar, distinctive pockets and piping.

This is by far by favorite Colette Pattern and I think one of its most under-appreciated patterns. I love all their patterns, but this one strikes me as closer to the 1960s and 1970s with the shorter length and a touch of youthfulness. The wonderful thing is it has so much range, it can go from classic colors of navy and white like this:

To this stunning, colorful number like this from Veronica Darling:

(She made it out of a tablecloth!)

So I couldn't be completely selfless in this venture. I'm going to whip this bad boy up and want to pick your collective brain.

Question: What colors/fabrics would you use to make this pattern you?

Seeking inspiration? Check out Colette's great Flickr pool.

2. Let's Hear it For the Boy

Another winner from Colette Patterns, the brand new Negroni.

As an admittedly selfish sewer who has a copy of this pattern and has not touched it in months (sorry, darling!) it's worth giving a little bit of our sewing- and blogging-energy to the men in our lives. The boy takes photos, listens to me chatter on about fitting problems over dinner, and has patiently waited as I make a "quick run to the fabric store."

Question: Tell us something special/unique about the man in your life you'd like to make this for.

I'd like to answer, too, because he deserves it. The man I'm going to make this for (eventually, I promise!) is my 10-year partner, son of an incredible seamstress of a woman. Through his example, I've learned the importance of elegance and fit in dressing, and patience and kindness in everything else. He's a voracious reader and loves taco trucks.

3. For the Bibliophiles

Practical Home Needlecraft in Pictures, 1948, London

I know this may not be as titillating as the two beautiful patterns above, but if you're a book collector, this is a gem. This was published while the clothing ration was still in effect in England.

And a peek inside:
Question: What sewing-related book do you find yourself returning to again and again and why?

Happy Sewing!

As Good As It Gets: The Uniform Project Little Gray Dress

2011-03-12T18:28:00.000-08:00

Man, do I have project fatigue. I feel like I've been working on this Uniform Project forever and have just really wanted to get it done so I can move onto something easier or, at least, indulgent. Part of it is I've been trying to reform my lazy sewing ways. I made a muslin, I thought through the instructions, used Gertie's princess seam tutorial, Tasia's button tutorial and used Colette Patterns tip on ironing. And I bought quality fabric.

So today, despite some lingering issues with the dress, I tacked up the hem and sewed on the buttons and am throwing it on for a date night with the boy tonight.

It's actually not that bad. I'm happy with the fit and the color and actually think if I can correct a few things, it could become a staple in my closet. Here's the front:

And the back (in the front, it's reversible):

What's the problem?

Well, if you notice I look wrinkly in the front. Despite all my efforts to press and to clip and notch the princess seams I've still got rippling in the seams. The blindstitched hem is also a bit ripply. Ugh. These photos showcase its imperfections well:

Also, I clearly haven't a clue how to do a hidden placket, because the way I did mine makes no useful sense. The placket (with the buttonholes ) folds into the garment. It's clumsy to button and unbutton and misaligns the dress if I dare arch my back, say.

So I welcome advice on how to fix these problems. In the meantime, friends, this is as good as it gets. Me and the UP dress need to stop demanding so much of each other for now. Once I figure out how to fix some of these basic problems, I'll also begin working on the detachable collar.

I really want a quick, easy project as a salve. It's got me thinking: Do you find yourself most challenged by garments you sew for fun or garments that you think will be workhorses in your closet? Part of the reason I think I've taken so much time with this—and thus have been getting so frustrated—is because I believed it could be a really really useful thing to have, as in weekly wear. Does all the extra attention pay off for you?

Wishing you sewing projects that give you energy -- not take it away!

Inspiration: Jackets

2011-03-11T09:46:00.000-08:00

Many of you know I love love love all the Built by Wendy books, mostly because they're so design-based, allowing you to consider endless possibility of variation on basic patterns. I received Built by Wendy Dresses on the eve of Winter, and now, Built by Wendy Coats & Jackets, on the verge of Spring. Since my sewing seems to follow the needs of the season, I'm not sure how much I'll dip into this book immediately, but I wanted to share this book that I've been obsessively reading.

Like her other books, this comes with three basic patterns: Fitted jacket at the waist, basic jacket at the hip, and a straight coat to the knee. These three patterns are used in 23 variations total.

Here's a version of the fitted jacket:
What I love is the additional options for fabric and notions:
It's these sort of options that get my mind going. For example, I've been eying a colleague's jacket that I find really classy and I bet I could recreate it with navy blue ultrasuede and a black and white herringbone collar.

Another fitted jacket variation:
Classy, reminds me of a Stewart & Brown coat I just saw on eCouterre.

And another:
Sigh. I've been wanting a blue coat.

Here's a variation on the basic jacket:

And one on the the straight coat:

All this jacket dreaming has got me thinking about this brown vintage fabric I've had in my stash and haven't known what to do with:

Now armed with a basic pattern, I'm thinking: A basic jacket with a hood lined with this flannel, big patch pockets, and closed with toggles. Oh, my classic collegiate leanings come forth. Could be great for spring!

You know, I've never been a jacket person. Cardigans have always served this function for me, as they're stretchy and portable. But I love how a coat during the colder months can really give me a tailored look no matter what I'm wearing beneath, and so my mind is veering toward jackets during the warmer months. The opening to the book really resonated with me:

Some people say the most important building blocks of a woman's wardrobe are a little black dress and a great white shirt. While I certainly couldn't live without either of those, I think the real key to always looking stylish is the right mix of great coats and jackets. After all, unless it's the hottest part of summer, you usually need something to cover you up, and you only look as good as your outermost layer. There's arguably no other garment in which function and fashion play such equally crucial roles.

What do you think? Is our outermost layer the key to pulling a look together? Are you a jacket person? What jackets do you find most useful?

Ready to Sew the Uniform Project LBD + Instructions

2011-03-06T12:20:00.001-08:00

I know that my Uniform Project LBD minutia may only be of interest to my fellow sew-alongers and any folks out there who are likewise struggling with the pattern, so non-sew-along related news first:

Thanks for all your thoughts on blog reading/commenting! I've tried out Knotty Gnome's suggestion of using the "Next" button coupled with Firefox and Google Reader as well as Bloglovin' as suggested by Alessa. Both majorly speed up and make my blog reading and commenting more efficient. Highly recommended! I'm particularly enamored with Bloglovin's mobile feature for reading blogs on my e-reader.

Though I haven't been keeping up with photos, I've been rockin' the Me-Made-March wears. Having a me-made coat and refashioned cardigan has really saved me in a pinch. I did manage to snap one photo on the first day. This feels a little like cheating, but here's a black knit dress I've had in my closet for about a year and never worn because it was massively A-line and I felt like I was drowning in it. Using the sheath pattern from Built By Wendy Dresses, I took in the waist about four inches, giving me a little bit of shape. Very simple but very useful refashion of silhouette:

In other news, I've been spending so much time with my Uniform Project pattern that I suspect we're sick of each other. A recap, this is what the dress is supposed to look like:

A little closer:

There seems to a difference on the button placket.

I wrung my hands over what kind of fabric to use and what color—visiting the fabric store at least four times. Finally, I decided on this beautiful gray fabric from this local store. It's 100% wool, thick with nice drape, and it's got flecks of brown in it. Sometimes I think this is the year I've discovered other neutrals than black and denim, and though I feel like I'm stockpiling gray in other areas (shoes, bag, etc) I do think this'll be incredibly versatile.

I've typed up the instructions to fill in what I felt was missing, hoping it will be helpful for those who do have the pattern, and also for myself, to remember everything I learned during the muslin stage.

General Thoughts on the Pattern:

This dress, though easy to sew, could really benefit from a muslin. The instructions are scant and fitting was a problem.
The measurements provided with the pattern reflect the finished dress size. Consider Butterick's ease chart when deciding which size to cut. I am a Bust 34 and cut a size small with a finished size of Bust 36, giving me two inches of ease. According to Butterick's ease chart, that's a close fitting dress. That sounds right to me, to be fairly fitted in the bust and the dress eases out to an A-line in the waist and hips
Though this dress is reversible (back to front), it's hard to make a dress fit perfectly with that sort of versatility. I opted for less than perfect fit rather than being limited to wearing the dress just one way.
This is a short dress—I suspect some folks will opt to lengthen the dress.

Here's a link to my original round-up of Uniform Project LBD info.

I realize, in hindsight, that I learned a great deal with sewing the Colette Patterns Lady Grey Coat, with help from Gertie's sew-along, as it was a princess seam coat with facings. A lot of what I'm providing in my version of the instructions are taken from those two sources.

Pretreat fabric
Cut pieces for shell
Cut pieces for facing
Cut interfacing
Apply interfacing to the collar
Staystitch edges:

Run a stitch just in the seam allowance (which is 3/8), between CENTER RIGHT and SIDE FRONT, CENTER LEFT and SIDE FRONT and the two CENTER BACK and SIDE BACK pieces.
Staystitch neckline, running a directional stitch toward the center on CENTER RIGHT, CENTER LEFT and the two CENTER BACK pieces. Ditto for the FRONT AND BACK FACING pieces.

PLEAT SIDE
1. Join SIDE BACK and CENTER BACK pieces. Clip inner curves and notch outer curves. Gertie did a great tutorial here . Press seam allowances open. (In the final stages, I'll press toward center and serge the edges.)

2. Sew BACK PLEAT to CENTER BACK pieces. Press seam allowances toward center.

3. Create pleat: stitch the two seams you just created together, right sides together, 2.5" from top. Measure 5 inches and stitch down another 2.5".

4. Tack down pleat: Directions tell you to add a 1.5 long horizontal topstitch across top and bottom of pleat opening, but I might handsew with individual stitches inside for the same effect. Press pleat.

BUTTON SIDE
5. Sew CENTER LEFT and SIDE FRONT and CENTER RIGHT and SIDE FRONT together, clipping and notching the princess seams as indicated in #1.

POCKETS/SIDE SEAMS
6. Sew four pocket pieces to SIDE FRONT AND BACK, right sides together, within the 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press away from shell.

7. Sew front and back side seams together, stitch in one continuous line from the top of the seam, around the pocket, to the bottom.

SHOULDER SEAMS/SLEEVE
8. Sew FRONT TO BACK at shoulders, right sides together

9. On SLEEVE, sew underarm seam, press and finish seam.

10. Sew sleeve into armsyce. With my pattern changes, I actually had to do a little bit of gathering on the sleeve head.

MAKING THE BUTTON PLACKETS, BUTTONHOLES + FACING
Update 3/12: After finishing my UP Dress, I would not make the button placket this way. It creates a folded flap on the inside of the garment but it's clumsy to button. I've yet to find a suitable fix, but, were I to do it over, would just make the placket with visible buttonholes rather than having them hidden in the flap.

11. USING FACINGS AS INCLUDED IN THE PATTERN:
I changed this a bit because the instructions left the neckline unfinished at the shoulder seam, unless covered by the collar. I wanted the whole facing to be attached at the neckline and turned under for a neat finish.

Stitch the FRONT LEFT and FRONT FACING together at CF, right sides together. Press and understitch SA to FACING
Stitch FRONT RIGHT and FRONT FACING together at CF, wrong sides together. Important: Because the FRONT RIGHT includes a button placket extension, CF is 2 1/4 inches in from the pattern piece.
Once stitched, fold in FRONT RIGHT extension (with a finished edge) toward the facing (to the wrong side of dress), overlapping slightly to hide raw edges. On front, stitch in the ditch to catch this folded extension.
On the extension, and mark the nine the buttonholes. Stitch the lower 8 buttonholes. The upmost buttonhole will be done after the facing is finished. Flip the facing to the right side of FRONT RIGHT. The right side of facing should be facing the right side of the FRONT RIGHT
Stitch the BACK AND FRONT FACING pieces together at the shoulder, right sides together.
Pin the combined facing to the entire neckline and stitch all the way around. Clip curves and understitch SA to FACING. Clip corners and turn the facing to the wrong side of the dress.
Finish the lower edge of the BACK FACING if you haven't already. Sew FRONT FACING down along princess seam hiding any raw edges, sandwiching the seam panel.
On the right side, stitch-in-the-ditch facing to dress at shoulder seam. Make the final, top buttonhole on RIGHT FRONT, through all layers.

COLLAR
12. Sew the COLLAR and COLLAR TAB (also known as the BUTTONHOLE FACING) right sides together. Repeat with the other identical pieces (one collar is interfaced). Notch and press.

13. Sew the two COLLAR pieces together, right sides together. Clip curves and press. Understitch SA to COLLAR TAB

14. Tuck raw edges inside open edge and press. Finish with a topstitch around the entire extension.

15. Finish collar with 9 1/2 inch buttonholes, 2 inches apart, starting at the corners. (Double check, on my muslin it looks like I'd need more buttonholes, but I also redrafted the neckline.)

16. On dress neckline, place buttons in spots according to the holes on the collar. Sew only through the facing not to show through the garment front.

HEMS / BUTTONS
17. Finish sleeve with a fold or a an overlocker. Turn up the sleeve by 2 inches and stitch by machine.

18. Finish the dress hem with a binding made from the facing fabric or bias tape 3/8 inches wide. Tack hem 2 inches by hand.

19.Top stitch for 2 inches along the CF corners on both sides (Not sure what this means, I assume it's to secure the hem/placket etc.)

20. Sew on the buttons!

_____________________________________________________________

This may be more confusing to folks, but I did want to include what I adjusted just in case others are having similar issues:

Pattern pieces I adjusted

The back was very, very roomy (not sure if this is the pattern or my torso, I've always had problems with fitting my back). The front, however, fit perfectly so I redrafted the CENTER BACK PIECE using FRONT LEFT (with the placket folded in + seam allowance). I traced the top 10 inches of FRONT LEFT, to allow me proper fit in the bust, and then I slashed the pattern piece and spread it to the width of CENTER BACK, created a new pattern piece.
Because I had to redraft CENTER BACK, I also had to redraft the BACK NECK FACING . It's worth noting that it didn't fit the original piece, either. I also had to redraft the COLLAR.
The facing in front feels like it may weigh down the dress (a problem when worn reversed, given my swayback), so I'm considering ditching it completely. Instead I'll widen the FRONT LEFT by the placket width—1-1/8 inch—and fold it in. I'll also alter my new BACK NECK FACING to create a FRONT NECK FACING
Check if your sleeves fit. The first time I tried they were much smaller than the armscye, but fit fine now that I've made adjustments.

Newest Muslin Photos

Improvements in the back. This is the old version:

The new: I seem to be a little misaligned. But doesn't that new pattern piece make a big difference?

With Sleeve

With all this pattern altering, it felt a little like I went down the rabbit hole, that I didn't remember what the original pieces were like and if they would've fit in the first place. But overall, I'm pleased with the fit of the dress. I'm still wrangling a bit with the collar, but I think I've got to sew this thing before it gets shelved indefinitely!

Happy Sunday!

How Do You Blog?

2011-03-02T08:29:00.001-08:00

Perhaps the more precise question is, how do you read and comment on blogs?

When I first discovered the blogging community about a year ago, I was utterly enamored with all the incredible blogs out there. And my sewing binge of last year, which really helped me go from beginner to advanced beginner, coincided with a part-time work schedule. There were no pains to sit at the computer or sewing machine for hours on end.

But now I manage two websites (among other things) and the last thing I want to do when I get home is to spend hours on my computer. I recently bought a Nook Color e-reader (envy 'cause my cousin had one, monkey see, monkey do) and I love curling up on the couch and reading the news, your blogs and surfing the web for whatever random obsession I've got at the moment. It's one of the great pleasures of my days.

Here's the problemo: It's very difficult for me to comment unless I'm on my computer with a real keyboard. I read several blogs each day on my e-reader (or sneaking in a few at work), saying I'll return to them on the weekend when I fire up the home computer and log a whole bunch o' comments, but the reality is that doesn't always happen.

So perhaps you can advise me. What do you do? Do you always read/comment from a computer? Your phone? An e-reader? Do you use an RSS reader to track all of your blogs, and if so which one? Google Reader has worked fine for my computer blog reading, but now I'm looking for alternatives. Is there one, for example, where I can comment in the RSS reader itself? Or does good ol' bookmarking work for you?

Anyway, I'd love your thoughts and thanks!

Your seemingly absent reader,
Ali

Fashion on the Ration: Month 1

2011-02-28T20:38:00.000-08:00

A month ago, I began my year long Fashion on the Ration challenge, inspired by Susannah's challenge of the same name. For this year, I'm living on the UK wartime clothing ration that allowed each woman 66 coupons, which works out to roughly one-ish new garment a month. The focus is on a mindfulness toward quality and style.

February was a whirlwind month, a juggling act of a full-time job, a part-time job and a part- part-time job. There were great professional successes and terrible family emergencies. Needless to say, I didn't get much sewing done, but how'd I do otherwise?

Bought

I've got the zeal of the newly converted (let's see how I do six months down the line!). First, I bought this book, recommended by Heart Handmade:

Sucking Eggs: What Your Wartime Granny Could Teach You About Diet, Thrift and Going Green ... by Patricia Nicol compares modern day life to wartime living, providing a fascinating glimpse into forced austerity which she claims had many merits. There's much about this book I'd like to share with you this year, but briefly, it was eye-opening to read about austerity as an imposed regulation by the government, which fettered over the coupon-price of women's undergarments and whether sanitary napkins would be rationed.

For the public, it was a mark of pride and patriotism to show creativity and ingenuity with your slim coupon stash, representing two-thirds of what an average woman would buy in peace time. There were Make Do and Mend Sewing Centers for women who wanted to drop in and brush up on their sewing skills, since necessity dictated it.

I also enjoyed this book (I have many from the series):

GettyImages: 1940s. Really, if you were to read these small photography books—one is available for every decade of the century—it would give you a wonderful overview of history.

Sewing-wise, I realized I really needed to up the ante in the quality department. The two things I've consistently overlooked is fabric choice and fit, so I bought these two books.

More Fabric Savvy by Sandra Betzina

Though I've yet to use it as it just arrived, I bought it because it has detailed info for each type of fabric, from cutting, interfacing, needles, presser feet, seam finishes etc. I've also been visiting fabric stores to get better at fabric recognition.

Finally! The oft-recommended book for fitting.

In addition to books, I went a little crazy in the cardigan department. My neighbor was moving back to Spain and was selling these lovelies for $2 each, way below my thrifting threshold.

Cardigans and shoes are sometimes the only flashes of color in my outfits and three of these have already become standbys. They've also helped me understand what kind of fit I'm seeking in a cardigan -- I really don't want one that's super figure-hugging, it's not flattering. I may alter one of them using Casey's "how to refashion a cardigan" tutorial.

I hit up the thrift store on President's Day for the 50% off sale, snagging a fleece robe and these three items, a cute retro-ish looking red cardigan (much nicer than the photo! Inspired by Kate Spade).

The others are a very large cream polyester blouse and a black Eileen Fisher linen tunic that I snagged for a planned refashion.

Refashions

Speaking of refashions, I did this lovely with lace from Debbie:

Then I tried to use the legs of my self-drafted pants pattern to alter the fit of existing trousers and also fix the facing on last year's refashioned blouse using Simplicity 3263.

Though it looks sort of okay in the photo, and it's definitely the style I'm going for, the pants were a bust. I tried to refashion a pair of men's pants -- no hip and butt curves, low crotch, etc. So I think I'm going to combine my self-drafted pattern with the BurdaStyle Ruby Shorts pattern (which I've sewn twice) and cut up a very large pair of women's black pants. Cigarette pants, here I come!

I love the shape of the blouse above: The scoop collar, the front and back darts. Here's the original pattern:

It really needs a small bust adjustment to fit correctly, so armed with Fit for Real People I plan on refashioning the cream and black thrifted tops above using this pattern. I can't imagine anything more versatile to have in my closet.

I've also begun the Uniform Project sew-along with Debbie and Kristin. We're in the muslin stage. Incredibly exciting dress, very frustrating construction.

Patterns

Like tops, I've been thinking about versatility in the skirt department. I keep mentally coming back to the one I put on my work capsule/inspiration board, this blue crepe number, Valentino Roma Pleated Skirt, ~$900 retail. It's the flat waist, the versatile color, the fullness at the knee, and the bit of rock-n-roll embellishment on an otherwise plain skirt:

So I bought this pattern, from 1943. In 1940s sizing, I'm a perfect 16 (34-28-37) and that just rocks my world. By the 1950s and 1960s, I would've needed a smaller waist or larger boobs to fit a pattern out of the envelope.

Repairs

Mary jane dreaming (So Toria's fault). These were an old pair I loved, bought for $7 at a thrift store three years ago and have had the heel tips replaced once. They'd worn down again, so I found a local cobbler and had the heel tips replaced and a sole guard added to give it a bit of longevity. Total cost:$25.

Challenges:

Finally, I've signed up for Zoe's Me-Made-March challenge.

'I, Ali or the wardrobe, reimagined, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-March '11. I endeavour to wear at least one me-made or refashioned garment each day for the duration of March 2011'

I'd originally planned to up my commitment from Self-Stitched September to two garments, but given the difficult previous month, my planned sewing, and an East Coast business trip, I opted for just one. And I likely won't be posting photos daily but will try to take photos and perhaps share with you my best/worst outfits each week.

Garments/shoes in ready-to-wear condition acquired: 9
Coupons spent: 0
Coupons left: 66

How was your February?

Fabric Scraps! How to Use Them

2011-02-23T09:13:00.000-08:00

Last week, I asked you what you did with your fabric scraps and I was blown away by your answers! Those of you who live in the UK have textile recycling options (I'm envious!), but I also wanted to compile all the creative ways that you can use fabric scraps for those of us who have yet to find that option.

Camelia Crinoline uses them for pockets, facings and sew-in interfacing.
Sigrid, Willy Wagtail, Debbie and Janice mention that fabric scraps are great for stuffing in pillows, cat toys, dog pillows, homemade dolls and for making doll clothes
Sherry and Lizajane say they're great for art activities in school classrooms.
Misafir (Ruth) Geldi chucking less than half a meter/yard, and uses the larger pieces to make bias strips and selvedge strips to be used as seam stays.
Sapotesews has a rubric for deciding how big a piece she'll use, using a waistband piece. "if it's at least that big, it can be useful, but if not, out it goes."
Alessa pointed out this tute from Colette Patterns on how to make a continuous loop bias tape.
Knotty Gnome uses the scraps for quilting and Darci just made this duvet cover. The teeny weeny scraps, Darci says, go to Scrap Action.
Katie sometimes uses the pieces as waxing strips for waxing her eyebrows.
Sewing Princess used her scraps to stuff a tailor's ham and seam roll. She's curious what to do with past-their-prime stockings -- any tips?
Sabrina Clementine uses them to make fabric labels for the things she sells.

I'm inspired. I'm sure you'll see home of these things manifest in this blog this year.

The Uniform Project LBD is coming along slowly. I've ditched the center back piece entirely, the culprit in my opinion and have replaced it with the left front piece for a better fit. I'm actually pretty psyched about this dress now that I'm over one hurdle. The next hurdle: Figuring out how to sew a concealed button placket.

Happy sewing, all, and thanks for these awesome ideas!